lee

also, the basslink's manual says "max current draw: 12A"... 12amps i assume.

bah! in all honesty, im now confused!!

yote4x4

well i was looking for wattage..but it doesnt matter. haha FINAL VERDICT: youre dont need a cap, have fun blasting ur beats without fear. Your electrical system can handle it without a problem. Use the $100 for something else, like your lift or tires =)

lee

truth is: i wouldnt have put $100 even if i "needed" it

i need a lift and tires more than i need headlights that dont dim!

how's that for priorities?

yote4x4

haha on yotatech, i believe that those priorities are in the correct order

frankenrunner

yeah, you got your priorities right, lee, but allow me the indulgence of a bit more explanation...

you see, speakers are not simply resistive loads(continuous, sustained wattage or amperage)&/or, they don't just sit there.
instead they are complex & reactive, drawing disproportionately large currents in reaction to transient voltage signals that they pick up from the two to four channels, as well as the harmonic variances within those channels, that your tuner has which is all cycled through the amp.
because music is dynamic, with multiple instantaneous power demands, the speaker is constantly being bombarded with short transient voltage drive signals(pushing) & constantly drawing short "in-rush"(pulling) currents in ever increasing &/or diminishing cycles as the song progresses through it's track.
the overall long-term voltage & power draws are not significantly higher than those of a resistive load, but at any given moment, short term peak currents(like when the bass "hits" or a chord is "struck") must be delivered far in excess of the average demands in order to accurately reproduce the signal being sent to it.
if these cannot be supplied by an amplifier, distortion & reduced dynamic range result, which means you're both missing out on all that your sub could be doing for you & forcing the amp & speaker(s) to strain to replicate the signals being sent to them for your listening enjoyment, & "straining" for any electrical component is never good.
o'kay, so say that you're not overtaxing your vehicle's electrical recharging system with the set-up & wattage requirements that you have, but what about those self same components themselves?
just some food for thought, the choice about what you do is, as always, up to you as it is, afterall, your system in your vehicle.
later,

-f-

lee

thanks, thats great info. i think this thread may help someone in the future.

2001Millrunner

I have 1 12"Fosgate in the back and have swapped out my stock speakers with Infinity References....still lacking mids, I wish we had room for 6x9s

lee

this trucks cabin is like the best sound chamber ever

AustEEk113

I see it time after time people writing this up in sounddomain. You do not, (I Repeat) DO NOT WANT A CAPACITOR! Checkout sounddomain.com, they'll help you out. If anything you want to do something called the "Big 3". It's cheaper and far more efficient than a capacitor. It's a sticky on one of the forums.

frankenrunner

yes, as "AustEEk103",(humh, seems like i'm either agreeing w/you or against you, huh?)suggests, the "BIG 3" is a good idea(i've done it myself, but still got a CAP anyway).
i've tried to pass along this bit of wisdom by explaining the necessity for the "capacitor" purely from a components perspective &/or it's requirements & why, so let me try the plain sense version:
a car's battery at any given time, be it from start up or merely driving, has a continuous demand placed on it to provide power for numerous operational components & accessories(even with a "ground" upgrade to improve charge recovery), not to mention, you.
factorying in to that an aftermarket stereo system, higher wattage speakers, amplifier(s) & subwoofer(s), etc., etc., will obviously, place an even larger demand on the battery for it to provide power to them.....a "capacitor" only has to provide power for the amp, period.
all in all, it's your ride & your choice.

trying to help,

-f-