Thanks, I will go get the Belkins...too many of these adapters don't work.

And you'll laugh at what I was trying to use, my old 600mHz Dell laptop with 512MB RAM, lol.

 

I have a windows XP instance running on a macbook, still pretty impressed that it actually works.

Anyways, an alternative to the belkin.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

This cable works great, comes with a driver disk. Only negative about it is the cable is a little short. I have one on my innovate wideband and another going to the URD AIC.

 

I went to buy the Belkin and all dozen of them on the shelf had been opened and returned. The package did not indicate it was Windoze Vista compatible, so I went with another brand that had a driver disk and Vista compliant. If it doesn't work I can always return it to the store. If this one works I will get a second for the URD AIC-T. I am going to have cabling galore.

 

I love my keyspan USB adapter, has drivers for everything and just works.

 

One of these days I'm going to read this whole thread and learn something, for now please excuse the interruption.

Dyno'd the FUNrunner last week so I thought I would share some numbers with you guys to see what I should do next or should I just leave it alone.
Wheel dyno on a hot day at sea level with 91oct. These are real world numbers, we didn't doctor results by spraying down blower, squirting stickum on belts, etc.. So if I add 30% loss from automatic I should be a bit over 310hp at crank right?

///Results\\\
><> 240hp @ 4200rpm
><> 290ftlb @3000rpm
><> 7.76psi


///basic motor upgrades\\\
-gen iii or iv trd sc
-urd fic
-urd 2.2 pulley
-318cc injectors x6
-iridium ik22 plugs
-walbro 190 lph pump
-headers, no cat and high flow muffler

thank you

 

Nice!! Chaplain those are good looking numbers!

 

I am not a fan of the dynopak, that tourqe spike is due to the dyno error but those numbers do look right in line with what I would expect from a 2.2 pulley.

The losses for the auto tranny are around 20% though FYI. 2wd being a tad lower then 4wd.

 

I thank you are probably right about the 20%; depending on who I talk with i get different answers between 20-30%. This is a 4wd with a fully built IPT automatic. Truth is 30% add back makes me feel a lot better about the money poured into this 5vz, but 20% is probably more accurate. Dynapack units are not the best but for $200 it sure beats driving around the block with a laptop in my lap.

The motor was running out of fuel so I'm wondering if any of you are running bigger injectors then 318cc, if so what results are you seeing?

 

Yeah, I have never seen a transmission with 30% losses on a street car. 20% is already on the high side really. Fact is the supercharger just doesn't add a lot of power, it makes the truck have the power it should have come with from the factory IMO.

Add a smaller pulley and meth injection and then it will have some fun power but still not a lot of power. With my supercharger maxed out I figure I was around ~250-260whp, maybe a little more. It was fun but I want more, thats why I plan to go turbo lol.

Instead of getting larger injectors I would get a meth injection kit, it will add the fuel you need and add a fair amount of power.

 

I agree, these 5vz only give you enough power to let you know what your missing. Someone needs to put a LS in one or a 4.7 would be cool.
If I keep the runner meth makes the most logical since for its next step. It should help with how hot that blower gets too. Boosting hot air really doesn't do any good.

 

Meth will help a lot and about the last thing you can do to get anymore power out of it besides going turbo.

Someone has put an LS1 into a 4runner but it was not easy. The 1uz swaps are a lot easier but still a lot of work. The best option if you want some power out of it is a turbo. That will give plenty of power and be the easiest/cheapest method since we already know that the 5vz takes boost very well.

Too bad no one makes a turbo kit for the 5vz that is within reason.

 

Is there any way to monitor the intake temp at the throttle body (post MAF)? I just got my water/meth system setup am I am curious just how much heat I am pulling out of the air.

 

You would want to measure the temps post supercharger for them to mean anything and that would have to be an aftermarket setup.

Check out my youtube, I have a video that shows the temp drop on there.

 

13s is okay for low boost.

Chaplain, those numbers look good. Even the newest SUVs have high horsepower numbers but not so much torque. For example, the new 3.6L V6 used in the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited has good horsepower at 285, but only 259 ft lbs of torque AT THE ENGINE. Compare that to a TRD SC'd 3.4, at 270-290 ft lbs AT THE WHEELS. Apples-to-apples, that's 259 ft lbs for the Jeep and 324 ft lbs for the Toyota (I used the lower 270 ft lbs number because I think your dyno did spike a bit.) Add to that the fact that the SC'd engine will have a much flatter torque curve than the naturally-aspirated engine.

The SC'd 3.4 continues to impress me that it will make those kinds of numbers and still get 20mpg on the highway with a lift and gear on-board.

 

Really? crap I was getting stressed over that. Re-tuning this week now that I am happy with the water/meth setup. Debating if I want to start putting more timing back in or just leave it as is.

 

Most factory forced induction vehicles will still run 14.7:1 at 2-3 psi of boost to maintain stoich and low emissions. I find this most when climbing a long high elevation grade with a low throttle position. So 13:1 is actually quite safe for that scenario.

 

just supercharged my 2012 tacoma.. driving home from ft sam houston to ft meade maryland, 1600miles, 28hours... how often should i stop and let the sc cool down before i start driving again?

 

I would not be too worried about it anymore then if it was NA. I have driven mine supercharged for hours on end without an issue. Times like this are where a water/meth injection kit will really pay off though but doubt you would have time for that.

Watch the gauges, if it starts overheating then do what you would normally do. I would change the oil before a trip like that and check everything else on the truck.

 

You wont need to stop and let the sc cool down (assuming you arent boosting the entire 1600 miles ).

 

im new to the sc engines, i had a 3.0 slow before this lol... so im a newb, just dont wanna kill my new truck even if its under warranty.. haha, and im not gonna be boosting the entire way, just about half =P, but when i leave texas itll be mid 80's and sunny, and when i get to md itll be around 40-60 degress out.. so itll cool off a good bit on the way there thank god.. this heat isnt good for anythign except frying eggs, its close to 100 daily right now