I feel the same way about mine. Newer cars will come in and out of my life but the 4Runner will always be around.

 

Ditto that here. Got big plans for mine down the road as well but I see it sticking around till either the wheels fall off or it gets passed down to my grandkids.

 

Yep, it's just a great vehicle. Mine is 11 years old this year and I've had it for 10 of those, not a single problem. Sometimes I miss the modern tech in my newer cars like blue tooth, etc, but not enough to make me wanna get rid of it. I'd actually like to shoe horn a supercharged 5.7 out of a Tundra in it one of these days.

 

I would turbo what you got before doing that. There is a guy making over 550ft lb and 425whp on a bone stock 5vz with a piggy back and turbo kit and beats the heck out of it and not a single issue.

Here is a video of his truck back when it was in the mid 300whp range.


Makes me glad I decided to go turbo, now if I could just get the funds together to finish the project.....

 

I feel the same way, but the reality is my Android tablet mounted nicely on my dash and a bluetooth headunit gives me the same or more technology capabilities as our brand new Acura, although the the stuff in the 4Runner can be more easily upgraded as tech changes than the Acura-specific stuff in the car.

Speedy, I'd love to see a screenshot of your fuel table.

 

I'll add to the off-topic sentiment that the 4Runner will never die.

I've had mine since late '99, almost 14 years now, and with a recently transplanted 5vzfe in it with less than 100K on it, I don't think I'll ever let mine go.

Like TA, I have some big plans down the road when my financial situation is a little different. Until then, it's my DD and I wouldn't trade her for anything.

 

I noticed something the other day. At sea level where I live, my AFRs drop to around 13:1 above 3 psi when in closed loop--the URD "closed loop fuel enrichment" feature making this possible of course. The other day I was at 8,000 ft in elevation and on my stock pulley max boost at that altitude is 5 psi. Unless I floored it, I couldn't get the AFRs to drop below 14.7:1, which got me to wondering...the URD box is set to start closed loop fuel enrichment at 3 psi, and while I was at 4-5 psi gauge pressure, is the URD box converting this to atmospheric pressure? 4-5 psi of gauge pressure wasn't triggering the 3 psi closed loop fuel enrichment at 8,000 ft.

Anyone else experience this at altitude?

 

I have a 1st gen factory installed TRD Supercharger on my 1999 4Runner LTD. I'm the second owner. I'm not sure where the 7th injector would be installed, if it has one. Attached is a picture of a round aluminum case attached to the firewall which has fuel running to it but no electrical hookup. Any help is appreciated. At 200K + it just blew out an injector on cyl 3 and they are all in sad shape. It's time to give it a bit more love. Thanks for any help.

 

It would be located below that #6 tape where the plate is. You don't have one.

 

Texas_Ace: Thanks for the reply. So that aluminum cylinder must be a fuel line booster? Does anyone know where I can get the original installation instructions, data sheet and owner's manual (if there were any for the 1st gen)?

 

Yes, that would be a rising rate FPR. Supposed to help the lean out issue when you add the boost but IIRC the stock fuel pump can't keep up with it so it didn't work quite as good as it should.

 

I can only find the 2nd gen install instructions and specs. I'll keep looking for gen 1 docs but diffences are mostly in the vaccuum lines and lack of a belt tensioner.
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamo...4LSCInstal.pdf

 

I posted the 1st gen install manual on here a few years ago if you search.

 

Well, at 94K and change my FACTORY tires are finally starting to look a bit worn. I'm starting to contemplate what tires to replace them with on my Ivan Stewart 16x8 wheels. I'm thinking the Bridgestone Revo2 AT?

Wonder if I should put a mild lift on it for grins and do a bit larger tire? Maybe I should start a new thread LOL

 

Personally I like the stock ride height with bigger tires. Looks aggressive IMO.

 

Are you kidding me? I was thrilled to get 60K out of my last set of tires. Dueler AT Revo2's are a good all-around tire. If you want slightly more aggressive I also really like the BFG AT KO's. And yet more aggressive but still an all-terrain points to the Cooper Discoverer STs (just installed mine last month).

Personally, if you're going to do a mild lift, I would go slightly more aggressive on the tire than the Revo2. I'm happy with my 2.5" Sonoran Steel System 7. And here it is with my slightly larger 275/70R17 Cooper STs. LINK There is no comparison in the ride before and after the lift; the entire truck just rides and works better.

 

Yeah, honestly I'm baffled. I've done burnouts and everything else with the blower and the stock tires are still going strong. They're just now at the wear bars! Stock brakes too!

