Does your washer fluid resivor have a low level sensor? Mine doesn't.

That kit is ok, no failsafe but our trucks can't really use it easily anyways. I like the extra options on the better kits as well but they are not a 100% must have.

 

Yea it has a low level sensor; it doesn't give me much time though because as soon as it comes on I have about 3 seconds worth of windshield misting action before I'm dry as a bone. That's why I was thinking of making a resivoir so as to increase the overall capacity of the system. It's good that the D.O. kit will work for me, though I do like the bells and whistles of the coolingmist set-up It would simply take too long for me to save up for it. At a certain point, I can only be patient for so long before I start itching like a crack head for the accesory that i've saving up for, you know what I'm talking about. That and my old lady would kick my arse if a $500+ meth kit showed up on the door step heh. Thanks for all of the help TA and for the quick responses and insightfull answers. You da man!

 

I actually just found these the other day, i would use one of these even if you have a low level sensor in the stock tank. Set it higher so you have at least 1/2 a gallon left before going dry to give you time to make it home.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R4...All-Categories

All sorts of options for low sensors and dirt cheap, i knew there had to be a better option out there.

These are the same thing you get with the meth kits.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Gray-Water-Level...item27bc17c919

 

I've got a tuning question for you; The wideband O2 kit that you've got, is it the kit that allows you to tune your AFR's or are you tuning with the meth and/or other tuning software? I ask because I'm starting to wonder how I'm going to get the meth kit tuned in when I get my meth, S/C, AFR gauge set-up installed.

 

The wideband doesn't tune anything, it is purely an informational tool. You use what it says to tune.

Far as how i tune my truck, The meth kit does the tuning, you have a REAL wide tuning margin with a kit like i have setup.

Basically i just adjust the controller to inject the right amount of meth so that AFR's stay at what i want. Then for fine tuning past that i mix water/meth to get the right AFR's. With the combo of using the controller settings and adjusting the pump pressure and the meth/water mix i have a LOT of control over the tune.

With my exact setup i have as much control over the tune as the URD 7th i used to run.

I try to keep AFR's in the high 11's although i might pick up a little power by going a little leaner into the low 12's i like the added safety of high 11's.

 

Okay that answer's a lot because I was watching a television program and these guys were working on a truck (forget what kind) and they installed a widband AFR sensor and then they jumped to a scene when they were tuning it and they didn't explain anything and it didn't make sense. thanks for the quick reply!

 

I'm in the process of doing this to my 94 T with the 3.0 auto. My plan is to have it set up to spray via gas petal pressure on a switch. Also figuring to start with a 3gph nozzle. with a 50/50 mix for MPG a little power and cooling for towing and acceleration using your DIY setup. I just need something simple to help with temp issues the 3.0 has and overall better performance.

I'm basically just wanting to start with a very simple kit that sprays when accelerating or pulling but will tune the switch so that it doesnt spray at normal cruising speed.

ACE how does this sound? also its a NA truck which I'm sure you know already.

 

Sounds like a plan, like i said in the OP the switch setup for an NA truck is totally up to you and a DIY setup. TONS of options on how to do it, just got to figure out how you want it done.

1 option you might try to find is a vacuum switch, this would be the easiest but would cost a little more as i could not find a good switch for cheap. Generally they will run $35 or a little more for an adjustable switch. It would be the easiest and most reliable option though.

It will help EGT's and temps under towing conditions. Also help power and remove any knock. Will also clean out your engine over time.

 

I see your sig. with the 2.0 with the 7th removed? that caught my eye !!!!hows that working out , my truck spark knocks bad before i even hit 1 psi.
i am running 2.1 pulley with bigger primary inj. and FTC. and AFR calibrator.. with my alternator relocated far out as possible with the old stlye idler pulley bracket i am making 13.5 psi at WOT..i have my timing retard 10 degree's in alot of spots and there is still hints of knock ,,, with AFR between 11 to 1 WOT and 12 to 1 closed loop boost

so to get this straight are your running completly stock injectors , fuel system, and timing on the 2.0 pulley with just methanol spray ???

