Yeah, that's the down side to having a muscle car...they're big. However, I can load up 3 hot chicks in the thing and their luggage and drive across the country in style and comfort LOL.

Here's my 11.79 run. For about 12 hours I was the fastest 6 speed Challenger in the country that we know of. I was later beaten by 6/100ths of a second so now I'm 2nd fastest LOL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzjMPYWog6k

Race tires, cooler, 10' pop up tent, tool bag, cleaning supplies, cordless air compressor, folding chair, and camera equipment all in the trunk

 

Yep,i saw that video on youtube, not bad, surprised that no one has gotten them to go faster with all the guys modding them and making good power.

Muscle Cars are great, i am a redneck so i will always have a soft spot for them. For just driving around, they are great cars, very good stoplight racers.

The new 5.0 mustang has really caught my eye, great mix of new tech with old school styling. And put together the Boss 302 version even beat the R8's lap times which is no small feat. If i was to buy a muscle car it would be a 5.0 mustang 302 boss.

The Challenger is a great car don't get me wrong, i LOVE the way they look, just to big and heavy for my tastes. They make great cruisers though.

I would love to see what that car would do with some meth injection, i know you would pick up some power, the question is how much. And that largely depends on how much meth/water you want to inject.

I bet you could make over 600rwhp pretty easy though and be safer doing it. 20hp gains are not hard at all with a good tune.

Here is an example from my MR2, ignore the dip, was still being tuned and went rich but 30hp with only turning the meth on and 3 extra degrees of timing (and the extra ~1psi of boost that went with it due to cooler intake temps). With some more tuning i bet i could have got more out of it.

 

There's Challengers in the 9's at 145MPH, but they're autos. 6 speeds are a different animal.

I'll noodle on the meth injection. Might be fun for this car to use at the track with some MS109. My ultimate goal is 11.49s, so if I can get there without doing anything other than driving a bit better.....why bother with anything else LOL.

 

Those ECU's are auto tuning right? They take care of the timing and such for you? If so you can try dropping some race gas in there and see what happens with the extra timing.

Meth injection would do much the same thing though ;-)

Some better driving would net you a sub 11.5 for sure but I am not sure how strong the drivetrain is on those cars, you would need to launch it really hard so you would find any weak spots.

Whats your tire setup right now? Which radials? What pressure? What size? How is traction right now?

 

Tuning ECM yes and now. I have a custom tune in the car. The timing is set by my tuner but is affected by ambient, IATs, Knock, etc.

I have DSS 1400HP axles in the car. They're STOUT. No problems there. I think it takes about 800RWHP to twist a drive shaft and the trans is supposed to be good for 750.

I'm using M&H DRs at 20psi. 275/50/17s.

 

Well sounds like you are doing everything right, those are good tires, not the best but quite good. Besides trying a different tire that is also wider looks like you just need to work on your launch. it is hard to launch a heavy car like that with a manual.

I assume you spin off the line? A set of full slicks/skinnys would easily net you a low 11 pass but that is gonna cost you a fair amount too.

If traction is a big issue off the line like i assume it is, a cheap and fairly easy way to get some extra traction is to get yourself some VHT trackbite. Spray it on the tires just before your burnout, it will get them very sticky. I have seen cars pull the front tires off the ground on the street with that stuff.

 

Yeah, there are a few things I could do to really shave time. Strip down the interior, lighter wheels, skinnies up front, etc. No doubt with those changes and some seat time low 11s would be no problem.

Honestly, I'm able to launch without much wheel spin, it's the shift from 1-2 where I'm spinning the tires. Probably lost at least 2/10ths right there.

My personal target with the car was a stock GT500. I surpassed that awhile ago. Then it was 11.80s. I got that too. Now it's just 11.49. I mean this is a comfortable street cruiser after all and 11.79 is nothing to sneeze at let alone 11.49s.

It's easy to get caught up in the speed black hole, but I try not to get too wild .

 

I agree, the power black hole is so easy to fall into, and so much fun as well. Till you wallet catches up and tells you ho much you spent to get there.

In my case i planned to break the 750rwhp and 10 second barrier with my MR2 in a daily driver form but budget stepped in and said no. Still got the motor to get me most of the way there but my turbo will limit me to around 500rwhp or so for now.

You have a very nice car, very quick too.

Oh and as a note, don't get bias ply skinnys up front without matching bias ply slicks out back and vice versa, you never want to mix radials with bias plys, makes for bad things to happen on track.

If you get both front and rear then you have the making for some real fast times, just got to take it easy the first few passes as they will act different then radials.

 

just checking in, its been 6 months or so. my toyota now has 140,000 supercharged miles on it. Still running great. Just change the oil in the nose cone every 30,000 miles with redline 75w90 gear oil and its all good... and change the oil in my motor every 3500 miles and its all been bullet proof.

 

this subject was on my "homwork to do list"

 

Nice stuff, but did you know the toyota auto tranny HAS a temp gauge installed stock?

If you have a scangauge II w/ X-gauge:

Transmission temp


TXD: 686AF101B4
RXF: 044105B40000
RXD: 2808
MTH: 00090005FFD8

It will display temps in degree's Fahrenheit. It reads the temp from the hottest part of the tranny before the fluid goes into the cooler. Works quite well, too.

 

Project SportRunner is still kicking along without issue....well save for the power antenna that just went out for the 2nd time. This time it's the motor, $180 to replace, so out it came and replaced with a Tacoma whip. I'm happy now that I'll never have to fool with that antenna again.

I still love this 4Runner.

I'm amazed that the front brakes are still good. When replacing the mast I had the front tire off and was looking it over and I swear I still have 3/8" of brake pad material on the front! How is that possible at nearly 85K miles? The rotors do have some vibration to them now though.

I'm also still on the factory rubber! Man this thing will go forever.

I am starting to get an intermittent CEL for the O2 sensor heater circuit. I need to check that out as well.

Time for a full detail with Griot's products before winter.

 

I have been surprised how long my front brakes are lasting as well although i am starting to wounder about the rears now.

I need tires bad, i am scared to drive over 60mph on mine, they are dry rotted big time.

 

I've tried reading several pages of this thread and am still trying to clarify one thing, as I'm just about to install a SC here in 2 weeks.

Is my understanding correct, that the URD 7th injector kit contains an AFR calibrator, and is the exact same electronics used in the stand-alone pre-set 5VZ AFR calibrator? (Meaning that buying the stand-alone unit is pointless?) Or are these still different?

 

It depends on if you have the cali version of the truck or not.

The Built in AFR calibrator only works with the cali version. The stand alone version works with the federal version of the truck IIRC.

Thats why speedy was able to use the built in version and i had to use the separate one.

 

IIRC my new power antenna was about $100... not too bad...

Also, i got the same code, replaced the o2 sensor, no problems since.

Greg

 

I figured a new O2 sensor would fix it...but they're over $100 and I'm a cheap skate. I'm gonna try to clean the one in it up and see if it clears up the problem.

The fact that it's intermittent makes me think that may work, but we'll see. It will literally go for 2-3 weeks without coming on, then boom it pops on for a day or two, then goes away again.

 

What is it about the cali version that is different that allows for the AFR calibrator to work? I got too excited at first when I read that the 7th injector kit I bought (used) said that it had one built in.

 

The cali models (maybe only the 00+, been a long time since i have looked it up) have a wideband front O2 sensor and the federal models have a normal narrowband sensor.

They both use totally different methods of outputting the signal and thus different methods of adjusting the signal the ECU sees.

 

My 4Runner is a 2002 and it has 2 cats on it. I'm thinking there was no longer a differentiation between CA and non CA vehicles by the time 2002 rolled around.