I had the same issue with a off-brand, smaller pulley that I bought from a YT member used. I did not have any recourse and ended up buying a URD supergrip and it worked perfectly. However, the faulty pulley ended up pushing in the shaft on my S/C and I needed to get the nose rebuilt by magnuesson before I was up and running again. I am sure that URD will take care of it for you..

 

Gadget just gave me a call. It seems there are some manufacturing differences in the TRD supercharger in regards to the nose drive. The shaft can be at different depths and he's seen this before. I'll have to mail my pulley to him along with pictures of the stock pulley installed on the SC. He's going to try to clearance the URD pulley for me. If it can't be clearanced, then I will be unable to run a smaller than stock pulley.

Based on what I told him he said he thinks clearancing it will solve my problem, but I won't know until send him the pics.

 

OK, another update. Brian from URD called. It seems they had some issue with a batch of pulleys. They were pulled and thrown out save for one to keep as an example of what didn't work. Somehow that's the one I got. They're shipping me a new pulley.

This has been the only real snag I've ran into with this whole project so I'd say I'm doing pretty well.

 

Here are the boost numbers:

http://www.pulleyboys.com/trd_taco34l.html

Pulley Size PSI
TRD 2.65" over-drive pulley 5.25 PSI
TRD 2.37" Stock Pulley 6 PSI
2.3" 8.5 PSI
2.2" 9.5 PSI
2.1" 10-11 PSI
2.0" 13-14 PSI

From the looks of my boost gauge, stock is a bit more than 6 lbs, and the 2.2" is 9 lbs. Going from stock to the 2.2" pulley yields more power than going from the 2.2" to the 2.1" pulley ~ 16 rwhp. That seems to correspond with the boost increments mentioned above.

I'll see if I can dig up some dynos when CT gets back online.

 

Great info! Thanks man.

 

man that stuff sure works good, but it will also congest your cooling system over time. So bewares. Just use your coolant for a shorter interval.

IF you leave it in for a time, well... lets just say that I've seen a few Spec Racer Ford motors get cooked because of Water Wetter coagulation, which clogs the radiator and the motor gets really, really hot.

 

I installed the URD 7th injector yesterday and did a base tune. The installed was VERY easy and everything fit and worked perfectly. The truck really pulls now. It's a lot different than just slapping the SC on.

My particular vehicle needed A LOT of timing adjustment, but only needed additional fuel near red line. Kind of odd, but that's how it is. I only had to add 1.1 or 1.2 of fuel with the 7th and so far I'm not going to need to install the Walboro 190. I seriously think Toyota put a larger pump in later models or I just got lucky.

I'm going to do some thorough testing and AFR logging/tuning once I get the 2.2" pulley installed. I'm around 11.2 - 11.4 AFR now at WOT near red line. I'm thinking with the 2.2" pulley installed I'll be right where I wanna be at 11.8 - 12.0.

I'm changing the URD AIC-T with integrated AFR Calibrator from a highly suggested item to a required item for the supercharged 3.4L. I would not feel comfortable running the SC without the timing adjustment at a bare minimum. The AFR Calibrator's ability to get down in the 13 AFR ratio range in closed loop boost will really help the longevity of the motor.

More to come once I've gotten the new pulley put on, but this truck is a totally different animal already.

 

Speedy did you run into any flashing CELs when adjusting the timing map? I've been trying to tune out some ping and if I get too agressive with the retard I get a CEL that flashes while driving (PO codes 301, 303, 305 which are miss-fire codes for cyls 1,3, and 5). Even after I had smoothed the map out so no horizontal cells changed by more than .5 and no vertical cells changed by more than 1, I still get a flashing CEL if I put a valve in as high as 7. A 6 seems to be the limit on my FTC, 6 or lower and no CELs, but 7 and I get them every time.

I've pretty much gotten rid of most audible ping, but my knock light still picks up quite a bit of pinging.

 

I've not gotten any CEL (knock on wood). I've got a value of 9 in the 7 psi column, then used the auto fill function to go from 0 psi to 7 psi. I put a value of 15 in for 16 psi and used auto fill from 7 psi to 16 psi.

Keep in mind mine is a 2002 model. I'm not sure what's different but there seems to be something as my fuel system does pretty well also. Either that or I'm just lucky.

I don't have a knock light, but I can lug the crap outta mine in OD climbing a hill and not hear a single ping.

What FTC do you have? What model year is your engine/ecu combo?

 

2001, the FTC is the one that came with this kit:
http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p..._id=1230100017
It's the non-ESC one, my 2001 has the A/F sensor for the ECU feedback. I also installed the A/F sensor calabrator to be able to tune closed loop.

 

Can you send me a screen shot of your timing map to look at? What AFRs have you tuned to in closed loop using the AFR Calibrator?

 

Here's the timing map, it took 2 pics to get most of it, go to the upper righthand corner and click on full size to see it better:




I'm just getting started on the closed loop tuning, I been working more on open loop since it was running too rich (10s). Gadget's preloaded map was actually very close on the closed loop tune. It basicly gradually richens up from 14.7 in preboost areas to mid 12s before going to open loop where I've finally got leaned out to about mid 11s now. My biggest concern now is the timing map and trying to get rid of all pinging.

