midiwall

When you do that, remember that you'll have to T off of the boost port since you should have a line there now running to the FPR. This is Gadget's infamous "free FMU" mod which Toyota started adding into their own docs.


Hmmm.. yeah. I was confused for a bit as well, but the end result became a MUCH cleaner setup under the hood for all the vacuum lines. I was able to get rid of a lot of crap. For example, ya' know the metal piping that acts as heat resistant lines at that back of the engine compartment? All that's gone...


I would LOVE to do it, but thanks to a cat, my digital camera took a 3' fall to a tile floor and is toast. I bought a new one (go eBay!) but I won't see it for a week. I'll spend some time tonight diagraming something for you in Photoshop.


It's quite possible you missed a line, or have one in the wrong spot. One of the key things that I hear people get confused on is that white valve. If it's installed backwards, you'll get lousy performance.

For me, there's a HUGE difference in 2nd gear - the pull is awesome all the way up through redline. There's also a great push from 1800-2200 in 1st. It's _right_ there, no lag or anything.


Yeup.. I know the lines well.

The VSV line actually gets replaced and plugs into one of the two side-by-side brass fittings on the right side of the housing (as you face it from the front). It took me a few minutes of scratching to figure that out.

The PS lines have always confused me... ("always" = while I was messing with the ISR mod and the Airaid tube) Right now, I have them T'd together and both hooked up to a fitting on the Airaid.

I'll work on a diagram late tonight. I'll post it before daylight comes your way.



Dr. Z dude! Thanks for the kudos! I woudn't have gotten to this point without your encouragement! (can I send you the Visa bill? )

Anyway... I've only got about 30 minutes driving on it. The roads are wet and slick so I haven't had any time to really play. To answer you straight, the SMT is still tuned for the N/A setup.

I'm heading up to FunRunner's tomorrow to setup DSL and one of the side effects of that trip (about 70 minutes) will be to re-tune the SMT.



Jamie dood! One of the things that pushed me over the edge to doing this was a good bit of talking with Dr. Z about how far we can run out the SMT to get fuel into the engine and/or bring down the timing. He cited a couple of folks running the SMT on an S/C'd system that are fine without the mods, and I was willing to be the local guinea pig (again!).

I won't play it stoopid... If it looks like I'm pushing the laws of probability, then I'll be at URD.com with Visa in hand ordering up injectors and a Walbro.



Thanks all!

shazaam

congradulations man!

Dr. Zhivago

You're welcome and I think its awesome that you tackled this yourself!
No.
Ooookay. I take it you filled up with premium at least? Enjoy!

G

midiwall

YES! In fact, I "planned" the install to the point that I was down below 1/4 of a tank left. My first ride was to the petrol station for some 92 octane.

midiwall

And...


This is kindofa' hack, but I think it should work for ya'...


(click for a larger pic)



A couple of notes:

• The green line is a fitting that's on the inlet of the S/C housing. I capped it off with a vinyl(ish) cap piece that you can get from an auto store.
• The filled circle in the TB is meant to show a round diaphragm that's mounted on the TB. That line used to run to one of the lines from the "metal pipe grouping" at the back of the engine compartment. I traced through the piping and replaced it with the long rubber tubing included in the kit.
• I THINK that the PS (power steering) connections are wrong, but they've always worked like that for me. i.e., it doesn't really make sense (to me) to tie these together and put them to the same vacuum source. I'd love to know what their purpose is and where they should really go.
• On a stock engine, the FPR runs to a brass tube that shows up at the front of the block. I pulled out that tube and did the "Free FMU mod" which is to connect the FPR to the boost port. NOTE: This is the connection you'll need to "T" when you add a boost gauge.
• The "Breather" line also used to run through the "metal pipe grouping". I used the larger hose that came with the S/C kit to re-cut this line and run it direct from the breather to the intake tube.

One thing that's not shown is the line that runs to the fitting at the bottom of the TB. That's the line that needs the one-way valve in it. Cut the line, and install the valve with the black mark towards the inlet (TB) side. Reconnect the line to the TB and you're good to go.


I think that's it... Like I said above, installing the S/C really cleaned things up under the hood in terms of vacuum lines. I used to have a number of things T'd or extended, and it's quite nice to have it all gone.


GOOD LUCK!

midiwall

!!!

WT

I'll take it LOL actually reviewing your, you did exaxtly as I did and I think mine all done right now. nice to have a drawing of someone elses experience to confim my guesses last night
Yeah thoose hoses from the PS was the ones that caused me the most confusion cause the diagram in the instructions didn' help to much about them but did help with the others. as for the "Free FMU Mod" the instructions covered that fine and is did well about the check valve under the TB.
Well thank for taken the time to post this drawing up, once it warms up the boost gauge gets T in, since I plumbed and wired it up last wekend.

midiwall

!!

So... you capped that brass fitting as well (the "green line" above)? I was thinking that I would run one side of the PS pump to it, and the other side to the intake tube.

Hmmm.... I'll have to hunt some more to see what other folks did.


Have fun today!

WT

Actually taken a closer look more at it with the laptop out by the truck under the hood I didnt cap it. I followed the drawings in the instructions about that one going from the TB to where you have capped at on your drawing I did cap the one line that was comming from the round canister under the front wheel area (size of coffee can) that had what looked like a inline check valve in it up by the passenger side rear. It was one of the ones like you said that was left over after removing the metal tubbing parts. I also put my T in for the boost guage today not sure If its workign right once started it read -20 looks liek vacum but when you get on the thottle it will go up past 0 to about 7-8 lbs dependong on how hard you mash on the gas pedal
Will say after taken more of a ride with it today its pulling better and also give a great wine when you step on the pedal
Well let me know if you find out any more. I also did T the 2 from the PS to the air tube since I have a K&N setup on mine and not the stock one.

WT

This is what I followed for the most part except the PS lines were T to the airtube and I caped the one line from a round canister under the drivers side fender that didn't seem like it was in any documentation (have no idea what it is).. Also mine is a 96 and a 4th gen supercharger, don't recall what year yours is.

Mad Chemist

Congrats Mark! Now you can offroad really fast, only hitting every 2nd or 3rd obstacle!

midiwall

Ahh... Yeup, that diagram was in the back of the install docs. That's basically what I ended up with.

Oh! I have some input on the PS routing...

The vacuum switch is basically a warm-up feature. You (we!) need to run one line to either side of the throttle body otherwise it's useless. So... One side goes to the fitting on the airbox, the other side goes to the fitting on the S/C next to the TB.


Well, truth be told, I was bein' sneaky.. I also got mine from Billy. I had it ordered before I posted up that thread.

smr4runner

Congrats Mark,
Must be nice to be blown!
What kinda of deal was Billy giving? Should I even ask?

midiwall

Thanks Mike!

I think Billy's out of them now, but he was selling renamufactured units for $1250 shipped. Here's the original thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/supercharger-_blow-out_-44758/