VSC / TRAC defeating - is anyone closer?
02-01-2005, 02:38 PM
#241
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If the trac/vsc systems use the master and brake cylinders to control wheel rotation, then it seems logical the ABS would be tied in with this, and would be affected by any modifications to the VSC/TRAC systems.
I don't think anyone here faults Toyota for developing these two systems, but rather, that the manufacturer does not give the option to disable these setups. Many, many other cars and trucks out there come with some form of traction and stability control, but then also have switches to disable should conditions warrant.
Thank you for the thumbs up. I hope we keep the momentum.
Andreas
02-01-2005, 03:15 PM
#242
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Brendon,
What's the story? Have you "broken the code" or havin' fun with us? I need to know if I can stop looking at Toyota's colorful wiring diagrams!
Bob
What's the story? Have you "broken the code" or havin' fun with us? I need to know if I can stop looking at Toyota's colorful wiring diagrams!
Bob
02-01-2005, 04:33 PM
#243
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Originally Posted by emplusten
Brendon,
What's the story? Have you "broken the code" or havin' fun with us? I need to know if I can stop looking at Toyota's colorful wiring diagrams!
Bob
What's the story? Have you "broken the code" or havin' fun with us? I need to know if I can stop looking at Toyota's colorful wiring diagrams!
Bob
I am in thin 100% just waiting for fundage, so i can be the first to screw up... err try something out lol.
02-01-2005, 06:00 PM
#244
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Hey...I tested it out again today and it still seems to be working fine...The only concern i have is that my message display center where it shows temp., compass, and Miles till empty is messed up....i refilled yesterday and today and my miles till empty will not reset itself, also the compass is reversed. North is now south and east is now west, and the temp is now in C instead of F...Any reason on why that happened? I didn't mess with anything that came close to that...I am making a Homepage right now so i can post up how i wired it and post the 6 pages on VSC/Trac/LSD in the Manual. I am waiting for my buddy to send me the pics and video we made and took of the process and the fun afterwards but i should have it by the end of the week. Believe me i would not pull one over on you because i hate VSC with a passion and would not want someone to toy with me on a way to rid my self of it. Yes if someone can let me e-mail them the videos i will do that because i don't think i have the capabillity to host them. I am downloading the video's on my friends Apple because i have no software for videos on my windows. Thanks guys
Brendon
Brendon
02-02-2005, 04:43 AM
#246
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Thread Starter
Good prices for the TRAC OFF switch
I sent out a few requests yesterday and heard back a few different places. The first was from from Mike at www.toyota-parts.com. Here is the info:
Traction Control Switch 84988-06010 $41.80
It can be ordered through their online parts request function, or by calling: 888-272-8840.
The second response was from Greg at www.toyotapart.com. Here is the info:
Traction Control Switch 84988-06010 $41.71 + $8-10.00 shipping.
It can be ordered through their online parts request function, or by calling: 800-581-3033
Cheers,
Andreas
Traction Control Switch 84988-06010 $41.80
It can be ordered through their online parts request function, or by calling: 888-272-8840.
The second response was from Greg at www.toyotapart.com. Here is the info:
Traction Control Switch 84988-06010 $41.71 + $8-10.00 shipping.
It can be ordered through their online parts request function, or by calling: 800-581-3033
Cheers,
Andreas
Last edited by aowRS; 02-02-2005 at 04:49 AM.
02-03-2005, 08:24 AM
#248
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For Mike or Bob
Mike/Bob,
Not sure which one of you has the factory service manual with schematics, but I wanted to see if you can identify the individual wires (1, 2, & 3) that form the three-prong plug at the fluid pressure sensor. I believe this may be a scan of the component, but I have not been able to definitively identify the wires.
Andreas
Not sure which one of you has the factory service manual with schematics, but I wanted to see if you can identify the individual wires (1, 2, & 3) that form the three-prong plug at the fluid pressure sensor. I believe this may be a scan of the component, but I have not been able to definitively identify the wires.
Andreas
02-03-2005, 08:56 AM
#249
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Originally Posted by aowRS
Mike/Bob,
Not sure which one of you has the factory service manual with schematics, but I wanted to see if you can identify the individual wires (1, 2, & 3) that form the three-prong plug at the fluid pressure sensor. I believe this may be a scan of the component, but I have not been able to definitively identify the wires.
Not sure which one of you has the factory service manual with schematics, but I wanted to see if you can identify the individual wires (1, 2, & 3) that form the three-prong plug at the fluid pressure sensor. I believe this may be a scan of the component, but I have not been able to definitively identify the wires.
