What should these bolts be torqued to? anybody have a manual that says?



they are the bolts for the front cross member

or is it just "atap" (as tight as possible)

 

anybody?

 

what size is the nut?

and i would need to see the markings (if any) on the face of the nut as different markings are for different torques.....

pm me if you find out............

 

Just crank them up nice and tight (about 80ft lbs) But you need to put a BudBuilt on there I should have mine early next week...

 

It's a 17mm bolt and has the number 7 on it

i can provide pictures of the 7 if you wish

 

bump^



i got the one guy workin on it.. but in the mean time, does anybody else have any idea?

 

I'd just torque it down as tight as you can get it with a ratchet (no breaker bar)

 

According to the the factory repair manual, the number 7 on a hexagon head bolt is a class 7T bolt. The following list of torque specs is for that class. Reminder: the diameter of the bolt refers to the shank, not the head. You can get a bolt diameter gauge and a pitch gauge at almost any hardware or auto parts store.

6 mm diameter/1.00 pitch.............8 ft-lb.
8 mm diameter/1.25 pitch............19 ft-lb.
10 mm diameter/1.25 pitch............38 ft-lb.
12 mm diameter/1.25 pitch............70 ft-lb.
14 mm diameter/1.50 pitch...........108 ft-lb.
16 mm diameter/1.50 pitch...........166 ft-lb.

 

I'm confused now

 

I guess I'm confused why you're confused, if that reply was to my post. If so, let's try it again. When you refered to the bolt as a 17 mm, you probably meant that the head accepts a 17 mm socket. The bolt diameter is measured on the shank, the section of the bolt that has the threads on it. Hold a bolt up to your face like you were going to screw it into your eye. The end of the bolt that you are looking at is the diameter we've been trying to clarify.

Just to make sure this is clear, look at the smilies Corey graciously supplies for us to play with. This would be the same as looking at the end of the bolt. In the case of the smilies, they are approximately 4.75 mm in diameter. Hope this clears things up so you can get your crossmember bolted back in.

 

gotcha. i love your example

its either a 6 or an 8... thats a low torque setting for a main frame member

or is the crossmember not a main frame member?

and what is the pitch?

 

A 6 or 8 mm sounds small for that crossmember, which is a main part of the frame. I just checked the diameter of a spare bolt with a head that fits a 17 mm socket, and it is 12 mm in diameter. Take another look and see yours might also be 12 mm diameter. Another idea to determine the diameter would be to go down to the hardware store and buy a 12 mm nut, go home and see if it will screw onto the bolt. Or, if you have a 1/2" nut handy, it will start on the metric bolt about 1/8 turn before the mismatch in threads binds it up. Don't use a wrench to test this, just start it by hand. As far as the pitch, I would guess that by the way the manual lists the bolts, Toyota only used the pitch listed. Aw hell, just sell the Yota and buy a Chevy!
...I was just getting ready to submit this when I remebered that Chevy is using metric hardware too.
So disregard that last suggestion and save your money.

 

taking a closer look at it, it's either a 12 or 14, which is where 70 or 108 would sound reasonable

thanks kerry!

and be careful with those chevy comments around here...