"just do it"

We can't wait.

 

thats funny, at work they say I'm anal, I tell them it's called "attention to detail"
I'd like to see more write-ups like this. It takes the guess work out of alot of stuff and makes it that much easier for someone else to do the same job. Plus, if you ever need to diagnose something, it helps to have a nice set of notes on what you did.

 

That's a lot of the reason I do this stuff actually. That and I love it.

 

Need someone to confirm some numbers.

I've started the SC install. Things are going smoothly thus far.

The stock cooling system on my 2002 3.4L holds 9.5 qts of coolant according to the FSM.

I've drained the coolant and am about to install the 160* thermostat. I'm going to reuse the coolant I drained as it's only been in the truck 3 months. It's currently at a 50/50 mix.

A 50/50 mix is 4.75 qts of water and 4.75 qts of coolant.

I'd like to run a 60/40 mix of water/coolant for better cooling. TRD recommended 70/30, but that's only good to about 5 degrees F. I travel and could be in an area colder than that one day on a trip. A 60/40 mix protects down to -10 F.

Someone check my math please:

9.5 X .60 = 5.7 qts water

5.7 - 4.75 = 0.95 qts

By those calculations, I should add right at a quart of distilled water to the radiator before pouring the coolant I drained back in.

Am I correct?

 

I'd just add a bottle of Redline water wetter to the mix.

 

That's going to go in as well.

 

Ok next question.

The IAC valve (little white thing that goes into the throttle body hose). Mine's NOT marked black on one end. Which way should air flow? Toward the throttle body I assume?

 

Decided to give URD a call for help on this. They set me straight. Air flows from the TB to the motor.

Now back to work.

 

Welp the SC is installed. I did the IK22 plugs, 160 thermostat, water wetter, and 60/40 mix of water/coolant as well. Total work time was about 4 hours and 45 minutes. Thank God I didn't pay the dealer $558 to install it. This was a piece of cake. Installing my custom gauges was much harder.

I went around the block a time or two to make sure everything seemed ok. I need to get used to the new noises the SC makes. Nothing major, just sounds different from stock idling.

Once I was sure things were OK, I went for a 20 mile run and flogged it a little for good measure. Before the SC the tires wouldn't even think of spinning. Now they'll do it on command. I kept thinking I had OD turned off or something when going down the highway. I expect it to get even better as the ECM learns the new parameters.

I do have ping when lugging up hills in OD. I'm gonna drive it a week or two as is to see if that gets better as the ECM learns. Then I'll put in the URD 7th and 2.2" pulley.

As of now I DO NOT run lean at WOT. That's with the deck plate closed, stock pulley, stock fuel system. When I floor it on the highway my AFR drops right down to 11.8 according to my LC-1.

More to come as I do more testing and data logging.

So far I'm very happy. Thanks to everyone who gave me guidance and put up with my anal ass these past few months.

 

Threw up a quick video of my SC install.

http://hooliganbiketech.net/sportrunner/

 

Glad to hear you got yours running.

I too got my runner going again this weekend.

When we initially tuned the truck the base tune that came with the FTC was running lean. We started lowering the #'s on the fuel maps. Which started richening it. All made sense. Until a week later it started running extremely lean. after a new FTC and a couple hundred more in extra uneeded parts it was doing the same thing. I had asked Gadget to send me his fuel maps. When i recieved them they looked totaly different then mine. Which then threw me re reading the U-Tune Guide. Get down to the fuel map portion of it and it states there 10 is neutral, lowering the #'s leans it, and upping it is richening it. Which doesnt make sense when we initially tuned it, lowering the #'s was richening the AFR's. But right now in low boost i have the afr's sitting at 12.0:1 AFR. And in mid-full boost i have is sitting at about 11.0-11.5:1 AFR. And it only tooke me 3 months to figure out this simple problem. Dont i feel like an idiot.

 

Dude, that's GREAT! I'm so glad to hear you got your problem resolved. I read the TRD install instructions 5 times before installing my SC and nearly had them memorized. I've done the same with the U-tune guide.

The wierdest thing to me is that I'm not running lean at WOT. I'm quite shocked at that. My AFRs are 11.8 with the stock pulley and no additional fueling.

I'm curious to see what the AFR will be when I put the 2.2" pulley on.

I still need to deal with closed loop boost regions as those are obviously 14.7 right now. The AFR calibrator should take care of that.

 

Ummm... which is why I asked to see your maps in the other thread.

No matter.. Congrats on you running again!

Have fun!

 

I'm really wondering if this thing will ever run lean at WOT. I just got back from lunch and did a couple of WOT tests. On the first one the AFR dropped down to 10.3!!! Obviously the ECM is still adjusting as that was my first sustained WOT run. I held the throttle open for about 15 seconds. The second run was on the way back to the office. This time the AFR stopped dropping at 11.2. This is with the deck plate closed. I'll try it again with the deck plate open after I get 300-400 miles on it.

Interesting.

 

Where's your wideband sensor installed?

Did you install an EGT gauge? Where's the sensor and what are the temps like?



btw, this point makes me VERY sad:

 

Wide band sensor is installed about 3 inches above the first stock sensor on the down pipe.



I did not install an EGT gauge. Several tuners have told me that's old school with digital WB sensors now available. I do have the option to add one later on if I feel the need and move my boost gauge to the a-pillar.

What about the tires spinning makes you sad?

 

Those are stock manifolds, right? So the crossover is above the tranny, and feeds in before the wide band?


huh... weird statement. EGT is EGT, it doesn't much matter what the wideband says, your exhaust temps could still be too high. Remember, I'm walking proof of having high EGT while running rich.

High temps are _bad_, you really should think about keeping an eye on them.


That I have so much more invested in my engine and even when it was running I couldn't do it.

 

Correct.

Well, the way it was explained to me is that back when WB sensors were super expensive a lot of people would tune using an EGT gauge. Now with WB's being much more reasonable it's better to tune using those. I'm sure you know a lot more about this than I do, but what I've "read" is that as long as the AFRs are good (11.8 or so at WOT) then the EGT should be good as well. You'll see increased EGTs when running rich if it's SO rich that the unburned fuel is igniting in the manifolds on it's way out.

I may add one down the road just for good measure. Plus gauges are cool

What's the deal there? You're a 3.4L right?

 

Right. And at 11.8 you could be running rich enough that your EGTs are beyond safe. I'm just sayin'...


Yeup. I don't wanna hijack your thread, but my lack of performance is well documented. Plus, again, I have a lot of goodies on (and in) this engine that should be putting me past 400hp at the crank.

 

I guess anything's possible

I'll do some searching. That's really weird.