Where did you mount your LC-1 display..I am trying to figure out where I want mine..

 

Check out my site at www.hooliganbiketech.net/sportrunner and click on the Performance Gauges link on the left.

 

Wow Speedy..Those look really good..I still have my stock radio so I have no room for that kind of install but man does that look good..I really like your site..Your installs look very professional..I still can't decide where to put my gage..Guess I will have to keep investigating..

 

A nice single DIN head unit only runs about $100 these days. The one I have will play MP3s, WMAs, etc, and has an input for a separate MP3 player. Just something to consider. Although installing gauges in that other DIN slot was a lot of work.

What other gauges do you plan to run? You could do a double A-pillar pod and use one opening for the AFR and the other for something else. Post up a couple pics of your interior.

OH, the most important thing. MAKE SURE the shop removes the down pipe to weld in your bung, and I'd suggest getting a stainless steel bung as well for added rust protection. The first shop that did my bung poo poo'd the weld. Long story short, I had a performance guy fix it, but the studs on the down pipe snapped putting the down tube back in. The final cost to fix it all was like $350. Make sure a good shop does the work and is prepared to fix studs should they break. You'll probably need to leave the vehicle as it takes about 2-3 hours for things to cool down enough for them to work with it and it being cool helps avoid broken bolts/studs.

Obviously put a TON of high temp anti seize on the O2 sensor or you'll have a heck of a time taking it out to do free air calibrations in the future. Always put fresh anti seize on as well after the free air calibration.

 

I went and did some full throttle runs and video taped my AFR gauge, and data logged my BR-3 OBDII to the lap top. After analyzing the video and logs this is what I've found.

I would start from a dead stop and just floor it.

With the deck plate closed, as the vehicle approaches the shift point at WOT the AFR gradually moves up to 12.4 right before it shifts from 2nd to third. After it shifts to third the AFRs stay around 10.3 - 10.6 and even go as low as 10.0 and power drops off noticeably, but that seems to only happen in third.

I did it twice to be sure and both times it's pretty much the same.

I then removed the deck plate to open the air box. I did this same WOT run again from a dead stop. This time the AFRs went up to 12.8 right before shifting to third. Once it shifted to third the AFRs dropped to 10.0 and slowly climbed up to 10.3 and held for a few seconds, then finally 10.6 but never any higher. By then I was passing 100 miles per hour.

From going back and looking at the BR-3 log data it looks like I'm shifting around 5200 RPM. Being an auto, I'll never actually get to redline.

I'm not gonna do any more of this until I get the timing adjusted. It was pinging pretty bad even at WOT.

I've attached a screen shot from the BR-3. Take a look at the fuel trims. They've nearly canceled. This is after 400 miles of driving with the SC.

The videos can be viewed at the below links:

Deck Plate Closed AFR Video

Deck Plate Open AFR Video

Based on this info, what do you think? I'm kinda worried about it being at 10.X AFRs the entire time it's in third gear and WOT. I think that's rich enough to melt my cat.

 

I'm guessing sound you were shifthing manually for those runs?
I'm following your build up since I haven't seen too many '02 SC build ups on the board --- I'm hoping I can catch something that I will help out my set up.
(I posted over on Donovan's 2step colder plug thread)

BTW - good write up --- see if you can break 20 pages!!!! I think the ANDYMOD thread was one of the longest threads so far.

Jim

 

Nope, those shifts were done by the vehicle. I just nailed it and hung on. After talking to a tuner buddy, that Open Loop Fuel Trim screen shot is worthless. I need to post one up of it in closed loop under just enough throttle to keep from going into open loop to see what the fuel trims are really doing.

 

I got the AIC-T with integrated AFR Calibrator installed last night. I haven't hooked up the 7th injector yet.

I adjusted my timing and now NO MORE PING. The power seems to have picked up some as well. The AFR Calibrator portion seems to be working. When I'm in closed loop and start to get into boost the AFR starts to drop from 14.7 down to about 13.5. I've not seen it go below 13.5 though.

