I ran a 255lph pump in my Eclipse and I did a complete rewire with 10g wire since the stock 18g wire was way to small;I ran a power wire (with 30A fuse) from the battery to a relay spliced into the stock pump wiring and that cured the problem.

The 190lph pump also drew more than the stock DSM wire would safely handle and I'm wondering if the stock Toyota wiring might be kinda small and could it cause problem down the road let's say with a blower upgrade?

 

This come up before mostly with stock pumps. It usually ends up being a fuel pump relay that has gone bad.

Gadget

 

Wow, I'm glad finally people are posting the same issue that I have been having for past 4 months since I installed the kit. I have put up with it for while but I would like to find out how to fix it.

I also changed the EFI relay under the hood and it didn't make any difference.

Cheers.

 

There is another fuel pump relay that is the one that most likely giving you the problem. I have been told it is somewhere in the dash.

Gadget

 

3.4runner,

Please keep me posted if you find a solution for this and I'll do the same. Also if I don't stop the surging by turning the key to on position, I some times get check engine light code P0100 when I start the truck again.

THX

 

Thanks Gadget, but I thought "derrick92130" posted earlier that "None of the fuses or relay changes made any difference at all." Do you recommend that I go ahead and changed it anyway?

Cheers.

 

okay, my truck has been doing this every single time I shut it off, but I think I'm narrowing down the problem.

The EFI relay under the hood is the one that keeps clicking, and actually gets quite hot while its doing this.

The second relay for the fuel pump circuit is in the drivers footwell, left lower corner immediately behind one of the bolts holding the trim on.
I've tried substituting relays from other circuits (fog, heater, power outlet, etc...) and the fuel pump will shut off properly only once after using a new relay in the footwell location. On subsequent shutdowns, the efi relay will click and the fuel pump will continue to run as before.

I am not getting any sort of CE light or error codes so far.

Derrick, I'm curious on what changes you've made to your FTC. Can you post what truck configuration you have...maybe I can get a copy of your current map and see if that has any effect. I have a dual-cat CA spec 99 4Runner with manual trans.

I can only think of a few possibilities explaining this problem
1) the Walbro fuel pump is drawing to much current and somehow causing a relay to stick in the "on" position--maybe an upgraded relay that can handle more current will fix the problem?
2) the FTC is bleeding some power back into the wiring after turning the truck off, which is allowing the relay to stick in the "on" position. (this could possibly explain why the relay stops clicking and the fuel pump turns off eventually).

Any other thoughts on this?
I'm going to try tapping the FTC into a different circuit and will see if that changes anything.

 

I so very much doubt it is going to be the FTC or its maps.

Have you thought about the ignition switch?

Have you installed a new fuel pump relay like what fixed the other people's problems?

Don't go rewiring stuff and replacing fuel maps until you try what has worked for other people with the same problem in the past, please...

Gadget

 

OKAY, the problem is FIXED!!
Gadget, I tried using relays from other circuits as above...only worked for one shutdown

I have no explanation for why replacing the relay only works for one shutdown, and I have no idea why only a very few people are experiencing this issue.
But, I do have a solution that works perfectly for me.

The problem, as far as I can tell, arises from splicing the power supply for the FTC into the B+ power line for the stock ECU. The FTC must have some sort of capacitor or other means of storing charge, because when turning the ignition off I'm pretty sure that some power bleeds back into that circuit.
Looking at the factory wiring diagram (for the 99 4Runner), ECU pin E16 is also on the same circuit as both EFI relay and driver's footwell relay...if enough power bleeds back from the FTC in theory the relays could be tripped, accounting for the fuel pump staying on after shutting the truck off.

Seems like possibility #2 in my previous post may be true. To fix the problem, I removed the FTC power tap from ECU pin E16 and used a test lead to an active circuit in the driver's footwell fuse box which is powered during cranking and whenever the truck is on.
Upon shutting the truck off, the fuel pump immediately shut off. No relay clicking, no 2-3 second delay even. Instant fuel pump kill, I repeated it several times and it seems to be a solid fix.

I have a feeling that only people with 99-00 4Runners might experience this issue...other years and tacomas have different ECUs and may have a different circuit for the fuel pump relays. Who knows for sure...all I know is that this seems to be working, I just need to make a more permanent connection and then put everything back together.