The strangest thing I've run into is my ECU switches to open loop a lot while just cruising down the highway at 70-75 mph with the cruise control on. When it switches to open loop my A/F drops from 14.7 to about the 13.8-14.2 area (with my current fuel map) Of course I can adjust that A/F when it switches to open loop very easy and I will before I take a long road trip. But I'm sure curious why its going to open loop so easy (part throttle and preboost sometimes).

 

Ok, on your timing map. That looks A LOT different than mine. First, I don't have ANY timing adjustment in vac areas, only boost. Second, I took WOT logs with the OBDII - BR-3 Diagnose software stock, then SC'd. The only thing that changed for me was that timing advance went from 20.5 stock to 11.5 SC'd at WOT. That told me I lost 9 degrees. I just added that back in for th entire 7 psi column then autofilled down to 0 and up to 16 psi. I can send you a screen shot if what I'm saying doesn't make sense. In other words, the only place timing should have changed is in boost as that's the only thing different.

On the AFR Calibrator.....mine seems to only go to about 13.5. I wish it would drop to mid 12s but mine's not programmable as it's integrated into the FTC (AIC-T). The benefit is one less box to wire in and a simpler hookup. I asked Gadget about it stopping at 13.5 and he said that's about right as pushing it too far caused issues. You may wanna adjust that back to about 13 to see if that helps your problem. I believe they're starting to push the pre-programmed AFR Calibrator to avoid this issue as apparently there is only a small amount of adjustment that can be made.

I've been thinking about using the 7th to give a little bit of fuel to bring this closed loop AFR down to 12.5, but I'm not sure that's possible since it's closed loop. I figure the ECU will just lean it back out. Opinions?

Finally, I've seen mine flip flop from open/closed loop at times just crusing around. It seems to do it after letting off the throttle and easing back into it I'd think that's normal since both of us experience the same thing. However, my having only the 7th injector it's not obvious from an AFR perspective as I'm only adding fuel in boost where it's needed rather than having to remap the entire fuel system for six larger injectors.

Let me know if you wanna see my timing map. It seems to be dead on for my application.

Here's a blurb from Gadget's U-Tune AIC guide. You may have seen this before, but none the less:

When setting up your base timing map you already know that at full boost (6
PSI), full RPM our test engine has reduced the knock threshold by 6 degrees.
So, find the pressure column that corresponds to the 6 PSI level and put 6
degrees in that column. Find the ZERO pressure column and put ZERO
throughout the whole column. Now highlight the ZERO column and all the way
out to the 6 PSI column. Select the AUTOFILL function and the tuning software
will populate the table automatically scaling the retard between the two points.

For my case it was 9 degrees rather than 6, but the same principle applied.

 

Sorry, double post.

 

The timing adjustment I've made in the vac areas was made partly because I was getting pinging in those areas and partly to smooth out the map more gradually. This maybe because of my WI setup, Gadget hints in the u-tune guide that it may be nessasary because of the way the ECU only uses the knock sensors for feed back above 3000 rpms and that's where I'm often dumping in water/meth to cool the intake temps and that has good spark knock supression. So the ECU thinks the spark knock condition is better than it really is. The whole idea of the ECU only using the knock sensors above 3000 rpms seems ludicrous to me since the worst knocking happens below 3000 rpms

On the AFR Calibrator, I've never changed the preloaded map Gadget sent with it.

Yes, I'd like to see your timing map too.

 

Ok, I forgot you had WI.

I'll post up my timing map 2nite after I get home. It's much more simple than yours though.

If you put a 9 in the ENTIRE 7 psi column, then auto fill from 0 in the 0 psi column to the 9 in the 7 psi column that's my timing map. I also put a 15 in the 16 psi column and auto filled from the 7 psi column to the 16 psi column.

Very simple.

 

Oh...ok I never used that autofill feature so I was a little lost there, but I just tried it out and wow that's nice. All rpms the same huh? Seems like that is retarding a lot of the map that doesn't need it, but what ever works. I'll try that to see if I can get more retard in the areas I need it without getting those flashing CELs for miss-fires.

 

Keep in mind, it's not retarding the timing by the amount you enter. It's giving the stock ECU it's "adjustment range" back. In my case the stock ECu was advancing the timing to 20.5 degrees stock WOT. After the SC it was advancing it 11.5 degrees WOT. I lost 9 degrees of the ECUs adjustment range. Putting a 9 in the 7 psi column simply puts the WOT advance back to 20.5 like it was stock (11.5 + 9 = 20.5).

The idea is to give the stock ECU back it's adjustment capability that it had stock.

Make sense?

This principle is described more thoroughly in Gadget's U-Tune AIC guide.

 

Is there an online copy of that u-tune AIC guide? You mean putting a bigger number in the timing map will let the ECU advance the timing more? I thought it was retarding it more (less advance).

 

Thanks for writing about all this as I will be tuning mine soon and all this info is helping me understand it..Ill be posting my experiences here to get some feedback also..Thanks guys..