I've had my truck for almost 7 years now, and I'm starting to have an issue with warping rotors. Basically, I just put a brand new set of Brembo rotors on the front, about 4 months ago. I've put about 2k miles on these rotors. I've been a lot nicer to the brakes since I got the rotors, because I didn't want them to warp. I've noticed in the last few weeks that they are already starting to warp. I can feel the difference in the pedal, and the inconsistency of the braking coming off of the highway.

Just had some new tires put on the truck, so I told the shop to take a closer look and look for any issues in the braking system, or anything else that could cause rotor warping. They found nothing.

When this truck was my primary vehicle, I used to drive the living hell out of it. I didn't care how hard I slammed on the brakes, and the first set of rotors were on there for 4+ years before I replaced them, now they're warping after fewer than 2k miles, and since it's my ternary mode of transportation, I hardly take it anywhere. Plus, like I said, I've been very nice to the brakes since I got the new rotors on. Additionally, I'm running ceramic pads, which, in theory, should create less heat.

Any ideas on why this is happening? Thanks!!

 

here you go buddy, read this

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

 

strange. Are your rotors cross drilled and slotted? if so the rotors on the 4runners are thin and build up heat quick if they get hit by cooler liquid they will warp if they have not been broken in yet. The metal is to thin the rotor will get heat warp and cool down in a slightly different shape. Also depends on the type of metal usually a steel alloy. also depends on how the manufacture treats the metal cryoed, heat cycled, etc. 4Runners are notorious for poorly designed front breaks. I had EBC that were slotted and dimpled and used the EBC green stuff pad and had great breaks. I also would only get rotors that are slotted or dimpled. now that being said I have a 2007 speed6 and have Rotora slotted and cross drilled rotors with Rotor ceramic H2 pads and have not had a single problem. I drive that car hard and sometimes and it is exposed to freezing snow and water and the breaks have never failed or warped. I believe Rotora is a better company than Brembo. Brembo became a staple in breaks long ago got to big and quality went down just my opinion. But you are not the first to have that problem. also it could have been how you broke them in you said you too it easy so probably not.

 

Rotors are not drilled or slotted. My understanding was to stay away from those. I have a 2008 Evo, and the brembo rotors on there are flat. No holes, no slots.

Also, I notice that it gets progressively worse, as it did with my last set, so it's not like it happened overnight or after a couple of drives. Most of my trips are only a few miles.

Authority, I'll give that article a read. Thanks!

 

ive had this before happen, i believe one of your calipers are faulty thus not allowing the couple of millimeters so your rotors can breath so it can cool not and not continually warp

new calipers maybe?

 

THIS was my thought. That's why I had the shop check out the calipers while they had it up on the lift swapping the tires. How would one tell if a caliper is faulty, without looking at uneven wear on the pads?

Also, another thing to point out, is this is the second set of rotors on the same pads. I bought rotors and pads about 2.5 years ago, and then recently replaced the rotors, but not the pads. There's plenty of meat left on them. Not sure if that makes any difference at all.

Maybe I should get a second opinion from a shop that specializes in brakes?

 

Get a new set of pads when changing rotors. Also, doing this is very easy. Should DIY. I always use Autozone Duralast rotors, because they come with a 2 yr warranty. If they warp, you get new rotors. I mated that with their ceramic pads and have had zero problems. Also, another thing to check is your rear drums. If they're not adjusted properly, it puts lots of extra strain on the front brakes, which could have led to warped rotors.

And good call on the slotted/drilled rotors. When will people learn they don't help cool, but only make you poorer?

Case in point.

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...d.php?t=141567

EDIT: Oh, and make sure to bed the new pads to the rotor correctly!

 

yah i kno what you mean, thats why i wanna take this chance to kinda give insight, i have a ASE license in underbody and brake system lol alot of my customers have had issues like this, normally hondas.

There really isnt a certified test to test out calipers, i suggest changing your brake fluid.

Brake pads can cause rotors to warp, but rotors can also cause the brake pads to glaze over than can mess up your rotors.

 

I would do it myself, but don't the wheel bearings need to be repacked when replacing the rotors? Or do they just slide off once the calipers are off?

 

It's real simple. No messing with wheel bearings. Just take off the caliper (2 bolts) and they slide off. Pads are simple, too. I believe there is a good write up on 4x4wire. Post up if you need help.

 

If you have to buy new calipers, you might as well do the Tundra Upgrade

 

no you dont have to take out the wheel bearings, just remove the 2 bolts and the caliper comes off, i suggest buying some brake cleaner too

take your time cuz you dont want to make any mistakes doing your brakes believe me

like cakalak han said post up if you need help

 

o yah that too like okie81 if your gonna get new calipers might as well upgrade to the tundra ones good idea Okie81 hahah

up to you now

 

Well jesus... That's what I get for trusting the Chilton I have... It has all this crap in there about pulling the wheel bearings apart to get the rotors off, so I decided I didn't want to mess with it. How lame is that? I'm familiar enough with braking systems to know that an air bubble can screw you, lol. I always do my own work on my motorcycle, and have had my share of issues.

Thanks for the Tundra upgrade info. If I replace calipers, I'll undoubtedly do that upgrade!

 

I asked Autozone about the warranty on rotors and they claimed you had to have a mechanics statement regarding the problem, then they would replace them. I said F___ that! I've been happy with my EBC and my green pads.

 

OMG!

Well let's think about it. Dragging caliper creates heat. Heat overheats rotor. Rotor bad. I'd say you need to see how hot your rotors get after driving it.

 

Read further and you'll see it was my Chilton telling me that...

But how hot is too hot?? I have a temp gun that I could check them with after a normal drive

 

Without any hard driving they should be less than 212F for sure. And consistent on both sides. Careful with IR gun, it's not awful good reading reflective surfaces.