Troubleshooting engine issue...any ideas?
#1
Troubleshooting engine issue...any ideas?
Okay, so here's the problem. The issue seems to occur mostly in the 60-70MPH range. Basically it feels like the engine loses a little power and then there's like a jolt...one time it seemed like it jolted 2-3 times consecutively; also sometimes the car seem sorta shaky...not like "violently" shaky, but noticeably shaky. I don't know if maybe it's a compression issue or maybe a misfire...I don't have any engine codes except for a P0420 (catalytic converter). I know a misfiring engine can eventually fry a catalytic converter...so I'm thinking maybe misfiring engine. Any ideas? And if it is a misfiring engine, what do you do to fix it...clean/replace the fuel injectors? Any help is appreciated...let me know if you need any other details.
#2
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
You give no Engine or year or even mileage
Your sure the PO420 is the only code ??
When this happens do you notice anything in the gauges the Tach
Hard to tell it could be ignition or fuel related I am thinking more ignition but that should trip the MIL
Battery terminals clean and tight the grounds clean and tight the one for the ecm on the intake is critical
Loose connection that vibrates when you hit the sweet spot causing problems.
Fuel filter unable to keep up with the demand at those speeds
One just needs to work through one thing at a time
Your sure the PO420 is the only code ??
When this happens do you notice anything in the gauges the Tach
Hard to tell it could be ignition or fuel related I am thinking more ignition but that should trip the MIL
Battery terminals clean and tight the grounds clean and tight the one for the ecm on the intake is critical
Loose connection that vibrates when you hit the sweet spot causing problems.
Fuel filter unable to keep up with the demand at those speeds
One just needs to work through one thing at a time
#4
You give no Engine or year or even mileage
Your sure the PO420 is the only code ??
When this happens do you notice anything in the gauges the Tach
Hard to tell it could be ignition or fuel related I am thinking more ignition but that should trip the MIL
Battery terminals clean and tight the grounds clean and tight the one for the ecm on the intake is critical
Loose connection that vibrates when you hit the sweet spot causing problems.
Fuel filter unable to keep up with the demand at those speeds
One just needs to work through one thing at a time
Your sure the PO420 is the only code ??
When this happens do you notice anything in the gauges the Tach
Hard to tell it could be ignition or fuel related I am thinking more ignition but that should trip the MIL
Battery terminals clean and tight the grounds clean and tight the one for the ecm on the intake is critical
Loose connection that vibrates when you hit the sweet spot causing problems.
Fuel filter unable to keep up with the demand at those speeds
One just needs to work through one thing at a time
#5
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Posts: 13,381
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Well that could be your problem !!
That spring is what keeps the electrical connection to the plug tight by keeping pressure against the plug .
If that tension is off or the spring at times does not do it job like at the certain rpm it just might be easier to notice at that speed .
I would look for arc marks or the boot being burned .
If I had a bad coil pack I would not mind cutting one apart to see just how that does work.
That spring is what keeps the electrical connection to the plug tight by keeping pressure against the plug .
If that tension is off or the spring at times does not do it job like at the certain rpm it just might be easier to notice at that speed .
I would look for arc marks or the boot being burned .
If I had a bad coil pack I would not mind cutting one apart to see just how that does work.
#6
Well that could be your problem !!
That spring is what keeps the electrical connection to the plug tight by keeping pressure against the plug .
If that tension is off or the spring at times does not do it job like at the certain rpm it just might be easier to notice at that speed .
I would look for arc marks or the boot being burned .
If I had a bad coil pack I would not mind cutting one apart to see just how that does work.
That spring is what keeps the electrical connection to the plug tight by keeping pressure against the plug .
If that tension is off or the spring at times does not do it job like at the certain rpm it just might be easier to notice at that speed .
I would look for arc marks or the boot being burned .
If I had a bad coil pack I would not mind cutting one apart to see just how that does work.
#7
Well that could be your problem !!
That spring is what keeps the electrical connection to the plug tight by keeping pressure against the plug .
If that tension is off or the spring at times does not do it job like at the certain rpm it just might be easier to notice at that speed .
I would look for arc marks or the boot being burned .
If I had a bad coil pack I would not mind cutting one apart to see just how that does work.
That spring is what keeps the electrical connection to the plug tight by keeping pressure against the plug .
If that tension is off or the spring at times does not do it job like at the certain rpm it just might be easier to notice at that speed .
I would look for arc marks or the boot being burned .
If I had a bad coil pack I would not mind cutting one apart to see just how that does work.
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#9
I honestly don't know. Here's the timeline: bought the car like a month ago. Knew it needed some stuff done so I started doing stuff. I think I swapped the spark plugs within a couple of days of purchasing the vehicle. It's possible it had the issue all along, but the day I bought it I drove it plenty fast and I don't remember noticing an issue. Seems like it wasn't until a week or two later that I noticed it. For me to replace the ignition coil, o2 sensor and spark plug would be cheaper than paying for diagnostics so I may just do that and hope it's one of those three.
#10
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
It would not be the first time New Vehicle Lust caused someone to miss something like this .
Just remember your PO420 code can be anything in that circuit .
Even a exhaust leak
So replacing the sensor might not cure the problem.
At 200,000 miles I am on my second set of catalytic converters
Just remember your PO420 code can be anything in that circuit .
Even a exhaust leak
So replacing the sensor might not cure the problem.
At 200,000 miles I am on my second set of catalytic converters
#11
No way Wyoming. I just hit cat #2 this week...at 191k now. That was a challenge to take off.
Way I would hit the troubleshooting - real-time scanner...if you intend to rule out faulty components, not just know what codes. Change the sensors if they're due. Look for exhaust leaks - lot of ways to find em, but a pain to find. Assuming everything else upstairs of sensor #1 is tuned up, the cat is the most expensive and therefore the last thing to rule out. Best of luck!
Way I would hit the troubleshooting - real-time scanner...if you intend to rule out faulty components, not just know what codes. Change the sensors if they're due. Look for exhaust leaks - lot of ways to find em, but a pain to find. Assuming everything else upstairs of sensor #1 is tuned up, the cat is the most expensive and therefore the last thing to rule out. Best of luck!
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