Yep, that'd be my next step. The guy today kept focusing on the SC being warrantied with the remainder of my power train. What I need to find out is if burned valves are warrantied haha.

I'm 70% sure I'll do the install myself. Just looking at all options.

 

I've been reading over the SC install instructions. For those that did it themselves, how many of you had to "clear, ie tap" the bolt locations for the dynamic belt tensioner bracket? I'm referencing page 9 step 3.

 

I seem to remember needing to do that. The last thing you want is for the bolt to bottom out on crud before it gets a clamping preload. Evidently those bolts are pretty hard to find too if you damage or break it, one guy posted up last week looking for one said he had to buy a whole new tensioner just to get the bolt that he broke.

 

Ok, will look for proper tap just in case. How accessible are these bolt locations? Looks like they'd be hard to get to with a tap with the motor in the car.

 

Well I did it with the engine out of the truck, but surely there's enough room to get a tap in there without too much trouble.

 

Yeah, there is... I _didn't_ do it when I first installed the SC and I had to use a couple of washers to make up the distance.

During the rebuild I did it when I put the top end back together, and the engine was already back in the truck.

 

One other question. Can I re-use the stock manifold gasket per the instructions or do I need a new one?

Page 7 step 24.

 

Yes, you can reuse it... That thing is built like a tank.

 

Cool, and it is definitely a 10 x 1.25 tap right? I only question it because I've found a discrepancy or two in the instructions already contradicting themselves. If you're not sure that's fine, I'll take one of the bolts in to match it up.

Like not installing the one way valve in the IAC on 2001 and newer when later (page 11 step 1).

 

dood, I dun't remember... I did what you're talking about - took the bolt and matched it up on the fly. Actually, Technically, my buddy did it.

 

I'm pretty sure it's 10 x 1.25, but the threads on mine are RUSTY. I'll have to go pick up a tap if I'm gonna do this myself.

Looking it over tonight, how do you remove the fan belt? Looks like the fan has to come off first?

 

Loosen up the alternator bracket, that adjusts the tension on the drive belt, once you have enough slack in the belt it will slide off the pulley.

 

So you fish it around the fan blades once it's off the pulley? I see how it will come off the pulleys, but how it can be removed? The fan "looks" a lot larger in diameter than the belt, although I guess looks can be deceiving.

 

Should be able to, at least a few blades at a time huh. I have a e-fan myself.

 

By the way.....SportRunner's website is now up and running...

http://hooliganbiketech.net/sportrunner/

 

Are you talking about to replace the belt with the longer one for the SC? Oh, you're gonna love this...

That belt is on the BACK of the bottom pulley. You get to take off the first two to get to the last one.

Do you have your skid plate on? Pull it off and take a look from underneath, it'll become scary clear to you.

 

Yeah, that's what I'm talking about. One of the first things in the install instructions is to remove the three belts. I changed out belts on my 2.4L 4cyl once and it wasn't too bad, but I don't see how to get the belts off due to the fan. I'm hoping it will become obvious when I start removing them.

I found the bolt holes for the dynamic tensioner. I definitely need to tap at least the cast iron one. The aluminum one looks ok, but I'll run the tap down it just for good measure since I'll already be there with it. There's room, but just barely on the cast iron one if you move the wiring bracket out of the way.

 

Oh, you WILL have to remove the fan... Though I guess though that Dale has a point about being able to snake the belts off, but pulling the fan is like a 10 minute job with a box end, 5 minutes if that box end ratchets. I'd pull it and save the grief.

 

Ok cool. I looked in both the Haynes and Factory service manual. Neither describes how to do it to any detail. The fan just comes off with the 4-5 bolts at the front pulley no? Nothing tricky about it?

 

The only tricky part might be holding the fan still while breaking the nuts loose, so you might do that before you remove the drive belt to help hold the fan from turning. There is a slight chance the studs may decide to come out before the nuts move.