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlsXE...eature=related


AFR are little off on the top end 4500 rpm is hard to tune on the street without getting arrested

 

Yep, no piggy back at all, just meth injection, and not that much of it at that. Want to run 12psi+ if i can get the supercharger to hold that kind of boost after fixing the boost leak.

Not a hint of knock at ALL and a TON more power then the 7th injector kit i used to have. Wish i had done this years ago.

It you check out the latest build thread on my truck it goes into great detail on the whole meth injection testing i did with tests showing how much better the meth injection is at stopping knock vs the 7th injector.

It also cleans out the motor over time which helps keep knock at bay and make even more power.

 

where is the build thread put a link in i cant navigate yota tech

 

Well it sounds like you have a lot of carbon build up on your motor if i had to guess. Getting that much boost is strange and can be caused be too much compression. Carbon build up will raise compression so thus it would make sense.

I bet if you ran a motorvac treatment to clean out the motor you would see big improvements across the board.

Once into boost that is a lot of boost to run on pump gas, you will have problems with that no matter what. You need something to control knock like race gas or methanol injection.

Far as my truck goes, yes. 100% stock 5vz electronics, motor, injectors, timing ect. The only performance mods i have is the SC, headers, meth injection when you get down to it. It runs as much timing with this setup as it did NA. Not a hint of knock.

Meth injection would take care of your knock once in boost for sure. The knock before boost is not right, that is due to another problem. Carbon build up is my first guess. Could also be spark plugs or hot spots. You need to fix that problem. At the least do a seafoam treatment or 3.

I actually have been considering going with a custom M90 or M112 supercharger kit with even more boost and a LOT more power or a turbo setup on my truck and still only using the methanol injection for fuel.

Wish someone made a turbo manifold for our trucks.

Here it is, most of the meth injection details start a few pages in:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...-power-222044/

 

Just made a new video on methanol injection nozzles. Gives a run down on the different options and such.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPvL0NFzFTs

 

The more I read, the more I think about doing this. Only question I have, is it possible to just run this with just a simple switch on the dash instead of a pedal switch or throttle switch? Or is it not good to run it at low rpm's?

 

You could run it with a switch on the dash but there are a lot of problems to doing that.

It will use a LOT more then needed.

It will wear out the pump a lot faster

It will run really bad at idle/low RPM's

If you left it on by mistake with the engine off you could hydrolock it.

Overall, it is not worth it, just use a throttle switch or fine a vacuum switch. I know they exist I just didn't have time to find one.

 

I just had a thought come to mind. (I know, me thinking? Scary huh?) But let's say once I have my supercharger and method dialed in and winter rolls around again am I going to have a problem with ait's being too cold? Cause if it is say like 5* outside, wich it does get colder than that, is my throttle body or something else going to freeze if I am spraying meth as well? Effectively dropping an already freezing ait?

 

Highly unlikely. Methanol doesn't freeze till like -150 plus the intake/TB/Supercharger are connected to the engine and will be hot. Not like you will be boosting on a cold engine anyways right?

By the time you would be how enough to boost, any worries of things freezing will also be gone.

 

I was more worried about the throttle Linkage or butterfly freezing. I know the meth will not freeze. That is part if the reason I have not done the throttle body bypass mod. In winter I need that heat. I was just thinking about it cause coming back from my trip to Oregon my grill had inch thick build up of snow/slush and it got me wondering if I would have a buildup of ice on the intake. But then again I forgot about heat induction...

 

Well, if the meth is not freezing to the TB then what is? lol.

Also in colder weather like that the meth will not drop temps near as much. I had no problems last year with my truck and it got into the 20's a few times.

 

I was think more of ambient air humidity freezing inside the throttle body.