02-03-2005, 09:23 AM
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http://community.webshots.com/album/254318478jhyxPZ
see “p3”
also, from an earlier post of mine:
“………anyway, as an interrupt for the master cyl pressure sensor, i would lean towards what appears as a ground "E2" or the signal + "PMC". "VCM" is a constant voltage (4.7-5.3V) with IGN ON. any seem viable as the manual says that the VSC is going into a "fail safe" mode. i just do not know……………..”
anyway, from “p3” diagnostic page, it appears PMC’s voltage varies as the pressure changes. disconnecting it should fail the ecu as it will output zero voltage. as someone suggested earlier, the use of bridging each circuit w/ alligator clips and shutting them down independently is the least invasive method to prove it works.
hope this helps.
mike
see “p3”
also, from an earlier post of mine:
“………anyway, as an interrupt for the master cyl pressure sensor, i would lean towards what appears as a ground "E2" or the signal + "PMC". "VCM" is a constant voltage (4.7-5.3V) with IGN ON. any seem viable as the manual says that the VSC is going into a "fail safe" mode. i just do not know……………..”
anyway, from “p3” diagnostic page, it appears PMC’s voltage varies as the pressure changes. disconnecting it should fail the ecu as it will output zero voltage. as someone suggested earlier, the use of bridging each circuit w/ alligator clips and shutting them down independently is the least invasive method to prove it works.
hope this helps.
mike
02-03-2005, 09:40 AM
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mikNtx wrote:
...as someone suggested earlier, the use of bridging each circuit w/ alligator clips and shutting them down independently is the least invasive method to prove it works.
I tried that, connecting each wire one at a time, and could not see any diffrences. Then what I did was found a "3pst" switch that will open all 3 circuits at once. I haven't wired anything in yet, I was waiting to see what happened with the factory switch.
...as someone suggested earlier, the use of bridging each circuit w/ alligator clips and shutting them down independently is the least invasive method to prove it works.
I tried that, connecting each wire one at a time, and could not see any diffrences. Then what I did was found a "3pst" switch that will open all 3 circuits at once. I haven't wired anything in yet, I was waiting to see what happened with the factory switch.
02-03-2005, 11:02 AM
#252
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Mike,
Thank you. I may actually get some alligator clips and make three jumpers this weekend.
Simon,
Do you have a pic of this switch? As for the factory switches, I have one on the way, and another has been sent out to one of the thread participants...
Andreas
Thank you. I may actually get some alligator clips and make three jumpers this weekend.
Simon,
Do you have a pic of this switch? As for the factory switches, I have one on the way, and another has been sent out to one of the thread participants...
Andreas
Last edited by aowRS; 02-03-2005 at 11:12 AM.
02-03-2005, 12:29 PM
#253
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The switch I was looking at is here, http://www.alliedelec.com/catalog/pf.asp?FN=769.pdf
Or you could just get a regular looking toggle switch cause there isn't to high of amps going through those wires.
Or you could just get a regular looking toggle switch cause there isn't to high of amps going through those wires.
02-03-2005, 12:40 PM
#255
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Thread Starter
Interesting. So I assume the back of the switch has six posts? I ordered one of the factory TRAC switches, and hope to still make it work - either as a direct plug in via Ducky's research, or as an interrupter to one of the three wires.
On the other hand, it may very well be that all three need to be interrupted at the same time in order to achieve the result we are looking for.
Cheers,
Andreas
On the other hand, it may very well be that all three need to be interrupted at the same time in order to achieve the result we are looking for.
Cheers,
Andreas
02-03-2005, 12:49 PM
#256
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From what I could tell, I think all 3 of them need to be cut at once. I tried connecting just one of the wires at a time with allegator clips (there wasn't enough room to get 2 allegator clips, at least not the ones I have, into the plug) So I don't know what would happen if you could connect just 2 of the wires. Maybe Ill try this weekend. And yes, I believe that switch would have 6 post on the back.
02-03-2005, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Simon
mikNtx wrote:
...as someone suggested earlier, the use of bridging each circuit w/ alligator clips and shutting them down independently is the least invasive method to prove it works.
I tried that, connecting each wire one at a time, and could not see any diffrences. Then what I did was found a "3pst" switch that will open all 3 circuits at once. I haven't wired anything in yet, I was waiting to see what happened with the factory switch.
...as someone suggested earlier, the use of bridging each circuit w/ alligator clips and shutting them down independently is the least invasive method to prove it works.
I tried that, connecting each wire one at a time, and could not see any diffrences. Then what I did was found a "3pst" switch that will open all 3 circuits at once. I haven't wired anything in yet, I was waiting to see what happened with the factory switch.
I would disconnect only the VCM line and leave the other two on. JMO, I'm an electrical engineer but that don't mean jack...
02-03-2005, 12:53 PM
#258
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Simon,
I think this would be appropriate, mounted prominently on the dash in plain view:
J/K. Wrong switch style anyway.
Andreas
I think this would be appropriate, mounted prominently on the dash in plain view:
J/K. Wrong switch style anyway.
Andreas
Last edited by aowRS; 02-03-2005 at 12:56 PM.
02-03-2005, 12:59 PM
#259
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TacomaTRD,
Thank you for the input. VCM would be the #1 wire, black. Or so I think. One more day and the tinkering can begin, again.
Andreas
Thank you for the input. VCM would be the #1 wire, black. Or so I think. One more day and the tinkering can begin, again.
Andreas
02-03-2005, 12:59 PM
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I saw one of those switches at Radio Shack the other day. Looks like we would be launching missiles.
I agree with "TacomaTRD" that we need to try leaving just 1 wire disconnected, but like I said my allegator clips where to big to do that.
I agree with "TacomaTRD" that we need to try leaving just 1 wire disconnected, but like I said my allegator clips where to big to do that.
