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URD Kit conservative tuning, impossible without EGT?

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Old 08-11-2006, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Super Doody
Again, I like to reiterate that if piggy backs and bigger injector are the way to go then why are URD's most recently turbo and 1GR supercharger projects using additional injector set ups? Gadget and Brian are smart guys. They are trying to tell us something.
sigh... URD's turbo port fueler project is there to support people that need more fuel than you can EASILY & RELIABLY get with larger injectors.

The generally accepted threshold of running larger injectors on our engines with a piggyback is 370cc. There are many "what HP can I get with this injector size" calculators out on the 'net, and if you use one you'll find that a 370cc injector will map out to about 380bhp on our engine. Which turns out to be just about the top end of what you can expect from running a supercharger with common bolt-ons.

ref: http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm

Now, to get past this HP threshold, you need two things... More boost and more fuel. The first comes from a turbocharger, since trying to push more boost out of an S/C will start creating enough heat to nullify any performance gains from the boost. This happens at about 10-11psi. (at sea level)

The second half of this fun (more fuel) will have to come from somewhere other than simply craming larger injectors into the holes, because of the issues with controlling them. Hence, the creation of the turbo port fueler. And the TPF can only be used on a turbo system, because it meshes with the stock intake manifold - which isn't there in a S/C system.
Old 08-21-2006, 08:01 AM
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I got the URD kit! It's so purty, especially the FTC and AFR gauge. I ended up getting a free upgrade to the Innovate Standalone Gauge Kit (LC-1 and XD-16) thanks to Brian at URD. It's pretty cool because the gauge can display a bunch of different kinds of information (I'll only be using it for AFR though).

Holy mackerel, that FTC has a lot of wires coming out of it BTW, very scary The fuel pump is somewhat smaller than I was expecting as well... haven't seen one before.

I've decided to live on the edge and do the entire installation myself (other than the extra exhaust bung for the WB O2 sensor). It basically comes down to the fact that I only trust myself to do the install correctly LOL. Should be exciting, I'll try to take pics to document my adventures...

I pick up the 4Runner on Thrusday!!! It's gonna rock my socks off

Last edited by mastacox; 08-21-2006 at 08:59 AM.
Old 08-21-2006, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by midiwall
The first comes from a turbocharger, since trying to push more boost out of an S/C will start creating enough heat to nullify any performance gains from the boost. This happens at about 10-11psi. (at sea level).
Yeah this is something one of my buddies can't seem to get through his thick skull... The only way to run more boost is to have an intercooler which means centrifugal (rather than roots) type supercharger or a turbo (or I suppose water/methanol injection, but I'm not a huge fan of this option personally).

EGT's can just get WAY out of control with a roots type supercharger. I'm waiting for that guy to put an underdrive pulley on his engine and burn a hole through his cylinder... and/or melt a valve
Old 08-21-2006, 11:13 AM
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mastacox:

I recently installed my URD kit a couple of weeks ago. The directions are well written. I had a local muffler shop install the O2 bung and check the system for leaks. They found a gasket leak at the rear of the cat and replaced it. I started with the fuel pump. Once that was complete, I started it up to make sure there were no problems before proceeding. I then removed the s/c and installed the 2.2 pulley and injectors. As for connecting the boost/vac line to the FTC, my line has 2 "T"s installed in-line due to having a boost guage. This was a bit confusing since this was about the only thing not addressed clearly on the directions. I then installed the FTC. I installed it behind the gauge cluster as suggested. I made sure I rapped it well as to not make contact with the cluster. I also turned the unit around so the boost/vac port was on the left (as not to kink) and the serial port on the right facing the glove box. The FTC was very easy to install. I made sure I double checked the wiring diagram before making any cuts. After the install, I connected the laptop to check the short and long term fuel trims etc. Even though the FTC came pre-loaded for my application, the numbers were off quite a bit. The below 3000 rpm ping was pretty bad on closed loop. I played with it for sometime in a hot sweaty Phoenix garage and then decided to let a shop take over. It goes into the shop on Wednesday and I'll also have it dyno'd to see what the actual RWHP is. I have chosen Vivid Racing to tune it. Clark at Vivid is well experienced at tuning and tunes many race cars including Porsches and is familiar with this type of tuning. He even travels out of state to tune. The only thing he disagreed with on the URD directions was the "road" tuning. He called it "dangerous". Their web site is www.vividracing.com I'll keep you posted on how it turns out

Last edited by pfdaxe; 08-21-2006 at 11:16 AM.
Old 08-21-2006, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by pfdaxe
After the install, I connected the laptop to check the short and long term fuel trims etc. Even though the FTC came pre-loaded for my application, the numbers were off quite a bit. The below 3000 rpm ping was pretty bad on closed loop. I played with it for sometime in a hot sweaty Phoenix garage and then decided to let a shop take over. It goes into the shop on Wednesday and I'll also have it dyno'd to see what the actual RWHP is.
What kind of instrumentation do you have to aid in tuning? Did you get a wideband O2 gauge? PHX gets pretty hot so ping would definitely be a problem, but Los Alamos is nice and cool, at high altitude, and I'll have WB O2 tuning...

While we're on the subject, what is the preferred source of "ignition-on" power for the FTC and extra gauges? I was thinking I might do an extra fuse box for the FTC and Wideband sensor controller, with properly rated fuses for each, and then a relay that powers the box and is switched on by an ignition-on source, but where???

Last edited by mastacox; 08-21-2006 at 11:38 AM.
Old 08-21-2006, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mastacox

While we're on the subject, what is the preferred source of "ignition-on" power for the FTC and extra gauges? I was thinking I might do an extra fuse box for the FTC and Wideband sensor controller, with properly rated fuses for each, and then a relay that powers the box and is switched on by an ignition-on source, but where???
Sounds great Brian!

The directions say to tap into the ECU power for the FTC. Note: you don't need to cut the ECU power wire, just use strippers to cut the insulation and slide (push and pull) the insulation back enough to wrap and solder your splice onto it. Then wrap with electrical tape and a wire tie.

Last edited by mt_goat; 08-21-2006 at 01:00 PM.
Old 08-21-2006, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mastacox
What kind of instrumentation do you have to aid in tuning? Did you get a wideband O2 gauge? PHX gets pretty hot so ping would definitely be a problem, but Los Alamos is nice and cool, at high altitude, and I'll have WB O2 tuning...

While we're on the subject, what is the preferred source of "ignition-on" power for the FTC and extra gauges? I was thinking I might do an extra fuse box for the FTC and Wideband sensor controller, with properly rated fuses for each, and then a relay that powers the box and is switched on by an ignition-on source, but where???
I have the OBD II and LM1 WB O2 sensor from URD along with the software for the FTC for tuning. I'd rather have someone dial it in perfect the first time that does this for a living than spending hours and hours "trying" to get it right. It's to damn hott. Yeah...I get the ping from the timing not adjusted yet, the high temps here in Phx and the ˟˟˟˟˟y 91 octane gas they sell here...
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