Thanks to TA and others for advice a long the way. I'm LOVING the setup. I performed some data logs and picked up several degrees of timing and was able to drop down to the 2.1" pulley. This means A LOT more power and consistency when I'm WOT. The truck just seems over all happier.

I'll update this thread next weekend with Part 2 of the video.

 

Does the washer fluid already have a lot of methanol in it? I ask because buying it and yellow HEET seems like an expensive alternative to distilled water and racing methanol by the gallon.

 

I go over the content and costs in Part 2 which I'll publish next weekend, but the answer is "it depends".

-20 has about 30% methnol in it and Heet is 99% methanol. Adding the two you get about 38-40% methanol. I can get a gallon of -20 washer fluid and 12oz of Heet at about 10 places within 5 minutes of my house for $3 total. That's pretty cheap.

If you have a race shop close that sells pure methanol for a cheap price, then yes. However the only place I could find methanol sells 5 gallon pails for $37 and it's over an hour from my house. 37/5 = $7.40 per gallon for methanol. Distilled water is 89 cents a gallon locally.

At the same ratio as the -20 and Heet solution you're at about $4 a gallon rather than $3 for the -20 and Heet so in my circumstance the -20 and Heet is 25% cheaper give or take a few pennies.

I got lucky and found some -25 washer fluid on clearance for 97 cents a gallon. I bought nearly all the place had, so I came in even cheaper now.

 

Part 2

 

Again I wouldn't use the Smurf piss as it has detergents and god knows what else in it that are harmful to internal engine components and supercharges, Pure 100% Methanol and distilled water 50/50 are well known to produce better safe long term power, the meth atomizes assisting the burn and cooling reducing knock at high PSI and the water produces steam power and assist with cooling and neither leave harmful corrosive deposits, Aluminum and metals doesn't like Pure Methanol and will corrode internals. Glad you put a check valve close to the nozzle as it will suck the fluid right out of the reservoir when you don't want it to, and won't shut down when you get off the boost quick enough. Turbo chargers don't have as much to worry about as crank case pressure always oils the intake system leaking a bit of oil out of the oil lubricated turbo and H2O/Meth 50/50 is added after the Turbo, your forcing Meth through a supercharger so you should take extra steps to insure your using a safe mix.

 

SO much misinformation in that post bud. No check valve in this system either, it uses a solenoid. I hate to see people post stuff like this like it's gospel and a lot of it is in fact incorrect info. If you want to pay $8 a gallon for pure 50/50 water meth be my guest.

 

That shiny push connect fitting looked like a check valve on your intake,. But in hindsight it isn't as important on a Supercharger as it is absolutely needed on a turbocharger, so my bad. The solenoid is electrical and turns on the pump in most installs I've seen in the past 15 years of racing and running Meth, a mechanical solenoid that stops fluid, interesting, typically they work on boost pressure signalling the pump to turn on and pump meth to your check valve and then nozzle(s), this also stops drain back into the reservoir so your not pumping air and your pump is primed at all times.. Your pump cannot be trusted as a check valve, but if you have a new mechanical solenoid/check valve just off the pump I'd like to see that!!,(again it should be mounted as close to the nozzle regardless though) does it also turn the pump on and off at a pre-set boost level,.. seems kinda redundant doesn't it...

Your set up will actually Siphon the fluid out of that line into the reservoir everytime you shut the truck off without some sort of check valve or fancy mechanical inline shut off solenoid, so the first time you come on the boost you set to run meth at, you will actually be adding air to the system for a split second before the fluid reaches the nozzle, minor yes, in racing it counts, and it could induce a lean condition at the worst time possible buy adding air and not supplying meth/fuel that you've been tuning it for.

Can you post a close up picture of this new fancy solenoid, I've never heard of a mechanical solenoid that opens and closes the meth supply line and turns the pump on-off at the same time very interesting, but again unnecessary.

And thats what it costs now for 100% meth, back in the day when Meth first started out it was $3 for 4L, demand has caused it to skyrocket.
But hey what do I know about running meth @ 30psi, its only been 15 years and running strong now.

And they call it smurf piss for a reason, not trying to offend, its common knowledge that its crap and not smart to run in a engine that you want to keep.

*Now lets do the math according to your #'s, 20% meth in 4L of Smurf Piss doesn't go as far as 100% meth in 4L @ $8.00 of pure Methanol and would cost you more, especially if you 50/50 water/meth, so now its down to $4/4L 50/50... whereas Smurf piss is $3/4L of 79% crap

* And if you could point out where I "misinformed" you that would be greatly appreciated for the masses, I'd hate to pass on false information

 

I dont have time to correct everything you posted. My videos cover everything in detail. If youre trying to solve for a $40,000 race engine youre on the wrong forum. Before dismissing someones recommendation you should do some research so youre actually posting relevant info for consumption. Check MSDS sheets for example :-)

As for being offended, it's the internet LOL. I've got thicker skin than that.

 

Wait, what? What?

 

I'm sure I have lots to learn, been awhile since I looked into H2O/Meth and MSDS sheets after I finished EPT, just wanted to offer my experience so you got the biggest bang for your buck.

"Wait,what?, What?" Its hard to control Crankcase pressure at 8000rpms and up on a oil lub turbo charger, not impossible, but difficult, and very common for a bit of oil to leak past Forced Performance Turbos outlines here
Again, Methanol is corrosive to aluminum under certain conditions described here http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=39643

Awesome truck, sorry to bother.

 

No bother I just don't want folks to become confused and it didn't appear you actually watched the two films. The fluid I'm using is 30% methanol and 69% water according to MSDS. The other 1% is blue dye. I cover this in the video. I also show the percentage of methanol after adding a 12 fluid oz bottle of Heet. The fluid chosen is cheap, easy to find, and works with no concerns. I did finally find a shop 2 hours away that sold 5 gallon pails of pure methanol and picked one up for grins. It was $38 making it more expensive and more labor intensive to get and mix. If you have it for $3 a gallon down the street from your place then it makes sense. For my situation, and likely many others, not so much.

Happy boosting :-)