95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Trailer Wiring

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Old 05-06-2006 | 03:33 AM
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Dianna's Avatar
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From: Ohio
Trailer Wiring

I have a factory hitch and trailer wiring in my 2001 4Runner. I searched and see that a lot of you have problems with the converter going bad. Can anyone tell me how to use a multimeter to check to see if mine is bad? I bought a Harbor Freight trailer and I'm not sure if it's the 4Runner that has the problem or if it's my trailer wiring. Any "multimeter for dummies" help would be appreciated!
Old 05-06-2006 | 05:56 AM
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What are your symptoms?

The OE converter went out on mine a few years ago. I thought it was my trailer at first until I put my bike rack (yes it has tail lights) on and it did the same thing.

Just check to make sure you have 12 volts or so at each light output:
Brown (running light) should have power anytime the lights are on.
Green (right brake/turn light) should have power with brakes on or with the right turn signal.
Yellow (left brake/turn light) should have power with brakes on or with the left turn signal.
White is ground, and you should verify that there is continuity between this and the frame of your vehicle.

OR you could buy something like this:
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/me...Category_Code=

hupptoy
Old 05-06-2006 | 08:22 AM
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The symptoms I had when my converter went bad was it started to drink and smoke and swear alot...

OK, really, my symptoms were I would get voltage on left turn and running, but not stop or right turn... I used a 12v test lamp, as it was a LOT easier to use, VISUALLY, on an intermitant signal, than a multimeter either digital or analog. Get one very cheap at any parts store or even cheaper at Harbor Freight.

Using the test lamp/ multimeter, check for power at each point on the car side trailer connector as you run through the range of functions (left signal, Right, etc). If ANY give no output (voltage) or won't light the test lamp it is most likely is the converter, found behind the rear, left panel as you open the rear hatch. It is a bit of a PITA to get the panel off, then you will have to splice in the new converter, unless you want to buy the 200$ one from the dealer. I used a 20 dollar one from NAPA and it works great. I had to do this about 3 months ago. If you want, I'll dig out the part #

Good luck.

S.
Old 05-06-2006 | 12:25 PM
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Dianna's Avatar
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I have no trailer lights at all. I have no idea at all how to use the multimeter I seriously need basic directions on how to use the thing! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by Dianna; 05-06-2006 at 12:26 PM.
Old 05-06-2006 | 12:53 PM
  #5  
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From: Port Coquitlam, BC
Set the meter to a DC scale, between 12 and 30 V, whatever your meter has. I use 20V on mine but yours may be different. Put the black wire on a good ground on the Runner and check the connections on the trailer connector one by one with the red lead, using hupptoy's instructions.
Old 05-06-2006 | 12:54 PM
  #6  
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D, if you don't know how to use the multimeter, I, again, would suggest the use of a test light... However, to use the multimeter for this application, you'll need to make sure the leads are in the positions to measure DC Volts. Now depending on the type of multimeter you have, bottom dollar or expensive, the probes may need to be positioned differently for diff measurements... If no adjs are possible, then set the meter to DC Volts (V) at 20 volt level, then you're set to see if you are getting voltage at the connector... Place the black probe point on a good ground (bolt, screw, etc.) someplace where there is no paint (not the bumper) and the red probe point into the various positions of the connector. Run through the left turn, rt turn, stop, and running lights. You should get a little over 12 volts cooresponding to the wire colors mentioned in an above post. If you are not getting voltage in any of 'em, you will have to check for voltage BEFORE the converter. If no voltage before it, then your problem is elsewhere (fuses, wiring) ... Hope this helps.

Good luck.
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