last time running with a carb




off comes the intake



super high flow EGR




as it sits right now




tomarrow i will get the head off and strip anything carb related from the engine compartment, no turning back now!

 

Lookin good

Are you going to go with an analog setup (08/83-08/84) or digital (09/84-)? I have the analog setup that came from the factory (2wd) and love it. Seems to be more relaible, parts are cheaper, and I get better gas milage (36+ on the highway)

I've got the entire microfiche set for all 84-88 trucks and 84-89 4runners that the toyota dealerships used, so feel free to ask if you need any parts cross referenced. Good luck!!

 

why are you gonna take the head off? efi head diff?

 

no, luckily i have an '84 which has the holes for the EFI manifold, i am taking it off because I'm going to swap cams which means i have to take out all of the head bolts, i dont know the history of the motor so i figured i would replace the head gasket now when i have everything apart

 

im going with the 85-87 system

 

day 2:

head bolts out and rocker arm assembly off, ready to pull head



i almost forgot about the 12mm timing cover bolt, i can see why everybody forgets about it, you cant see it



there it is



off it comes, it was stuck on there pretty good, the front dowel was hanging up a little, but after prying and whacking with a rubber mallet it finally came off



head dont look too bad, a little carbon build up, it has Toyota valves in it so they could be original, but i have a feeling that this is not the original motor with 230,000 miles on it, but who knows its a Toyota



bye bye smog pump



thats it for now, tomorrow i will start scraping gasket from the block and head, and helicoil one of the exhaust manifold bolt holes...

 

Update:

got the head and block surfaces clean

here is my '84 22r head with the lower half of a EFI intake bolted on, and EFI cam installed



here it is torqued on the block




my goals for tomorrow is to get the in-line fuel pump mounted and get the fuel lines routed and get the injectors and fuel rail hooked up, and start on the wiring, i "hope" to get this thing running by Monday, if everything goes well it should happen..... i hope so

 

waiiit...did you swap in an aftermarket cam or put on a cam from an EFI engine? for the most part, the profiles were all the same...

 

I wish my project were as fun....

I sprung a coolant leak earlier this week .. UNDER the manifold somewhere.

SOOoo...Out came the wrenches, and off came the intake. Not an easy task with the A/C Compressor in the way, so .. YOINK!! off it came! (didn't work anyway ) AAAaand, while I was at it.. YOINK!! off came the smog pump, with the manifold close behind.

AHHhhhhh.. I can actually SEE the engine now....


AND the leak...


(Closeup for the visually challenged)


Amazingly enough, the old 'Coarse-ground pepper' trick worked like a charm on this leak. the first time I saw it, water was literally SPRAYING out (but I couldn't see from where.) I threw in about a heaping tablespoon of pepper, and It held for three days till i could tear it apart!! ( It still lost coolant, but I was able to make my 20 Mi. commute and only lose about 1/4 gallon )
Hopefully the local parts stores will have the needed hose in stock tomorrow. I just wish I had a better understanding of all this spaghetti-hose emissions junk, so I could figger out what to block-off/re-route/eliminate.

 

i put in a stock Toyota EFI cam, the lift is the same between the carb and EFI cams but they have a different duration, Ive heard that they dont run as well with a carb cam in a injected engine

 

1st time running with fuel injection





i got a "check engine light" now



i thought that the wiring was going to be the hardest part, but in reality it wasn't, i only had to hook up 2 wires to constant power, and 3 to key on power, thats it, it runs great has slightly more power than the carb, and can run at any angle

 

Very nice mod, congrats on pulling it off so nicely, I wish the 5VZ-FE was so easy to disassemble as yours .

Anyways, so is the check engine light gonna be there forever just because of the swap, or is it because of something else? Do you plan on replacing the ECU?

 

it was there because i forgot to hook up the knock sensor, after i hooked it up it hasn't came on since, and Ive put about 20 miles or so on it

 

congrats! you made that look easy!

 

Kudos on the finished product, great thread too, lots of pics. very informative.

 

Good to know!