Timing belt warning light how do you turn it off ?
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Timing belt warning light how do you turn it off ?
I have a KZN185 diesel 97 model and I believe to turn the warning light off you have to pull out the instrument cluster and swap 2 screws about. Have pulled the instrument cluster out but which screws are they - there is nothing suggesting it has anything to do with the timing belt warning light - does the screw have an initial next to it or a negative sign or what ? Help would be appreciated Cheers Beddo from Downunder.
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Beddo
I have copied this from a posting on the Ezboard site , hope they dont mind .
I just found out today how to do it!!!! This will take a while so get a cuppa or something and sit back & relax. First step is to pull the instrument cluster out of the dash. This involves about 8 screws and a dozen or so clips. Then unplug the 3 wiring plugs at the back of the cluster. Once you have the cluster out remove the Perspex cover (at all times after this is removed be very careful as the instruments & needles are very delicate). Now remove the 2 small screws on the Speedo face. Once these are removed very very carefully pry off the Speedo needle (be patient.... it will come off!) Next remove the facia from the Speedo and the clear plastic thingy underneath. Got it so far? Now, on the 10s of thousands number counter (the 6 in 60000), you will find a small gear and spring on an axle which drives a larger gear on the left hand side which is attached to a thing with numbers on it. This thing clicks over every 10 000 kays and when it reaches the right point a small cam on this thing activates a small stainless steel arm that then activates a micro switch. That is how it makes that annoying light come on! Now how to switch it off. Go back to the small gear with the spring. Slide the gear to one side and manually turn it by hand and the larger gear with the numbers on it should turn as well. Keep turning until you hear the little switch click. I think the number should probably read zero (In my excitement I didn't really pay too much attention to where it was). Now plug the cluster back in and start your car - the light should be gone. If it is still there you may have tuned it too far. If all is well put it all back together and Bobs your uncle. My Brother (a mechanic) and I did all this today by trial and error. If all else fails just remove the bloody light globe!! I hope this helps.
I have copied this from a posting on the Ezboard site , hope they dont mind .
I just found out today how to do it!!!! This will take a while so get a cuppa or something and sit back & relax. First step is to pull the instrument cluster out of the dash. This involves about 8 screws and a dozen or so clips. Then unplug the 3 wiring plugs at the back of the cluster. Once you have the cluster out remove the Perspex cover (at all times after this is removed be very careful as the instruments & needles are very delicate). Now remove the 2 small screws on the Speedo face. Once these are removed very very carefully pry off the Speedo needle (be patient.... it will come off!) Next remove the facia from the Speedo and the clear plastic thingy underneath. Got it so far? Now, on the 10s of thousands number counter (the 6 in 60000), you will find a small gear and spring on an axle which drives a larger gear on the left hand side which is attached to a thing with numbers on it. This thing clicks over every 10 000 kays and when it reaches the right point a small cam on this thing activates a small stainless steel arm that then activates a micro switch. That is how it makes that annoying light come on! Now how to switch it off. Go back to the small gear with the spring. Slide the gear to one side and manually turn it by hand and the larger gear with the numbers on it should turn as well. Keep turning until you hear the little switch click. I think the number should probably read zero (In my excitement I didn't really pay too much attention to where it was). Now plug the cluster back in and start your car - the light should be gone. If it is still there you may have tuned it too far. If all is well put it all back together and Bobs your uncle. My Brother (a mechanic) and I did all this today by trial and error. If all else fails just remove the bloody light globe!! I hope this helps.
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Wow, that was an interesting read! I never would have know that some models came with a timing belt light.
That was a great description you found Andy. It almost sounds like the dash cluster was built by Rube Goldberg himself!
That was a great description you found Andy. It almost sounds like the dash cluster was built by Rube Goldberg himself!
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Turn the light off this way
Hey Andy - your way I guess works but I found the alternative. Take the instrument cluster out and in behind the speedo there is a screw with a blank hole next to it - take the screw out and put it in this blank hole - you will have to push the screw thru a bit of gasket but it will work. Heard also you look for the screw with the red head but mine did not. Anyway thanks I'm just about to leave on a trip to a place they call the Kimberley - one of Australias remote 4WD trips - will take me about 9 days driving as I live in Sydney and I have to get to the north west coast of Australia - plenty of bulldust, corrugations, fish, crocs and fantastic scenery similair to what you would see in Crocodile Dundee or Steve Erwin (Crocodile Man). Oh yeh and plenty of beer - 9 weeks off - you bloody bewdy.
PS. if you are interested we have a 4Runner site here go to www.toyotasurf.asn.au
Cheers Beddo
PS. if you are interested we have a 4Runner site here go to www.toyotasurf.asn.au
Cheers Beddo
Last edited by beddo; 06-30-2003 at 01:31 AM.
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There is another way. If you have the digital dash there is a series of IGN key turns and pressing of the ODO reset button.
I'll dig out the details if anyone is interested.
This worked on my '98 3.0 diesel...
I'll dig out the details if anyone is interested.
This worked on my '98 3.0 diesel...
