maguirre

Hi all,

So I noticed that my both my passenger and driver side valve covers are leaking and I thought it would be a good time to replace my old valve cover gaskets. I will check to make sure my bolts are not loose though.
I am looking to buy (2) valve cover gaskets (part #11213-62020); (6) spark plug tube seals (#11193-70010)... do these come with the valve cover gaskets or do I need to buy these separately?
Is there anything else I need to buy to replace while I have everything open? i.e. intake manifold gaskets?

Any advise, tips are appreciated,

thanks,

maguirre

Malcolm99

After 20 years its time. Careful when tightening up those bolts you can crack the Valve cover, when reinstalling the bolts I use a screw driver with a 10mm and tighten by hand fairly snug/tight, look up the spec it might be in in/lbs.

I went with toyota parts and it was all separate, Cyl gasket x2 #11213-62020, you won't need the x4 Aluminum semi circles 11183-62010 but you need to remove them and reseal them with permatex ultra grey, do this just before you install the covers so the sealant will allow them to flatten out, I would replace the x2 Cam shaft plugs 11188-62010, and I would use a thin layer of sealant especially where the cover meets the head at all these junctions for semi circles, cam plugs and cam seals. The x6 #11193-70010 spark plug tube gaskets can be brittle and really stuck but they will come out in pieces, you do not need to bend the tang retaining them just go at the opposite side. You will need the x16 # 90210-005007 washer seals ideally, the PCV #12204-62010 and grommet #90480-18001, if you try to change the grommet at a later date it will fall apart inside the VC and you won't be happy. Intake air surge gaskets x2 #17176-62040 can probably be reused if installed in the same locations but the rubber OE film on them will be disturbed and the raised steel flattened and you don't want an intake leak throwing off your fuel trims, so buy new or use a very thin layer of sealant.

Many swear by the Toyota FIPG but its a crazy price and I've used that ultra grey on oil pans, auto trans pans, manual transmission halves on this vehicle and on turbocharged vehicles and never had a problem over the 20 years, you only need a thin layer not beads of sealant for this application, but do add small blobs of sealant at the junctions I mentioned. I think thats it.., good time to do the plugs and wires if questionable, and remove and check the boots on the coils, again I used the OEM Sumitomo wires 19037-62010 as they fit WAY better than NGK wires and mine where still good after 20 years so figured I couldn't go wrong on my DD, I also always use Denso OEM plugs as they where cheaper than NGK dual ground plugs and made of better materials. I leave the Throttle body attached to the intake, but now is also a good time to remove it and clean it and remove and clean the ISC, don't flood the electronics end of the ISC with carb cleaner, just use a q-tip and keep wiping until it moves freely, and have fun, double check my part numbers incase I made a mistake but should be good to go. Don't bother with the cam seals as with most toyota seals if they are not leaking don't touch them.

83

There are some nice photo tutorials online showing how to do this job that really helped me when I did it a few years ago. Other than that and what Malcolm wrote, I remember that there's a wire harness that goes all around the area you'll be working in. It's very brittle in its old age, and you need to be careful not to break it.

Jomoka

The bolts probably are loose, but because the rubber gaskets have shrunk and hardened. ***GENTLY*** tightening them will probably work for a short period, but a full gasket swap really is the only cure that's going to last another decade or two like the originals did.
I'd get OEM/Toyota parts, the various aftermarkets are often made of cheap materials which harden and crack in a short amount of time.