westy44runner

If you havent pushed your truck to the limits or not had any problems getting through obstacles...why the need to go bigger? I'd say do a front locker before 35s or similiar tires and spending all that time and money into making them fit...but then again if you havent pushed it to the limits and arent getting stuck alot then you dont need a front locker.

FilthyRich

I am not going to lock the front (at least now) I will be adding an M8000 this winter. That should allow me to go even farther....You all are right. The additional 1" is not worth work, since it isn't needed and there are other ways to be capable besides big.

Not that big is bad, but my $$$ will go towards the winch and trail spares. I was dremaing of 315s and one day they will be on my 4r (or some Q78/16s), but the surgery just doesn't seem work it...I still might mount some 295 Nittos

Thanks for the perspective

Crux

If you ever did go with a SAS someday, how much money would you waste tinkering with the IFS? Would that $$ be better spent going towards a stronger and more reliable solid axle?

nrgetic99

Sounds like you have your answer....

...you have a reliable, very wheelable and exceptionally nice (looks balanced to me, nothing too big or too small) looking rig.

I am sure the Mrs would prolly feel that you need to be saving money for something else right now

Leave it alone .....

David

JGM

Depending on your timing, I am in the process of preparing for a "Schaefer" style SUA-SAS. When I have all the parts and pull the trigger, I will be selling off all the stuff I used to drive my 315's (all the suspension, a-arms, as well as full front diff w/4.88's and ARB locker). Something to think about.

HOJU

I'd recomend a 2"bl just to be safe, that's what i did and i've had to do a little bending and tweaking to the drivers fender, but other than that i didn't rub at all

bamachem

and i guess that's referring to me in some way cause i have 4.56's???

c'mon cheese. i never said i wanted to run 35's on 4.56's. w/ 305's and 4.56's i'm dead nuts on stock ratios. dead on. look in the other thread where Eric was considering 4.56's and I said NO. he already has 4.30's. if he regears, then he should go to 4.88's for future 35's.

you have your original 2nd gen trans and XF case, don't you? if that is in fact true, then you can't compare a 2nd gen w/ a 3.4L with a 2nd gen trans & XF case and 5.29's to Eric's 99 with a supercharger and URD fuel mods.

on my 99, i now have the same on-road feel w/ the 4.56's as i had w/ just the SC and no fuel mods on the stock 4.10's. he'll be more likely to ping w/ tall gears and big tires, but w/ the controller he has, it will just retard timing out the yang and reduce performance.

i agree that if he does 35's, then it needs to be on a SFA. 305's or 295's on a wheeler is where the break point needs to be. anything above that needs serious surgery either now or later, but it will eventually have the surgery or die an unhappy death...

oh, and real tires? do you mean 35's or 37's??? he's running MT/R's...

Flygtenstein

No worries, I just meant to tease you a little since I thought you would weigh in here.

If I then what I know now, I would put 315's on a 2000 gear it, lock it and be done. That IFS is far superior.

I just mean to say getting a rig on 315's is doable, but it takes some work and the nature of the modification is pretty serious compared with bolting on OME stuff.

Albuquerque Jim

Giddy Up!

bamachem

i thought so, but wasn't sure...

anyway, sell your junk and buy a 00 then...

Flygtenstein

Right.

That is the other delusion. Bolt on stuff returns to stock easy. My truck stopped being bolt on several million dollars ago.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

FilthyRich

Thanks for the insight. I will wait on 315s. I don't want to redo the IFS again. It is done, barring breakage, which is completley different. My money is going towards an M8000. That should really help out in the more tricky spots. I am still thinking about locking the front and going 4.56 while ( I can unload the 4.30s to off set price)

bamachem

Since you're starting w/ 4.30's and thinking of going to 315's, I'd suggest going straight to 4.88's on the regear and skip the 4.56's.

FilthyRich

If I go to 315s it will be with a SA with 4.88s. It just doesn't make sense for me to try and make them work with IFS. Not that it is not possible, but I am not going to spend more $$$ on a setup that already works.

315s would look good, but that is not what it is about. I still don't need a SFA, but if I keep the truck and contine to wheel it like I do (on family trips) I would like a SA for strenght and piece if mind. For now new cvs and axles shafts are cheaper.

I am keeping 4.30s and will stick with 285/295/305 tire size. Time to head to Devil's Ditch for the day and see what my 4r can do

bamachem

yeah, but my point is if you regear front and rear, go w/ 4.88's the first time so you'll have the rear to match the front D44 w/ 4.88's.

that will save you about $400 in the big picture and a lot of headache having to do something twice instead of just once.

4.56's are a good match for 285's and 305's, but 295's are 34's... w/ your fuel mods, you could probably run 35's on your 4.30's and be ok. however, you'll lose your 4-lo crawl which will hurt offroad bigtime.

as the rig progresses from family duty to trail duty, get the gears as low as you can go to give you good crawl unless you're planning on twin sticks - then it doesn't matter as much.

when i eventually hang a SFA, i'll not only have to worry about the front, but i'll have to regear the rear as well. just more to worry about.

FilthyRich

I thought with the multi-mode transfer case, it was too long for twin sticks with the stock gas tank??

I really want 295s. i don't care so much about the width difference with a 295 vs. and a 315. Less breakage. Perhaps the Nittos, but a winch first--already have new tires .

FilthyRich

my own thread makes me laugh...

RIPPER

Filthy
I just put on 315s for my long road trip. I HAD to change my A-arms as the stock would prohibit the installation of the new tires. I have 2 rub points now, the mud flap and the forward part of the frame, however slight it is. The flap is easy to fix (should be just the removal of the flap itself) the frame rub I am afraid is only fixable with new wheels. I am thinking 4" BS will fix this. I have not had the oportunity to wheel it yet, as I am in the middle of moving, and wont be able to for a few months. Good luck with it.

FilthyRich