I can re-send my map, but it may not do you much good since you're a 5 speed. I'm auto and the characteristics are quite different since mine shifts automatically.

Yes, I tuned mine by ear. I had my girl friend drive up a steep grade lugging the engine while I watched the R4 software and listened for ping. When I'd hear it I'd add retard in a given cell a little at a time, pull over, upload the map, and start again. Above 3K slowly ramp down the retard as that's where the stock ECU checks for ping. I also used the OBDII-BR-3 to watch for spikes in retard as that's another indication of ping.

I'm quite surprised you're only getting 8lbs of boost with a 2.2" pulley. 9.5 is the common quoted number for that pulley.

I've never touched my bypass valve on the SC.

 

I don't think I'm getting any more boost with the 2.2, I believe there is a boost limiter on the SC that must be adjusted to get more boost, but I could be wrong. Either way, I don't need more than 7-8lbs.

I definetly have gotten rid of the LOW RPM ping I had before by just using the delivered timing map and the AFR calibrator seems to keep me around 13.5 - 13.8 during closed loop boost so overall I'm happy with that, just not convinced that the stock fuel system runs as lean as everyone claims. You just don't know until you hook up an AFR and check it. From what I can see on my truck, the stock system is fine even running WOT with a 2.2 pully...

I'm going to disconnect the 7th injector control line and drive around and do some tests and see how it looks, I'll post up later this week and let you know.

 

There is no boost control. There is a bypass valve, but that should be set to only work at idle.

Also, "only needing 7-8 lbs" is ok, but with it boosting properly you're getting more boost at lower RPMs which makes for a much nicer ride. That 7-8 is only at WOT so down low you're 1-2 or so. Get it to 10.5 at WOT like mine and down low you're at 3.5 - 4.5 down low so you get more power for easy passing and what not.

After seeing your results I'm pretty confident that Toyota beefed up the fuel system in later model years, since mine is also pretty good. Some folks were seeing 16.X AFRs with the stock pulley in previous year models. I did some WOT testing on mine stock before installing the SC and found the AFR went to 10.2. After the SC with the stock pulley I was around 10.5 to 10.8. After getting the timing adjusted I was up around 11.5. After adding the 2.2" pulley I was around 11.8 but leaned out close to 5000 RPM. I didn't realize I was getting lean until I got it on the dyno and could actually flog it pretty good. The power would drop substantially above 4500 RPM and my AFR would hit 13. Getting the AFR back to 11.8 added 20 HP over a poorly tuned run.

 

toyota may have beefed up the fuel system, maybe not. I used to have a 96 4runner that got the same mileage as my new tacoma.

I think the fact that the open loop mix is low 10s could be a reason that some of the people who drive hard are getting 15MPG and people who keep it mellow get 20MPG. Just a thought.

EDIT: One other thing I noticed when hooking up my boost line for the AIC was that there was already some plumbing done since it came with a boost gauge and SC from the previous owner. It looked like the boost port may have somehow been tied to the fuel pressure port??? I didn't take the time to understand how exactly it was hooked up, but the dealer may have done something along those lines when the PO had the SC installed.

I'll take a pic or make a drawing and post it. Maybe that has something to do with my strong stock fuel system? I have no baseline to compare with since the SC was already installed when I got the truck.

 

There should be a line going from the Supercharger boost port to the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the motor. That helps fuel pressure increase as boost increases. Gadget originally found that as a fix and TRD stole the idea and began putting it in their instructions for the SC install.

Oddly, they say to remove it in their 7th injector install instructions. However, I left mine hooked up with the URD 7th per Gadget.

 

did some more testing with AIC map B turned to 0 and the 7th unplugged. Still in the 11-12 range in open loop and in the 10's down at lower boost. Now what should I do with the injector and fuel pump? I wonder if there is a market for those without a controller? The pump is still in the package.

What a waste of money...

And for the lack of boost with the 2.2 pully, maybe it is because i have the stock air box and exhaust? I haven't touched any of the stock air and exhaust systems.

 

My exhaust is stock, but I have the deckplate mod done to my air box. I figure it's 7HP per psi so you're losing out on about 15 - 20 HP at only 8 psi plus the 10 you get from having the deck plate open (I dyno'd that myself). If you get boost where it should be I bet you'll need that 7th, but sell it if you're gonna drive like grandma haha. The pump will go pretty easy, but I doubt anyone will want just the injector.

I got 7psi with the stock pulley.

You ever get one of your runs up where I can view it? You'll be kicking yourself if you sell that stuff and find out you needed it. How are you doing your WOT runs? What gear?

 

I posted one of my movies a few posts back. Im doing WOT in 4th and 5th gear on the freeway. When I do 3rd gear runs, I end up going 100MPH where I should be doing half that. With the stock pully I got 7PSI, with the 2.2, I get 8PSI.

I'm doing my testing on the freeway on uphills since that is where I'll be driving in boost. I like have the SC for taking my dirtbikes and gear out to the desert and maintaining 80MPH on the freeway while going uphill in 5th gear.

I don't want to race anyone or do WOT runs. I'll hang on to the stuff for little bit and see how it goes, but I doubt I'll need it.

