I am sure I can figure everything out myself, but I was wondering if you guys had any pointers before I remove and replace my crappy warped rotors this weekend. Any links to good write-ups, special tools needed, or just plain encouragement is appreciated.

I am assuming that the entire caliper assembly needs to come off (moved) and then a single screw needs to be taken out? I have done this before, but not on a 4WD.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

When I replaced my rotors about two months ago, or rather when I tried to replace my rotors, I found out that the 4WD assembly is really complicated and made up of a lot parts.

After I saw everything I had to remove, I decided to take it to a shop.

Unlike me, I'm sure you can do it but you're best bet is to have a book like HAYNES to guide you so you don't get lost.

What kind of rotors are you going for?

 

They have some at Checker with a 1 year warranty. No OEM crap for me!

 

I think you asked me this, but NAPA has LIFE TIME WARRANTY.

Fifty dollars each side.

 

I ran into a problem with my front brake job.

I tried to remove the bolts that held the caliper on, but couldn't get them free. I soaked it with PB blaster and still nothing. For some reason, I thought I could take my caliper off of the bracket. That was a big mistake because the caliper is two seperate pieces, so brake fluid went all over the place.

I got my 1/2 drive ratchet out and finally got the caliper assembly off. After that the rotor came right off.

I had to bleed my brakes after getting everything together! :pat:

 

Bleeding the brakes is a major pain.

 

This is definately an easy as hell job. First - only attempt one side at a time - that way if you get lost on something - there is something to reference back to.

I'm still on my originals rotors @ 120K. I used the Performance Friction #5024 from AutoZone. You'll also need some anti squeal lube and some high temp caliper lube.

1. Jack up front end, place on stands and remove wheels/tires.
2. If the rotors are warped - replace them. If not have someone mic them for minimum thickness - (0.787 inches).
3. Remove the small clip spring from the back side and gently tap out the slide pins using a punch/drift. Watch the anti-rattle spring as it can pop out.
4. Remove the pads, inboard and outboard along with the anti-squeal shims (2per pad).
5. The Caliper is removed by undoing two 17mm bolts on the back side. You'll probably need a breaker bar to do this. Suspend the caliper (NOT by the brake line, but use an old coathanger or wire to secure it out of the way.
6. Removal of the rotors is simply by pulling the rotor off the hub - although sometimes it is stuck by rust/dirt. A gentle, yet deliberate adminstration of force by a soft mallet will encourage it to become unstuck.
7. The new rotor is just slid into place.
8. Caliper is remounted to the bracket with torquing of the 17mm bolts to 90ft lbs and use of Loc-Tite (blue).
9. Press the pistons back in.
10. Apply antisqueal "stuff" to the back of the pads and apply the shims
11. Install pads inside caliper, replace pins, apply retainer spring clip.
12. Bleed entire brake system when completed.

Best of Luck
Andrew

 

Watson's write-up is good. The only thing I can think to add is that, while changing out the rotor, don't let the caliper "hang" by the brake line, get some tie-wire and tie it to the upper A-arm (or other convenient place) so there is no tension on the line. And, use plenty of anti-squeal lube in b/w each shim piece.

FWIW, I got the Napa Lifetime rotors for around $65 or so each, and the Napa semi-metalic pads. I've been happy with them, but I asked about the warranty, and the dood at the counter said it was only if they were a defective product. THey haven't warped yet, and its been almost 10k miles...

Also, don't forget to adjust your rear drums.

 

Watson - do your instructions apply to a 2000 4WD LTD? I read another write up on 4x4 Wire (link to writeup), and it has directions for removing the front hub, etc. Is all that necessary to replace the rotors only (since I don't need to do any work on the hubs)?

 

WatsonMD nailed it on the head, it was a rather simple thing to do, may consider painting them calipers while you got the old rotors still on less masking.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...69409763qwjspz
Dynamo, this writeup should apply to all 3rd gens unless you have added a manual hub setup.

 

The 3rd Generation Runners have sealed front hubs. So you won't have to do any maintence on this. I would imagine that the brake/rotor replacement instructions are very similar for a 2000 4wd Ltd.

I'll second the suggestion of painting the calipers after removal. During my last brake job - I painted the caliper with high temp paint and installed stainless steel brake lines from AOR. What a significant improvement in brake feel.

Just remember to bleed the brakes before heading out for the test drive.

Andrew

 

Rotors are very easy on a 3rd gen just follow Watson's writeup and you should be fine.
The 2 caliper bolts are a bitch so use a breaker bar (bolts have loctite on them!!!).
I also put loctite blue on the bolts when I put them on and be liberal with the anti-squeel.

Very important not to let the caliper hang by the brakeline!!!
I use a coat hanger or heavy duty zip-ties to hold it in place while I work.

 

Excellent, ordering some brembos now.

 

Awesome advice as usual, thanks guys!

 

I am wondering if anyone has has to replace a front bearing on their 3rd gen?
It would be nice to know about how long they last.

This is good to know.....I have bled them several times yet they feel a bit soft to my liking.
I will try this to see if things firm up a bit again.

 

I didn't see anyone mention that they had problems with their slider pins?? I DID.....

They were stuck in place and we tried many things to get them out without ruining them.... didn't work....they were bent by the time we got them out. They were rusted in there so good we need a special punch to get them out and then no one carried them in stock..... So we straigtened them out and cleaned them up.... They went back in perfect with no problems..

You might want to check into the $$$ of these and if they are not too much, then you could grab a set.

 

I dont understand why some of you guys are saying that you had to blead your brakes afterwords? That makes no sense to me.

 

Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. Unless a bleeder is opened or the system is exposed to air in any way, the brakes should not need to be bled. Even if you change pads and press in the caliper you really do not need to bleed.

Maybe the guys that did the brake line upgrade are saying this…

 

Man, I only wish replacing rotors on our 2nd Gen's was as easy as replacing them on a 3rd Gen.

You guys just get all the cool stuff...3.4L, easy rotors, superchargers! :pat:

 

check out www.raceconcepts.net for some rotors if you haven't gotten some already.