I ditched the URD map, it was WAY off for my truck. Start over from scratch and got a much better tune.

The URD system does not have a lot of resolution. A small change in a cell can equal a big change in AFR. Part of the reason I am not real hip on it but it works.

Takes a while to figure it out. I would recommend starting from scratch and building the tune yourself. Get a friend to help drive, find an empty backroad that you can pull over easily (single biggest thing I hate about the URD) and spend a few hours working on it.

In my case I got the tune surprisingly close just by inputting some educated guesses for numbers int he 4 "corners" of the map I intended to use and then using the interpolate option.

After a little playing around I adjusted those corner numbers and kept re-interpolating as I saw when and where the ARF's were off. After a little work this got the tune very close. Then got to go in and tune the particular cells, this is where the lack of resolution becomes a hassle.

 

TA,
I pulled the maps just to see what I had as a starting point. The pre-loaded map is not getting me the fueling I need, although I must admit that since I still have a full tank of fuel I'm still on the stock fuel pump. (And quite frankly it will be late October before I have time to change it.) I am not sure what effect that has on my fueling but values of 1.1 and a max of 1.2 probably aren't high enough any way.

That said the timing map is pretty good. It cured 80%+ of my pinging, so I will probably just fine tune that one. The pre-loaded timing map has a maximum value of 3.8 degrees of timing retard at 6 psi.

I'm having issues with my Windows Vista laptop. The serial-to-USB adapter successfully installs and assigns the Com4 port, then when I follow the instructions and try and connect to the AIC-T, Vista crashes. I have an OEM copy of Windows XP at home, should I finally ditch Vista?

I need the following devices to work:
- 2 serial-to-USB adapters
- Split Second R4 software for tuning
- Innovate wideband software
- BR-3 OBD-II software

Since these are older products I might have better luck with XP over Windows 7???

 

Wow, you are still on vista? Boy do I feel bad for you.

Yes, if you have a tuning laptop go back to XP 32bit, it is the most compatible. If you use the computer for other stuff go with windows 7, 1000x better then vista and besides the 64bit version not being 100% backward compatible with all the old apps, it is much better then XP as well. Could try windows 7 32bit, it works with most newer devices.

Once you start playing with the fueling you will see how a small change can make a big difference. I would start by adding say 50% to everything and see where you sit and adjust from there.

For the timing I would take more timing out if you are still getting ping. As a rule of thumb you want to be 2 degrees or more below the timing that caused audible ping. You should not need to do much with the timing above 3k rpm but under that it will have an effect.

 

i thought 10 was a neutral siginal for the URD calibrator?

 

Not sure what you are talking about?

 

10 is neutral for the older 6 injector setup, 0 is neutral for the 7th injector setup for TIMING.

 

Okay I wiped Windows Vista off my computer and installed XP Pro...suddenly all my peripherals that haven't worked for years now work just fine. I'm a 5-speed and tuning in 3rd gear; tuning in 4th is not practical, the speeds are just too high.

My baseline runs showed AFRs in the low to mid 13s to redline in 3rd, so I added some fuel and now I'm seeing low 12s under the same conditions. I added between 0.1 milliseconds to 0.4 milliseconds at what I consider my peak load condition--6.5 psi and 5500 RPMs. I figure if I add another 10% across the board I should be around 12:1 through third gear and I'm guessing that would put me in the high 11:1s in 4th gear.

The table below shows the URD basemap and the one below is my adjusted map. The gray area is simply the range I am looking at most.

It is far from "tuned," but I'm happy that 5 minutes worth of adjusting and uploading has at least got me in the ball park. When I get closer I will start AFR logging and tuning cell-by-cell, but so far this is going better than expected.

 

Yeah, got a lot more work, much better off adding too much fuel now and then taking it out slowly. I would want it to be 11.5:1 across the board or richer before I started tuning.

Also you will most likely need to add some fuel under 3k to keep knock at bay. Having correct AFR's in the low RPM's is just as important if not more so.

You also want to run the fueling out past whatever boost you are getting now. On cold days you will get more boost then normal. So tune out to at least 2psi higher then you expect to hit.

 

I wanted to correct my mis-statement above. Gadget had originally sent me the incorrect wiring diagram for my truck, so there was NO connection to the O2 sensor at all to make the closed loop enrichment feature work. I emailed him and he replied with a wiring diagram for my model year truck, one diagram is for a 2000 model year with California emissions that *taps* the AFR sensor in the newer trucks, and another wiring diagram for the 2000 federal emissions model that *intercepts and modifies* the O2 sensor signal. When I say "taps" vs "intercepts," what I mean is the Cali version has one tap connection to the AFR sensor whereas the Fed Emissions version requires you cut the factory O2 wire and run that signal into the URD piggyback and back out to the factory ECU...i.e. 2 connections vs 1 connection on an AFR truck.

So in essence, the URD AIC-T will do closed loop mixture control on either an O2 sensor truck (Fed emissions) or an AFR (Cali) truck when you have the proper wiring diagram.

 

i just bought a 1996 tacoma 3.4 with the trd charger 4.88 gears on 33s.it is gettin VERY poor mpg.i know i need exhaust bc its rusted to peices so imma get new cats and o2 sensors and it also needs a knock sensor.anything else i could do to improve my mpg???

 

What mileage is it getting now?

 

its getting 10 mpg right now.its throwin knock sensor code and o2 codes

 

Well then I guess you know your problem. Fix those and it should be ok. Although with those mods don't expect too much from it.

 

also i have seen people saying i need the 1997 ecu.im thinking about goin with the udr 6 injector fuel and timing upgrade.would i still need the 1997 ecu if i got the udr??

 

Ah, I missed the 96 part, that is most likely the root cause of your problems. The 96 is not supposed to be supercharged as the ECU doesn't play nice and the engine has head gasket issues.

I don't think you can just swap the ECU out, pretty sure it is more involved then that.

 

ok another question.i called gadget and he said i need the 1997 ecu for sure....do i need the ecu from a supercharged 1997 or just a regular v6 1997??

 

There is no such thing as a supercharged ECU, also make sure that it is truly a plug and play swap.

 

I have a 5vzfe swap in my 89 4runner. I want to supercharge my truck but have heard that it wont work for my application. Also I have heard that the 96 blows head gaskets. I was hoping that one of you guys could shead some lite on the issue of compatibility.
thanks
Jonathan

 

96's and even some 97 5VZFE's had an external flaw in the pass side HG, causing coolant to run down the block if it failed. It's not some catostrophic failure. That being said, if a HG was to go, it would prob go on a 97+ as well, but due to tune, not quality of the gasket per se.

My 96 has been going just fine for 50K miles using the mods listed in my profile link. 97 ECU wasn't needed.

 

Well, here it is over 6 years after starting this thread and the 4Runner is still plugging along like a champ. Still powerful, still smooth, and the only issue I've had is a failed O2 sensor.

I'm still on the original brakes and tires at nearly 93K miles. Unbelievable.

I love this little truck and doubt I'll ever get rid of it.