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It's times like this when I wish I could read English.
ICBW, but I think since 1990 U.S. 4Runners have used timing belts instead of chains. There has never been a 'timing belt warning lamp'. Many cars, not just Toyotas, have had 60K mile or 90K mile 'maintenance required' lamps, and there is usually a simple way of resetting them.
Something like pushing the reset button on the appropriate control box, or a combination of actions, like holding down the trip odometer, open the door, close the door, insert key 3 times, etc.... To require disassembly of the dashboard is absurd.
ICBW, but I think since 1990 U.S. 4Runners have used timing belts instead of chains. There has never been a 'timing belt warning lamp'. Many cars, not just Toyotas, have had 60K mile or 90K mile 'maintenance required' lamps, and there is usually a simple way of resetting them.
Something like pushing the reset button on the appropriate control box, or a combination of actions, like holding down the trip odometer, open the door, close the door, insert key 3 times, etc.... To require disassembly of the dashboard is absurd.
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That's pretty neat that you all have a light for that. Are those deisels an interface engine? Is it bad for them to have a belt break? I know on the 3vze, if a timing belt breaks, it's not that big a deal.
Yup, that's just what I did...
Originally Posted by ASU4runner
All of us with U.S. spec 4runners are just sitting here "uhhhhh... time belt light?"
#10
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Originally Posted by DH6twinotter
That's pretty neat that you all have a light for that. Are those deisels an interface engine? Is it bad for them to have a belt break? I know on the 3vze, if a timing belt breaks, it's not that big a deal.
Yup, that's just what I did...
Yup, that's just what I did...
I think all diesels are interface engines, because of the higher compression they have smaller combustion chambers, therefore no room for valves and pistons at the same time. When it's time to change the belt you don't want to take any chances.
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That's pretty neat that you all have a light for that. Are those deisels an interface engine? Is it bad for them to have a belt break? I know on the 3vze, if a timing belt breaks, it's not that big a deal.
Last edited by ASU4runner; 11-04-2005 at 07:45 AM.
#12
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Originally Posted by ASU4runner
All of us with U.S. spec 4runners are just sitting here "uhhhhh... time belt light?"
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 11-04-2005 at 10:30 AM.
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Originally Posted by eric-the-red
I think all diesels are interface engines, because of the higher compression they have smaller combustion chambers, therefore no room for valves and pistons at the same time. When it's time to change the belt you don't want to take any chances.
Fink
#14
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Originally Posted by 4x4Fink
Not to point out somebody's typo but do you mean interference? Maybe you're talking about something else, I was just wondering.
Fink
Fink
:pat: Yes, that's the word I was looking for
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lol. I thought it was interface. That makes sense about the diesels being interference engine. I knew they had a higher compresion, but had never put two and two together. Lean something everyday.
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Originally Posted by DH6twinotter
lol. I thought it was interface. That makes sense about the diesels being interference engine. I knew they had a higher compresion, but had never put two and two together. Lean something everyday.
What am i missing?
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You are misunderstanding how a diesel engine works compared to a gas engine:
Fundamentally, keep in mind that when air is compressed, it heats up. PV=nRT
Gas engine takes in both air and fuel, compresses it and then ignite it. Too high of compression or too low of octane will spontaneously ignite the fuel (detonation) too early in the cycle, due to too high of temperature.
Diesel engines only take in air. Compress it to very high pressure and temperature, so that the temp is well above the flash point for diesel fuel. Then, at the correct time in the piston stroke, fuel is injected directly into the cylinder and spontaneously combusts. Diesels use detonation to operate.
In older diesel designs, fuel is injected as one charge, resulting in uncontrolled cylinder pressure rise and that nasty loud knocking sound.
Most modern diesels inject several small fuel charges instead of one big one, resulting in better controlled cylinder pressure rise, less knock and vibration, more power and better fuel mileage.
Fundamentally, keep in mind that when air is compressed, it heats up. PV=nRT
Gas engine takes in both air and fuel, compresses it and then ignite it. Too high of compression or too low of octane will spontaneously ignite the fuel (detonation) too early in the cycle, due to too high of temperature.
Diesel engines only take in air. Compress it to very high pressure and temperature, so that the temp is well above the flash point for diesel fuel. Then, at the correct time in the piston stroke, fuel is injected directly into the cylinder and spontaneously combusts. Diesels use detonation to operate.
In older diesel designs, fuel is injected as one charge, resulting in uncontrolled cylinder pressure rise and that nasty loud knocking sound.
Most modern diesels inject several small fuel charges instead of one big one, resulting in better controlled cylinder pressure rise, less knock and vibration, more power and better fuel mileage.
Last edited by Unhappy99; 11-07-2005 at 12:11 PM.
#18
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Originally Posted by msw0085
Im confused.. My understanding is that engines with higher compression ratios require higher octane gasoline. This being the case, it seems like a logical extension that diesel engines have a LOW compression ratio since diesel fuel is a very low octane gasoline...
What am i missing?
What am i missing?
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 11-07-2005 at 12:03 PM.
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