Towing a Trailer to Alaska w/ 2001 4Runner
#1
Towing a Trailer to Alaska w/ 2001 4Runner
My girlfriend and I are thinking about towing a travel trailer to AK for the summer. I have a 2001 4Runner (V6 3.4L) with a towing package.
I am new to the whole towing thing, and I saw in the manual it says MAX 5000lbs for towing.
We're talking a 3,400 mile, 60 hour drive over the course of two weeks.
What is the heaviest trailer recommended for that long of a drive? I am looking currently at a 3,500lb 19 foot trailer. Would that be too much for that long of a drive?
Thanks in advance for any input!
I am new to the whole towing thing, and I saw in the manual it says MAX 5000lbs for towing.
We're talking a 3,400 mile, 60 hour drive over the course of two weeks.
What is the heaviest trailer recommended for that long of a drive? I am looking currently at a 3,500lb 19 foot trailer. Would that be too much for that long of a drive?
Thanks in advance for any input!
#2
You got electric brake controller?? Probably a must-have.
Additional aftermarket tranny cooler could'nt hurt either.
If you drive sensibly, I think you'll be fine.
This assumes that your 2001 truck is well maintained overall.
Of course, if you can make the load lighter, all the better.
Additional aftermarket tranny cooler could'nt hurt either.
If you drive sensibly, I think you'll be fine.
This assumes that your 2001 truck is well maintained overall.
Of course, if you can make the load lighter, all the better.
Last edited by millball; 02-18-2015 at 12:01 PM.
#3
Thanks! Just your message alone made me aware of the electric brake controller and tranny cooler. I didn't even know about either of these but they definitely make sense. I am such a noobie!
#4
here are some mods & service checks that is strongly recommended before you go on that trip:
1. auxiliary tranny cooler - at least as big as the TRD tranny cooler. better if you bypass your stock tranny cooler and install two TRD tranny coolers. another good brand of tranny coolers is B & M. the two coolers will provide extra cooling for the atf as well as insurance against the tranny milkshake problem.
2. brake upgrade - either a stoptech brake upgrade or a tundra brake upgrade is strongly recommended since you will be towing for 3400 miles (and back?) for extra stopping power and minimal brake fade. this should be in addition to the electric brake controller mentioned in the previous post, assuming your trailer has electric brakes and lights.
3. lower ball joint replacement - you'll need to get a pair of oem lower balljoints to replace your current ones, assuming that they have not been replaced yet
1. auxiliary tranny cooler - at least as big as the TRD tranny cooler. better if you bypass your stock tranny cooler and install two TRD tranny coolers. another good brand of tranny coolers is B & M. the two coolers will provide extra cooling for the atf as well as insurance against the tranny milkshake problem.
2. brake upgrade - either a stoptech brake upgrade or a tundra brake upgrade is strongly recommended since you will be towing for 3400 miles (and back?) for extra stopping power and minimal brake fade. this should be in addition to the electric brake controller mentioned in the previous post, assuming your trailer has electric brakes and lights.
3. lower ball joint replacement - you'll need to get a pair of oem lower balljoints to replace your current ones, assuming that they have not been replaced yet
#5
here are some mods & service checks that is strongly recommended before you go on that trip:
1. auxiliary tranny cooler - at least as big as the TRD tranny cooler. better if you bypass your stock tranny cooler and install two TRD tranny coolers. another good brand of tranny coolers is B & M. the two coolers will provide extra cooling for the atf as well as insurance against the tranny milkshake problem.
2. brake upgrade - either a stoptech brake upgrade or a tundra brake upgrade is strongly recommended since you will be towing for 3400 miles (and back?) for extra stopping power and minimal brake fade. this should be in addition to the electric brake controller mentioned in the previous post, assuming your trailer has electric brakes and lights.
3. lower ball joint replacement - you'll need to get a pair of oem lower balljoints to replace your current ones, assuming that they have not been replaced yet
1. auxiliary tranny cooler - at least as big as the TRD tranny cooler. better if you bypass your stock tranny cooler and install two TRD tranny coolers. another good brand of tranny coolers is B & M. the two coolers will provide extra cooling for the atf as well as insurance against the tranny milkshake problem.
2. brake upgrade - either a stoptech brake upgrade or a tundra brake upgrade is strongly recommended since you will be towing for 3400 miles (and back?) for extra stopping power and minimal brake fade. this should be in addition to the electric brake controller mentioned in the previous post, assuming your trailer has electric brakes and lights.
