1111 Front Pads $50.00 1995-99 TACOMA 2WD EXC. PRERUNN

RTOY28 Front Rotors CALL 1995-99 TACOMA 2WD EXC. PRERUNN

1149 Front Pads $50.00 1995-00 TACOMA 4RUNNER 4WD EXC. LE

RTOY29 Front Rotors $170.00 1995-00 TACOMA 4RUNNER 4WD
EXC. LE

Yikes!

 

I blead my break lines "just because"...
I bought my Runner used and as far as I knew, nothing had ever been done to the break system. The rotors were warped when I got it, and after a few thousand miles, I decided to change them and the front pads. Bleeding and flushing the system is more accurate for what I actually did. There was some air in the lines, too, much to my surprise. IMHO, its worth doing if you have the time.

 

I agree with that. It really never hurts unless you make it worse on accident.

 

I just did the rotors on my wifes 99. Very easy job. Just follow the instuctions above. It only takes slightly longer (5 mins) than doing just the pads. There is no need to bleed the brakes unless you want to. When I take the pins out of the pads I use a large screwdriver to push the pistons back in the calipers. Just make sure the master doesn't overflow. If you must bleed/flush use a power bleeder and don't push the piston down into the master cylinder and possibly scratch the seals.

 

HIghland Runner: Can you elaborate on this part? I am going to bleed because I can feel the air in the lines and the pedal travel is ridiculous, but I don't have a power bleeder - was just going to do it the old fashioned way with a buddy.

 

http://www.motiveproducts.com/ordernow_bleeders.htm
The universal model for $50 with the 1101 should be all you need. Some automotive stores carry these in stock.

 

I'm planning on buying an air-compressor driven snap-on bleeder from a guy I know (he used to own a shop), but it won't happen before next weekend which is when I am planning on doing my brakes. This is the part I am not clear on:

What do you mean by that?

 

When you are braking the piston is sliding in say only the first half of the master cylinder. The brake fluid that sits inside the master cylinder contains water which causes rust/pitting of the bore. That first half stays clean because the piston is sliding there all the time. But the lower half is rough. During bleeding you would push the piston way past the part it usually travels in. The rubber piston seal slides over this rough area and scratches it

 

Gotcha. But how does the power bleeder take care of this problem though? Aren't you bleeding the brakes at the caliper, which makes the fluid sink anyway?

 

If you do not have the power bleeder, you will be doing it via the brake pedal which, unless you put a block of wood under, could sink all the way to the floor, causing seal damage as described.

Be sure to use the old brake pad as a back stop before squeezing the pistons at the caliper to prevent seal damage there also.

 

The power bleeder pushes fluid from the container into the resivoir and then through the master cylinder, lines, etc. Nothing moves but the fluid. The piston stays in its up position.

 

Changing pads and getting your rotors machined for a 3rd Gen. is a breeze and I'm not the most mechanically inclined.

I'd have to give 2 thumbs up to Morse brand ceramic brake pads (Autozone). I use to have a real bad brake dust problem. With the new pads I have had very limited amounts of dust.

The only problem I ran into was that I totally snapped the bolts off that hold the brake line bracket on... I think it was a self-tapping bolt, anyway, I had to drill it out and put a new bolt in... no biggie, just my stupidity.

 

Sounds like you were trying to loosen the wrong bolts. There are like 2 (I think) that hold the caliper together and another 2 that hold the caliper to the truck. The ones that hold the caliper are on pretty good... I know, because I almost did what you did.

 

anyone got a pic of the two 17mm bolts that hold the caliper in place? Don;t want to start on the wrong bolts (see post above).

I plan to try this sometime maintenance sometime in the future so am trying to learn what's involved. ANyone got pics of the right tools one would need - punch/drift, 17mm sockets, breaker bar(maybe) - what else?

 

Just ordered 2 rotors (1 year warranty), and PF pads (5024) from Autozone online. Shipping was free and the total was $164 with tax.

I thought I would bring this old thread back to life since I know there is someone out there with warped rotors like me.

 

That'd be me

I have the parts on-route as well, should be here by the weekend. It would be great to know which caliper bolts to touch/not touch.

 

Just finished the install. WOW, what a difference! For those of you holding back for fear of install woes...you really have nothing to worry about. It was so easy!

 

back to the bleeding issue. if you bleed the brakes with the caliper and pads back on the rotor do you still risk scratching the seals?

 

Yes. The determining factor is air in the lines (whether or not the pedal goes all the way to the floor). You best bet is to power bleed or put a block of wood under the pedal to be safe.

 

I just installed brand new Brembos with PFC pads. After doing a first test drive I saw some mild smoke coming from the front wheels after stopping. Is this normal on new brakes?

Thanks!
-- Andrey