How can I get my boost closer to where yours is?

I have a K&N, that I took off when I bought the truck off the PO. I like having the stock intake since its quieter. I wonder if that would get my boost higher and lean me out a bit??

 

I get 10 lbs of boost with the stock filter box and filter (no deck plate mod), 2.1" pulley . I'm just going by my boost gauge though, when I'm at full boost I'm too busy hanging on to let my eyes wonder over to the laptop screen.

 

Ok, I missed the post with the video. First thing I see is that you're showing MAP A which is timing. I need to see MAP B which is fuel. Secondly, your not staying in the upper RPM range long enough to really tell what's going on with the AFR. The LC-1 is a split second behind actual so you'll need to let it stabilize before deciding it's good.

Finally, the runs should be made in 3rd or 4th gear, from lower RPMs to red line. Whether you'll do much WOT, drag racing, whatever is irrelevant. You need to know the vehicle is in a safe AFR at red line in the event you ever do go there which could happen off road pretty easy. I RARELY go WOT in my 4Runner, but it's tuned for if I ever do. Peace of mind is worth a lot.

If you look at the video I did on my website you'll see it gets to the upper RPM and boost area and stays there, and the AFR is very stable as well. That's what we wanna see from yours.

Don't bother with the K&N. If you want to see what the deck plate could do for you, open the top of your air box and drive around for a while. That's pretty close. Or remove the elbow from the fender (which is what the TRD 7th injector instructions state to do). I prefer the deck plate, but it's a little more work. Remember, after you open it up you'll need to give the truck a couple hundred miles to learn the new parameter, and then test your AFR, but an initial test may give some good info.

 

Record it with CamStudio. I assumed I was only seeing 9.5 psi with the 2.2" pulley which was really messing me up when tuning. After review I was shocked to see it setting at 10.5 psi!!!! That's with a 2.2" pulley.

 

Yeah, I'll try that. I worked yesterday on trying to get my XD-1 readout on the laptop, without any luck. I connected that serial cable to the extra plug in the back of the XD-1 and loaded the logworks software. All the gauges come up on the screen when I start the logworks but they don't show any real data. Maybe I need to configure it or something. I haven't gotten through all the instructions yet.

 

I would keep the extra fuel mods, just because your getting a good A/F ratio without it, that doesn't mean your injectors aren't running near 100% duty cycle. IIRC you don't want to go over about 80% duty cycle.

 

Mine may be different since I have the DB gauge and not the nicer XD-16, but I had to put a terminator in the "input" side for the output to work. This terminator was included with my cables. It looks like a headphone plug attached to a pen cap.

 

I don't think you have control over that with or without the 7th injector mods in open loop. Only solution for that is to have bigger injectors unless I'm missing something. All the 7th will do is squirt more in on top of what the ECU feels like doing in open loop.

 

Maybe you're right, I was thinking the ECU would be cutting back on the duty cycle of the injectors due to feedback from the front A/F sensor in closed loop. But the URD 7th injector doesn't even run in closed loop does it. Oh wait it does. So, maybe my thinking was correct because what happens in closed loop does effect open loop right?

 

Looking at my LC-1 instructions I noticed something interesting. The stoichiometric ratio for gasoline is of course 14.7, but the stoich ratio for ethanol is 9.0. With more and more gas stations using blends of the 2, and not even telling us (another topic), how is that effecting our target tune ratio? Should we be looking for something lower than we are now if filling up with a blend?

 

That discussion will open up a whole different can of worms, but since stock ECUs are designed to get the AFR to 14.7:1 then I'd think the blend won't matter. If it did, we'd be throwing CELs in a stock vehicle running a blend wouldn't we?

I usually run only Shell fuel in my SC'd 4Runner and put whatever is cheapest in my 4 banger Accord. I did notice at my last fill up at Shell they had a decal on the pump saying it contained up to X% ethanol.

 

you are correct, closed loop operation of the 7th is absolutely possible as long as you have non zero values for that section of the boost vs rpm map. And it WILL affect the smaller injectors (in closed loop), but the problem is that it makes your blend too rich when you kick into open loop since the URD AIC doesn't know if you are in OL or CL operation.

I now have a good feel for how my stock fuel system is running, and I am pretty sure I can nuke the 7th and still be plenty rich in both OL and CL. I will do some 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear runs with the 7th turned off to verify then off it comes. I bet I could even run a 2.1" pully and still be good with the stock injectors...

EDIT: It doesn't make "your" blend too rich, it makes "my" blend too rich. I am only talking about my particular vehicle. Results are prabably very different from vehicle to vehicle.

 

I have 1.1s in plenty of closed loop cells, I believe from about 3,000 RPM up and starting at maybe 4psi. I don't have my map here at work, but can verify later. I figure a little extra fuel to cool the intake charge doesn't hurt and I'm still showing 13.5 AFR on the LC-1 in closed loop.

As for your runs, MAKE SURE your timing is set right. I understand your not getting ping, but if you have too much retard dialed in you won't ping, but the truck will be losing a lot of power and will show rich on the AFR gauge as well. Once you have it right you'll know it as the truck will feel VERY powerful and linear with no surging.