3. lower ball joint replacement - you'll need to get a pair of oem lower balljoints to replace your current ones, assuming that they have not been replaced yet
#6
1. TRD tranny cooler:
http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com...dproduct=-8071
2. Stoptech brake upgrade could cost at least $1500 for parts alone.. may $2000+ plus labor.
here's a link for some brake parts to give you some idea (the calipers and rotors were made by stoptech for trd):
http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com...&sortField=sku
the tundra brake upgrade costs much less if you buy used or remanufactured calipers with new rotors and pads.
here's the sticky: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...de-faq-239519/
3. LBJ: you can check the part numbers from your local toyota dealer and order them online. you can also request info and buy online here using your truck's VIN: http://www.toyotapartsales.com/
http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com...dproduct=-8071
2. Stoptech brake upgrade could cost at least $1500 for parts alone.. may $2000+ plus labor.
here's a link for some brake parts to give you some idea (the calipers and rotors were made by stoptech for trd):
http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com...&sortField=sku
the tundra brake upgrade costs much less if you buy used or remanufactured calipers with new rotors and pads.
here's the sticky: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...de-faq-239519/
3. LBJ: you can check the part numbers from your local toyota dealer and order them online. you can also request info and buy online here using your truck's VIN: http://www.toyotapartsales.com/
Last edited by KZN185W; 02-18-2015 at 02:58 PM.
#7
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 99
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
I really think or hope you do some local trips .
To get the feel of things .
Can you parallel park with that trailer hooked up??
Back into a parking space??
Perhaps think about going with larger mirrors so you can see better.
You state 3500 pounds is that for a empty trailer Weight adds up quick!!
Is this a vacation or an endurance race??
To get the feel of things .
Can you parallel park with that trailer hooked up??
Back into a parking space??
Perhaps think about going with larger mirrors so you can see better.
You state 3500 pounds is that for a empty trailer Weight adds up quick!!
Is this a vacation or an endurance race??
Trending Topics
#8
I have an 01 runner and pull a heavier travel trailer then what you mentioned. I would suggest getting the anti sway bar, a load leveling attachment and the trailer brake kit. It makes towing so much nicer and safer. I do not use over drive and use the ECT button when towing..
You do need to get familiar with towing. Not something you just want to get out on the road and do. Wider mirrors would help too. With the above attachements there is no backing so be aware of when you are pulling into a gas station and such. Forward driving only.
When towing, people do not like getting behind you and tend to pull out in front of you when they are coming onto a road. You really need to pay attention when towing. The camper will add up in weight when you add all of the things you need when camping such as blankets, food, utensils, chairs... It adds up quick. You will be surprised at what all goes into a camper.
You do need to get familiar with towing. Not something you just want to get out on the road and do. Wider mirrors would help too. With the above attachements there is no backing so be aware of when you are pulling into a gas station and such. Forward driving only.
When towing, people do not like getting behind you and tend to pull out in front of you when they are coming onto a road. You really need to pay attention when towing. The camper will add up in weight when you add all of the things you need when camping such as blankets, food, utensils, chairs... It adds up quick. You will be surprised at what all goes into a camper.
#9
Wide mirrors are required.
Pick up an extra spare for the trailer. Are you taking the Alcan Highway or shipping it?
If you see a gas station and you are at half a tank, fill up. It is a long way between stations up there.
Pick up an extra spare for the trailer. Are you taking the Alcan Highway or shipping it?
If you see a gas station and you are at half a tank, fill up. It is a long way between stations up there.
#11
Look behind the drivers rear tire on most if not all bumper pulled trailers. The sewer drain is not that far from the ground, that is something else you have to take into account when pulling into parking lots. Watch for steep angles. For a first time pull like that I would suggest getting a pop up camper trailer. Way smaller and still have the conviences.
Last edited by Terrys87; 02-19-2015 at 01:13 AM.
#12
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 99
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Have you ever done any long trips like this??
To have any real fun two weeks is not near enough time.
If you have a dead line it makes it worse.
Can I say bloodsucking insects
Like I said this is more an endurance race.
Then no matter the best pretrip maintenance things happen .
To have any real fun two weeks is not near enough time.
If you have a dead line it makes it worse.
Can I say bloodsucking insects
Like I said this is more an endurance race.
Then no matter the best pretrip maintenance things happen .
Last edited by wyoming9; 02-19-2015 at 01:26 AM.
#13
Look behind the drivers rear tire on most if not all bumper pulled trailers. The sewer drain is not that far from the ground, that is something else you have to take into account when pulling into parking lots. Watch for steep angles. For a first time pull like that I would suggest getting a pop up camper trailer. Way smaller and still have the conviences.
One disadvantage to using a pop up in the Yukon Territory and Alaska during the summer is bear claws...when I was stationed up there bears gained entry to a few tent trailers when people headed out and left food on the dinette and bears had a free lunch.
#14
I'm not sure what prompted Toyota to advertise a 5,000-lb towing capacity. I've owned my truck since new, and have pulled a 4x8 trailer many, many times loaded with firewood, fill dirt, river rock etc. The most weight I've had on the trailer was around 2,500 lbs of river rock (10 times). I can tell you with absolute sincerity that the truck was not overly pleased with this much weight behind it. Never had an issue, but all of this heavier towing was done fairly local to my house.
While the advice given by others is all solid, I'd give some real thought about whether your 4Runner is the best choice for what you propose.