Over the fall I'm planning to do the lift, Tundra calipers with EBC slotted and dimpled rotors and some Hawk pads and the lift and tires (maybe). I may push them to the limits and see just how many miles I can get out of these components, but in the wet things are getting a bit interesting and the brakes shudder harshly these days.

Do you have more pictures of your lift/wheel/tire setup? I've heard a lot of good things from the Sonaran Steel stuff but there seems to be so many options it's easy to get confused on what's what. I've been eyeballing the Toytec Ultimate lift personally. I'd start a thread on it but I'm sure the last thing this forum needs is another "what lift should I get" thread.

 

You probably hold the record for the most miles on a set of tires, especially amongst us supercharged folks.

I don't own the Toytec but there are a couple of things I don't like as much about their kits. First, I would rather have a standard coil over strut, as opposed to a coilover assembly. I hang onto my stuff for a long time and I have this feeling that when it's time for a new shock, replacement parts for the old coilover kits will no longer be available. I've had my Sonoran Steel 7.1 since 2006 and I recently changed-out the front shocks for new Bilstein 5100s (I just upgraded to the same shock Steve uses in today's kits), and am still running the original Tundra coils installed 7 years ago.

I also like that the SS kit comes with the adjustable panhard bar, extended brake line, and best of all, the rear bumpstops. The bumpstops made the biggest difference in my truck's ride overall. When I'm loaded offroad and hit high speed bumps, the truck no longer bounces on those hard Toyota bumpstops, instead, there's a nice progressive squish that feels great.

The ride, overall, is great too; many people have been surprised about how it rides. It's far better than it ever was stock. I know there are a lot of happy Toytec customers out there too and there stuff is worth a look. I just preferred the SS kit a little more.

There are some pics in my build thread here: paddlenbike's build thread.

I have too many photos of my 4Runner, so if you're looking for a specific type of shot, let me know. I'm excited that you're starting another rounds of modification on your trusty 4Runner!

 

I just spent the last hour reading your build thread. VERY good stuff. You're particular about things like I am and do them right.

Thanks for the thoughts on the lift. I keep things for quite a while too, because I take care of them, and think about down the road parts availability as well. I was assuming Toytec used readily available parts, but after reading up I'm liking that the SS kits use Toyota parts that we know will be around. I'll go with the 7.2 kit when it's time.

It says the kit is adjustable, how does it actually adjust?

I'm going to keep my Ivan Steward 16x8 wheels. Reckon 265/75R16 tires?

I'll likely do the lift first, then go down and get the tires replaced. It'll likely be an over the winter project so I'm doing my research now and will start parts collection next.

I also plan to do the Tundra Brake Upgrade as well.

This 4Runner has treated me good for nearly 10 years and I've not had to put a dime in to it really, so I don't mind spending a few dollars on it now to upgrade things as they're wearing.

I've still not done the timing belt, so that's on the list as well. However with it being a non-interference engine, I'm not overly concerned.

I really like the stance of this one, but the tires may be a bit too big for my use.

 

Thanks, I have thought the same about your build. Do you know that I have read your TRD SC tuning page probably 30 times? The information you provided is better than the URD U-tune guide and better than any information I've read on the forums. I have a few URD tuning posts going on the web and as hard as I've tried, I never get any responses. I was hoping a few people would post their timing and fuel charts, just from curiosity-sake, but no one has. The conclusion I've come to is that you and I are the only ones that have done cell-by-cell tuning in the R4 software.

I am using your tuning method too--OBD-II fuel trim screen showing along with the Innovate wideband display on the screen simultaneously, all being recorded by camstudio. Works great.

That's the idea...use as many off-the-shelf parts as possible.

The advantage of a coilover is infinite adjustment height. Of course the downside is those threads get blasted by road debris and eventually become non-adjustable. The SS kit is adjustable in five steps as there is a lock ring that sets the bottom perch. Some people use the lowest perch with OME 906 coils, SS7 folks like me use the 2nd perch with OME 890 coils and some use the 3rd perch with the taller OME 891s.


I ran that size for many years and there aren't many disadvantages. The next step up is a 285 and that's a big jump with fuel mileage consequences. That's exactly why I moved to a 17" wheel so I could run a 275/70R17, which is exactly inbetween the 265/75R16 and the 285 in both height and width. If you want to stick with the 16" wheel, you would probably be happiest with the 265/75R16. There is going to be slightly more fender-well gap than ideal, but you can see what that looks like in my build thread.

I'm at 128k and haven't done mine either. I think you have far less mileage than that. I'll wait until the waterpump starts to leak or the idler bearing starts to get loud, or 160,000 miles, whichever comes first. If it were an interference engine and/or belt breakage was common, I wouldn't wait.

Keep up the good work.