TRD Tundra Front Lift UPDATE
#1
TRD Tundra Front Lift UPDATE
I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THE USE OF OME N91S STRUTS UP FRONT IN COMBINATION WITH AN ARB LOCKER WITHOUT SOME SORT OF LIMITING STRAPS. The locked front and excessive droop is a CV killer. I know because I broke two on Slickrock at Tellico about 30-minutes apart at SE4RJ3. If you have a front locker, or plan on running one, then you either need front limiting straps or you need to use the BLUE Tacoma TRD shocks or another Tokico alternative.
For use with a Front ARB Locker (ARB RD90):
2004 Toyota Tundra TRD 4WD Front Coil: 48131-AF090 - right - Blue + Yellow goes on the passenger side
2004 Toyota Tundra TRD 4WD Front Coil: 48131-AF100 - left - Yellow + Yellow goes on driver side
2004 Toyota TRD Tacoma Double Cab stock front shocks: 48510-A9160 - Tokico TRD Blue (TWO)
Sonoran Steel Fabrication L.L.C. Front differential drop spacers (TWO)
Sonoran Steel Fabrication L.L.C. 38mm Japanese made extended studs (SIX)
Bamachem 3/8" thick: 1/2" Lift HDPE Top Spacer (TWO)
Without a Front Locker:
OME N91S Struts are fine, but should be used with limiting straps if you plan on wheeling hard where possible overextension of the outer CV joint can be present while the drooped front wheel is under extreme torque.
that's all. i updated the original thread w/ this info and i just wanted to put this out there as a new topic to get the attention that it deserves.
the OME's are fine for open fronts and moderate wheeling. go to something more extreme with tons of skinny pedal or go to a locked front and you're asking for trouble when the fronts are drooped all the way out and can see torque.
For use with a Front ARB Locker (ARB RD90):
2004 Toyota Tundra TRD 4WD Front Coil: 48131-AF090 - right - Blue + Yellow goes on the passenger side
2004 Toyota Tundra TRD 4WD Front Coil: 48131-AF100 - left - Yellow + Yellow goes on driver side
2004 Toyota TRD Tacoma Double Cab stock front shocks: 48510-A9160 - Tokico TRD Blue (TWO)
Sonoran Steel Fabrication L.L.C. Front differential drop spacers (TWO)
Sonoran Steel Fabrication L.L.C. 38mm Japanese made extended studs (SIX)
Bamachem 3/8" thick: 1/2" Lift HDPE Top Spacer (TWO)
Without a Front Locker:
OME N91S Struts are fine, but should be used with limiting straps if you plan on wheeling hard where possible overextension of the outer CV joint can be present while the drooped front wheel is under extreme torque.
that's all. i updated the original thread w/ this info and i just wanted to put this out there as a new topic to get the attention that it deserves.
the OME's are fine for open fronts and moderate wheeling. go to something more extreme with tons of skinny pedal or go to a locked front and you're asking for trouble when the fronts are drooped all the way out and can see torque.
Last edited by bamachem; 05-15-2006 at 06:43 AM.
#5
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The biggest issue with CV joints breakage is bindage. This comes from shocks being too long and full steering lock in 4WD-Lo. This creates too much stress on the outboard CV joint and they will come out of the cage. A front locker causes this risk to multiply.
2 CV joints were broken in the exact situation this past weekend: 4WD-Lo with steering at full-lock [and both were in reverse]. Another was broken because the front locker atfull suspension drop (OME shocks) tore the CV joint from the cage.
Take it easy on the CV joints, especially if you have a front locker.
2 CV joints were broken in the exact situation this past weekend: 4WD-Lo with steering at full-lock [and both were in reverse]. Another was broken because the front locker atfull suspension drop (OME shocks) tore the CV joint from the cage.
Take it easy on the CV joints, especially if you have a front locker.
#6
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We all learned ALOT this weekend needless to say, just in time for me personally. I was just getting ready to re-do/update my front suspension yet again. Too bad we have to admit the old man was right, yet again.
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#8
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Not only that, but trying to get the whole assembly back together with the N91S shocks is a PITA since they are so long. I would hate to have to replace a CV on the trail with the longer OMEs and no floor jack.
Someday I'm going to upgrade to the blue tokico trds.
Someday I'm going to upgrade to the blue tokico trds.
#9
Originally Posted by RTdawgs
The biggest issue with CV joints breakage is bindage. This comes from shocks being too long and full steering lock in 4WD-Lo. This creates too much stress on the outboard CV joint and they will come out of the cage. A front locker causes this risk to multiply.
2 CV joints were broken in the exact situation this past weekend: 4WD-Lo with steering at full-lock [and both were in reverse]. Another was broken because the front locker atfull suspension drop (OME shocks) tore the CV joint from the cage.
Take it easy on the CV joints, especially if you have a front locker.
2 CV joints were broken in the exact situation this past weekend: 4WD-Lo with steering at full-lock [and both were in reverse]. Another was broken because the front locker atfull suspension drop (OME shocks) tore the CV joint from the cage.
Take it easy on the CV joints, especially if you have a front locker.
Originally Posted by KyleT
Are you saying a double-diff-drop? running 2 spacers on each side?
Originally Posted by rocket
Will Bilsteins cause the same issue?
Originally Posted by Crux
Not only that, but trying to get the whole assembly back together with the N91S shocks is a PITA since they are so long. I would hate to have to replace a CV on the trail with the longer OMEs and no floor jack.
Someday I'm going to upgrade to the blue tokico trds.
Someday I'm going to upgrade to the blue tokico trds.
#11
connected. when connected, it will help to limit droop on an off-camber position. however, when going up a ledge (like i was) and you have both fronts on top w/ the breakover putting all the weight on the rear, they will BOTH extend to full droop (like mine did). at that point, the cage is taking all the stress of the springs pulling the axle stub against them and then you add the torque of the tires spinning on the rocks at the same rate (due to the locked front not distributing torque to the easiest to spin) and then add to that the fact that my uppers aren't trimmed and will rub at full droop, having the effect of riding the brake on the fronts to add even more torque.
in that particular situation, you begin to crack the cage. you will hear it faintly click as it begins to give up the ghost. it may not completely snap at that point, but it's on borrowed time (as my pass side was proven to be).
OME's aren't all that bad for moderate wheeling w/ an unlocked front, but when you lock the front and get excessive droop at the same time, then watch out...
in that particular situation, you begin to crack the cage. you will hear it faintly click as it begins to give up the ghost. it may not completely snap at that point, but it's on borrowed time (as my pass side was proven to be).
OME's aren't all that bad for moderate wheeling w/ an unlocked front, but when you lock the front and get excessive droop at the same time, then watch out...
#13
more discussion here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...5&page=4&pp=40
the only possible way to increase strength is to CRYO the OEM axles.
the only possible way to increase strength is to CRYO the OEM axles.
#18
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Originally Posted by bamachem
yeah, but you're the crotchity old man that nobody pays any attention to...
Apparently there are quite a few people that do pay attention to me. Getting a few days off to go to Tellico was quite a chore.
Back at it.......