Is the AIC-T supposed to make a buzzing sound? It seems like I'm hearing the supercharger pulses coming through the boost line going to the AIC-T.

It came with a "restrictor" t-fitting that I used, but I still hear the thing.

 

More details please What numbers did you put in the map?

 

Well, I followed the suggestion in Gadget's U-Tune AIC guide so before I installed the SC I did some WOT runs. I then repeated this after the SC install. I compared the timing advance between the two.

Before the SC I was at 20.5 degrees advance at WOT as close to redline as my auto tranny would get. After the SC I showed 11.5 degrees advance at WOT and close to redline. That meant I used up 9 degrees of adjustment after the SC was installed. I've got some screen shots of this on my site.

Long story short, I put 9 in the 7 psi column. I then used the auto fill feature from 0 psi to 7 psi at each row of RPM. I then put in 15 at 16 psi in the map, and again auto filled from 7 psi to 16 psi just for safe measure and did that for each row as well.

I had my gal drive the vehicle last night and had her lug the motor up hills and got just a little pinging in two spots which I adjusted out. Today in 95 degree weather I get NO ping at all at any RPM or lugging of the motor.

Now, a question for you. Does your ECU module buzz under boost?

 

Thanks Speedy. I guess you mean the FTC? I haven't noticed it, but it is buried up behind the dash wrapped up in padding. I did use the special restrictor "T" fitting Gadget provided.

 

Ok cool. I'll ask URD about it.

 

Did some more testing and logging last night. The URD AIC-T has really helped my running rich in 3rd WOT. I'm not sure if it was tuning the timing, or the AFR Calibrator, but one of the two really helped. I'm not running at around 11.0 WOT in 3rd rather than 10.2. Power feels much better. The 2.2" pulley should bring it up some more.

I did a LogWorks2 log of the AFR on a 0-100 MPH WOT run last night. The graph is on my site for those interested.

I plan to put the 2.2" pulley on tonight. I started fooling with it last night but couldn't get my Craftsman rubber strap wrench to hold the pulley still to remove the nut. I'm gonna try some other methods tonight.

How much HP is the 2.2" pulley supposed to add?

 

I believe around 7-10 hp.

 

I thought it would be more around 25HP.

Stock pulley is said to give 75HP gain. That's at 7 psi of boost (on mine at sea level) so that's about 11 hp/psi. 2.2" pulley is 10 psi (?).

3 x 11 = 33HP - 20% drive train loss = ~26

Am I off?

I can't find any info stating how many pounds the 2.2" is.

 

I'm just getting 10 psi with my 2.1" pulley.

 

Hmm, maybe the 2.2" is only 9 psi then?

That'd make it:

2psi x 11 hp = 22 hp - 20% = ~18 HP.

 

I think I remember seeing a post giving those numbers. Remeber though, that the more boost , the hotter the air going in so there is a point of diminishing returns. If you get a way to cool the air more (WI) then you may gain more with the smaller pulley..

 

I tried to install the 2.2" pulley last night. Got the stock pulley off no problem, used a "loan a tool" puller from a local auto store which made it easy. With some help I got the Craftsman strap wrench on good enough to hold the pulley while I removed the top nut.

Now the issue. I put the 2.2" pulley on, used the top nut to seat it and torqued to 38 ft/lbs per the URD instructions. Started the car and heard "screeeeeeeeek". Shut the car down and saw that the pulley was rubbing into the nose of the SC. I removed it, cleaned up all the shavings it created with a tooth brush, and tried again, this time not starting the car obviously. I tried three different times and the pulley sits right against the nose of the SC.

Anyone else had this problem? The stock pulley has a higher recess that clears the SC nose by about 1-2mm. This URD 2.2" does not. I'm wondering if maybe I got a bad one?

I've e-mailed URD and am waiting to hear back on what to do. I cleaned everything up and put the stock pulley back on and luckily there's no damage.

 

That sucks...Hopefully they will have a solution for you at URD..