Andreas
While the advice given by others is all solid, I'd give some real thought about whether your 4Runner is the best choice for what you propose.
Andreas
#15
I'm not sure what prompted Toyota to advertise a 5,000-lb towing capacity. I've owned my truck since new, and have pulled a 4x8 trailer many, many times loaded with firewood, fill dirt, river rock etc. The most weight I've had on the trailer was around 2,500 lbs of river rock (10 times). I can tell you with absolute sincerity that the truck was not overly pleased with this much weight behind it. Never had an issue, but all of this heavier towing was done fairly local to my house.
While the advice given by others is all solid, I'd give some real thought about whether your 4Runner is the best choice for what you propose.
Andreas
While the advice given by others is all solid, I'd give some real thought about whether your 4Runner is the best choice for what you propose.
Andreas
I have towed upwards of ~8-9000lb with mine but I can tell you it was not happy with it at all. My top speed was ~55mph as an example.
I have also towed a LOT of cars on it that were in the ~4000-5000lb range with trailer and while it was much happier and if you know what you are doing it will handle it, not sure I would trust it for a 3400 mile drive. Just not what it was designed for, even with the above upgrades.
For shorter local trips it does this fine and is a great daily driver with weekend tow duty.
Another thing to factor in is wind resistance. A car on a trailer behind the 4runner gives minimal extra drag. A 19ft trailer on the other hand will give considerable extra drag (as seen when I have towed 5x8 uhaul trailers that weight half as much but felt like more then other loads).
For a trip like you are talking about, I would REALLY look into a full sized truck, preferably a diesel.
You can rent them from some places and if you look around might be able to find unlimited mileage. Or you could buy one for a few grand for the trip then sell it after. Bet it costs you less doing that then modding your 4runner or renting. Plus you save the wear and tear on the daily driver.
Something to think about.
#16
Thanks!!
Thanks so much for all of the responses!
I tow a ~14 foot utility/kayak trailer but it is very light. I also tow a 15' aluminum boat (also very light). At least I can say I have the experience backing a trailer, wide turns, and I know that people do stupid things to get in front of you, even f you aren't driving slow.
I do not intend on modifying my 4runner (at least anything expensive), so I think it would be a more viable option to look for a smaller, lighter trailer. I am going to be working on a halibut boat, so I KNOW I am going to want a shower every day.'
I would make the trip longer but my current job ends May 1 and I am needed in AK on May 15th.
What would people say would be the HEAVIEST (trailer + load) I should tow for that sort of a drive? I see there are some 16 ft trailers with showers that are ~2000lbs, so we could probably get away with a total of ~2500lbs.
Thanks again to everyone so much for the advice.
I tow a ~14 foot utility/kayak trailer but it is very light. I also tow a 15' aluminum boat (also very light). At least I can say I have the experience backing a trailer, wide turns, and I know that people do stupid things to get in front of you, even f you aren't driving slow.
I do not intend on modifying my 4runner (at least anything expensive), so I think it would be a more viable option to look for a smaller, lighter trailer. I am going to be working on a halibut boat, so I KNOW I am going to want a shower every day.'
I would make the trip longer but my current job ends May 1 and I am needed in AK on May 15th.
What would people say would be the HEAVIEST (trailer + load) I should tow for that sort of a drive? I see there are some 16 ft trailers with showers that are ~2000lbs, so we could probably get away with a total of ~2500lbs.
Thanks again to everyone so much for the advice.
#17
2500lb would be ok with a transmission cooler and a good brake system check. The issue would be wind resistance. Only way to know if that is an issue is to try it.
I towed 3000-4000lb cars no problem, not as nice as a full sized truck for sure but ok. They were all no more then 50 miles though.
Oh yeah, be sure to turn overdrive off.
I towed 3000-4000lb cars no problem, not as nice as a full sized truck for sure but ok. They were all no more then 50 miles though.
Oh yeah, be sure to turn overdrive off.
#18
I agree with Texas Ace, you should be pretty good with a light weight trailer.
Are you going to be based out of Homer, Seward or...?
My 4 years at Ft. Richardson were some of the best in my life. Fishing was awesome. Watch for Moose, saw them get hit a few times, get up and shake it off to see a Civic with fatalities..
Are you going to be based out of Homer, Seward or...?
My 4 years at Ft. Richardson were some of the best in my life. Fishing was awesome. Watch for Moose, saw them get hit a few times, get up and shake it off to see a Civic with fatalities..
#19
Seward or Sterling
I am still deciding between Seward and Sterling. Both jobs have benefits/drawbacks.
I think I will look for a trailer in the 2000-2500 lb range and go with a tranny cooler and definitely get my brakes checked before leaving.
I think I will look for a trailer in the 2000-2500 lb range and go with a tranny cooler and definitely get my brakes checked before leaving.
#20
Most RVs have a 6 gallon hot wate tank from what I looked at. Look for a retiree or rv park that have full hook ups. Having to go to the dump station gets old after awhile and they have great shower facilities with plenty of hot water.