I think I may put a diode in-line with the tap into ECU pin E16, this splice point was very convenient and a diode should act like a one way circuit, hopefully preventing any current bleeding back from the FTC.

Edit: Just to make sure, I reconnected the FTC power tap to the ECU and sure enough, the EFI relay clicking and fuel pump surging reappeared after shutting the truck off. Instantly cured when powering the FTC from the different source.

 

When I bought my Gen 2 Yota I had the same problem and came to the same conclusion .. EFI relay and circuit open relay were bad. I replaced one at a time but, didn't resolve the problem. Replaced both, and all was ok. Has worked for over 60k miles . Circuit open relay was located under the dash on Gen 2 Yota.

 

If that is the fix then a diode should work just fine to stop that from happening.
Make sure to get one of proper size for the duty it will see.

 

Great news, Could you do a write up on this? It would be great to fix this finally.

THX.

 

Well, not sure if this is worthy of a writeup. Only a couple people seem to be affected by this. Still putting my money on 99-00 4Runners judging by the wiring diagram.

Here is the simple fix (for a 1999 4Runner): Remove the FTC power tap from ECU E16, and put a new tap into ECU E2 (black wire with blue stripe). This taps into a power circuit from the 10Amp ignition fuse that leads to the stock ECU--it is not powered when the truck is off, and it is only powered when in the 'on' and 'start' position...and it is not part of the fuel pump circuit. This fix is working perfectly, and is faster than hunting for a diode to splice in.

Each model year may have different ECUs and pin-settings. I would double check using a multimeter before you tap into the new wire. You want a wire that is hot during cranking and when the truck is on, but you want it to be off when the truck is off (to avoid battery drainage).

Gadget, you might to keep this in mind in case this issue surfaces with future URD customers.

 

I have looked over the wiring schematic book and I can not see any reason why this would be happening. The only thing different on the 99 is a separate ignition switch lead to the ECU, but I am at a loss to see how that would create this issue.

We have several kits out in 99 4Runners and I have been in touch with a few of them. They do not report the same issue you are having.

So, I am at a complete loss to understand why you are having this problem. Please don't think I am trying to convince you the problem does not exist as clearly you are having an issue, I just do not understand why.

If this ever does happen to another customer in the future, with your help we know how to resolve it, THANKS!!

Gadget

 

I replaced the relays in the EFI relay in the fuse box under the hood and the relay in the interior compartment in the footwell with no change (didn't even work for one try for me). I never did try to replace the ignition switch, but like I said the problem disappeared (so I thought) and I stopped searching.

My wife mentioned that she heard the fuel pump surging again yesterday when she took it out for errands, so I will check it out today and see if it is back.

 

3.4runner,

Do you think that 2000 4runner pin-settings are as same as 1999 runners? If so I could do it this weekend and fix it for good.

Cheers.

 

Sorry, can't be sure. Your best bet is to use a multimeter and test the voltage of that pin when the key is in the "off", "on", and "start" positions. There seems to be a lot of variability in the ECUs of our trucks from year to year, but the FTC instructions are identical for 99 and 00 4Runners--that only means that the B+ wire (ECU E16) is at the same pin location for both years...can't be positive about the rest of the pin settings.
Maybe someone can send you a copy of the wiring diagram schematic for the 2000 4Runner? I don't want you to end up frying your ECU or something.

 

So, did you mod fix the problem?

Gadget

 

My wife was right and my 2000 4Runner definitely had the same problem again. My harness and wiring was the same as described in the thread by 3.4Runner. I pulled the multimeter out and started probing. I didn't realize that the original power source identified in my FTC install page is actually a power source coming OUT of the ECU (E16) as verified by no power with the key in the on position while the block connector was disconnected from the ECU. The IGN power source on E2 is now connected to my FTC unit and I have not gotten any surging on the fuel pump since the change (about 200 miles since Saturday AM).

 

Nice to see that the fix is working on the 2000 year as well. BayRunner, I'm guessing that you can use the same pin (ECU E2) and fix the prob--I'd still use a simple multimeter or voltmeter to make sure that the wire is hot when you want it to be.

The walbro fuel pump on my 99 has been working flawlessly since the initial fix.