Free mods? The airbox you mentioned. Advance the timing to 12 degrees. Get rid of as much weight as possible. Air up the tires for less rolling resistance.

 

Man, I can't believe that I forgot that. I've also got my timing advanced to 12 degrees. It provides a noticable difference in power and acceleration. I strongly recommmend doing it or having it done.

 

Does this effect your gas milage any? Or is a more complete burn so it goes uneffected? Thanks.

 

Should give you more power AND better gas mileage.
You are just making better use of each power stroke....(insert joke of your choice).....

 

Kind of off-topic here, but damn, where did you buy it for $75? I assume Toyota? I wonder if they're really much better than the Fram or Deutsch brand filters that AutoZone sells for $18-25.

 

I got my Fram FF from Schucks for around $20 & thought that was pricey. When I saw $75 I figured you guys were getting them dipped in gold or something because I would never pay that much for a FF on my 2nd Gen. Maybe the $75 is for 3rd Gens or 4th Gens though & I spoke before I looked. If so sorry for poking a joke @ yuh.

 

How do you advance the timing and what will it do to your engine?

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...advance+timing

 

If the truck is not going over 70, I would check that accelator arm. Somtimes, there isn't enough tension to throttle it all the way.

 

Could have the price wrong...Its been quite a while. But I never buy that cheap Fram schmutz. I figure if they build their FF like their oil filters then I don't want them on my truck. I buy Purolator or Toyota. Cheap FF lead to clogged injectors.

 

Thanks for the advice I will look for a purolater next time.

 

AgRunner06, thanks for the info for timing adjustment. I will have to get me a light.

 

How can you be sure if you never use them?

 

How do I go about doing that? Most of the time the vehicle will not even downshift when you press it firmly to the floor going down the highway.

 

Do you mean upshift? If you push the gas to the floor you are increasing speed as your transmission upshifts. I was recently told by my toy tech that the trottle cables come out of adjustment quite easily. I am not positive on how to accurately adjust the cable. I would think with the engine off you go under the hood to your throttle body and with the correct wrench in hand use your other hand to hold the throttle cable bracket wide open and check for slack in the cable. If you have noticable slack then adjust to a tighter fit. Is this correct guys? Or close at all?

 

Yes, that is correct.

That is what I was talkin' about.

 

I bought my OEM Toyota FF at Davis Toyota in Pittsburgh for about $28 I think. I'll need to check, but that's the number that sticks in my head...

 

Oops yes I meant downshift. Duh. I'll look to see if I can figure it out.

Where is the fuel filter located and how difficult is it to change?

 

Dude, I feel for ya (sorry a little late on the post) as one once said, it's a gutless piece of turd. I spent over $3000 in performance mod's and still no big improvement whatsoever. That was also another one of my reasons for a stronger engine when I sold my 4Runner.

The FF is located underneath the passenger's side frame (or actually it's right in it) location is just underneath the passenger's front seat area, be prepared for bloody knuckles taking it out. I personally took it to the dealer to have it done.

But one big suggestion, use this guideline for automatics for re-gearing so you don't waste money like me:

4.10 = 29" tires (P225 & P235)
4.56 = Don't waste your money with 29" too high, you're engine will scream down the highway and with 30", might still feel underpowered.
4.88 = 30", 31" tires
5.29 = 33" tires

 

Watch out for the notoriously fragile head gaskets. My friends '90 was the same way right before it blew its head off.