About two weeks ago, my 02 4Runner failed to start after dropping off my pooch prior to vacation. I was able to get a jump from my friendly kennel owner and off I went. The odd thing was with the key in & not turned on there was a clicking sound( as if my hazards were on) from the fuse box next to the battery. Had to leave for vacation for a week and luckily not driving that vehicle.

After returning home, I totally forgot about it and drove the truck for 3 days before it did not start again on Tuesday morning, no clicking or anything. I put battery on charger, but keep getting the clicking sound from fuse box. Whenever I hook up the battery charger the relay starts clicking. My smart charger says the battery is 11.5 volts.

Is my starter relay bad, or solenoid, or starter? How can I isolate the problem?

I have some corrosion around my positive terminal that I will clean first to make sure I have good connection.

Thanks for your help in advance!
Paul

 

I was able to jump to get started, does this rule out bad starter or solenoid and assume battery may have bad cell or is it possible that a bad starter relay could be draining the battery?

 

Can you isolate which relay is doing the clicking? There are a lot of relays in that box. Just put your finger on top of each of the black boxes in fuse box. At the moment, it sounds like you have a parastic drain, possibly due to a faulty relay, and that is draining your battery, but more diagnostic work needs to be done. In the meantime, try leaving the ground cable off the battery when you park the truck at night. If it starts strong the next day, that tends to confirm parasitic drain.

Also, when you connect and disconnect battery ground with key off (and everything else off), do you hear any relay clicks? You shouldn't, so if you do, try and track down which one.

 

A bad ground wire will cause that problem. It might be time to replace the black battery cable. Battery acid will migrate down the wire and reduce its conductivity. Its happened to me at least two times before on other vehicles. Sometimes washing the battery terminals with a water and baking soda paste will help neutralize the acid but its the corrosion under the plastic wire sheath that is the problem. The 4' cable can be had at auto parts stores for about $10.

 

Check the battery and the cable connection to the starter. Common problem is worn starter contacts. Which are replacable. Usually there is a period of time before they go completly where you have to turn the key a couple of time before you get the starter to go. Sorta of a warning sign.
The contact replacement can be done for under a $100 do a search on here. It's a 3 hour DIY job to disasemmble / reassemble. And $500 if you take it to Toyota.

 

That shouldn't happen until you turn the key to engage the starter. But if the click click happens with just the key in ON position, its probably a loose or bad ground cable.

 

Thanks for the replies. I will definitely inspect ground wire and connections.

I think the clicking relays was due to low battery. I took to autozone for test.....battery was low, but alternator only putting out 12.25 volts. I know its the original w/ 212k miles.

Do you guys recommend rebuilding Denso OEM ( new brushes & inspect bearing) or purchase off brand Reman? I know those Denso OEM Alternators are very good quality. I can get the brush holder for $10 online.

 

Do you have an aftermarket alarm installed?

 

I prefer the factory alternators.

 

Denso reman is $130 on rockauto.com

 

I just bought the TYC new alternator. they are an OEM supplier. its working great so far. cheaper too

 

No aftermarket alarm.

 

after fully recharging the disconnected battery, my multimeter is showing battery is at 13.2v with truck off & 14.2v with truck running.

After turning everything on it dropped to 14.1 ????

 

Looks good to me. Amperage is a better test but if you have 14 volts you're probably good. Drive it like you stole it!

 

So did I, but I just shipped a reman Denso back to rockauto because when it got warm it put out 16.5v. It tested fine when cold but the regulator must have been faulty. It was still within 30 days warranty so I switched it for the new TYC alt.

 

16 volts? That's not good! Only a 30 day warranty? That's not good either!

 

After removing alternator, to replace brushes I notice the bearing had some play.

Like you said, after 10 yrs & 212k miles, just a matter of time before other parts wear out & I'm doing the same job over again & cussin like a mother &$!@!

I replaced with reman Denso from Advanced Auto w lifetime warranty.
$85 & Done!

Running like a charm!

Thanks for the feedback guys!!

Paul