The TRD kit runs super rich along with the 160 thermostat knocks out the ping.

 

I'm going to be wiring up my gauges and LC-1 wide band this weekend. The LC-1 instructions say to ground to the block to isolate the unit from any electrical noise.

I've been looking around the engine bay and the only easily accessible bolts I've found are the ones just behind the coil packs. NOT the bolts holding the coil packs, but the plastic rail behind them that the wire run in. I checked these bolts with a test light and they do show to be grounded, but are these considered being on the "block"?

I did not find any bolts that could be accessed in the physical iron block of the motor. If anyone knows of any I'd appreciate the info.

 

Well, I'm FINALLY finished with the gauges. That was one of the most tedious projects I've ever done. I could have made it easier, but I wire loomed all the wires and built harnesses for everything so it's easy to unplug components down the road if I need to. I also hid all the lines so they look factory for the most part.

I said my prayers and fired it up and everything worked right off the bat. I was a little nervous about the LC-1 as I couldn't ground to the block, but instead to part of the dash cage, but it's working fine. There's a couple pics in the Blog on my site.

The worst part was it was 97 degrees in my garage with 32% humidity making it feel about 100. That was with fans running!

 

Well, after driving around tonight I'm definitely ordering the Auto Meter dimmer for these gauges. They're bright!

 

I've been monitoring my AFRs and cruising around it stays around the expected 14.7. However, when I stab the go pedal the AFRs quickly drop to between 11.1 and 11.5 and stay there until I let off the gas. This is still N/A, but I was kind of surprised as I didn't expect them to go that low stock.

I'll have to monitor this after the SC is installed to see how much of a difference it makes.

 

Semantics wise, the numbers are "lower", but remember that this is an A->F ratio so it's actually more fuel. Dunno why I'm saying that, just the way you phrased it seems to read weird.

Anyway...

The numbers seem normal... The ECU will always be trying to (actually, NEED to) richen the fuel mixture in order to produce power.

The issue with the S/C is that you're pushing a LOT more air, so you need a LOT more fuel. Running this stock fuel system with a blower will result in a leaner mixture which is why you're looking to do everything else.

 

Yep, I've got the AFR thing down from all my dealings with motorcycles. 14.7 pounds of air per 1 pound of fuel, etc. Sorry if I was unclear above I was just surprised to see the stock AFRs get into the low 11s. I'll obviously test it again with the blower to see what kind of difference it makes.

 

Well, I think im going to be removing everything but the fuel pump this weekend and returning it back to stock. I need a vehicle. And its not safe to be driving in the 16 - 18 AFR with this ftc on here. My truck ran better without it. So until I find a different piggyback that will do what i tell it to do ill be running stock with the s/c.

 

Let me know what kind of AFRs you see SC'd with the stock fuel system. I'm curious about that as I'm in the low 11s NA at WOT.

 

Yeah man for sure. I cant go driving my brothers truck for ever. Im sick of the 12mpg, let alone 75$ to fill up his tank with diesel.

And besides i told a mechanic id be going back to him with my truck to have my rear axel seals done and have my trd clutch installed. This was supposed to happen over 3 months ago. So im gonna have that done while i decide which piggy back i want to get.

 

Dude, Steve, the rear axle seals are cake! Don't pay to have them done. Oh, and go SMT6

 

Got the Auto Meter gauge dimmer for LED illuminated gauges today (P/N 9114) and got it installed. Simple three wire hookup. MUCH better being able to dim them down to match the stock dash illumination level.

Without the dimmer it looked like I was driving around with a piece of kryptonite sitting in my lap!

I posted up a couple pics on the blog showing the difference in the gauges dimmed and full bright.

Tomorrow the True Trac LSD gets installed by the local 4x4 shop.

 

Its not only the axle seals, its the diff gasket too that is going to be replaced. same with the clutch as stated above. I just do not have the time to do it myself otherwise i would be.

 

It's interesting that you say your stock truck was hitting the low 11's, speedy. I was testing out different fuel map values the other day, and I noticed that when my AFR was set for around 11.1 - 11.5, I was making what felt like a pretty good increase in power. I brought it back to about 12.0:1 per Gadget's U-Tune guide, but it did feel like some power was gone. So here is my thought process. If the Toyota ECU hits low 11's stock, shouldn't I be setting my map to hit low 11's as well?

 

I'm not sure on that one. Maybe ask Gadget. I actually even saw 10.9 AFR momentarily during a long WOT run.

I DO know from years of tuning motorcycles that 13:1 is the desired AFR, however that's on much lighter machines.

I'd think 11.8 is where I'm gonna shoot for on my 4Runner.

 

Toyota programs most of there newer vehicles to run really rich at WOT to allow for a good margin of saftey. Meaning if you have a vacuum leak, install aftermarket parts that cause your engine to take on more air, it would blow.

PS. The afr that Ive always shot for is 11-11.5 with the trd supercharger sinces is a roots-type s/c. The extra fuel is used to cool egt so you dont burn seals.

 

THe thermostat will lower the engine coolant temps reducing some ping, but not as much as you think. The thermostat should be used as a supporting mod on top of fuel mods, to create an extra margin of saftey...and if you wanted to it allows you to use less retard then you would normally without a lower temp thermo.

 

I got the TrueTrac installed today and so far I'm VERY impressed. First of all the local 4WheelParts shop did an AWESOME job. They have to be the most meticulous shop I've ever dealt with. They wrapped the entire driver's area in plastic to avoid any sweat/grease from getting on anything, then when I checked out the guy went over a check off sheet where the install tech had to initial beside the torque values he used on all the bolts down to the wheel lug nuts. I found that pretty impressive.

The TrueTrac is completely un-noticeable in normal driving. However I put one wheel on gravel and the other on dry pavement and hammered the gas and got almost zero wheel spin. That's pretty impressive for an LSD type unit.

I think that will cover any traction concerns I had with the SC.

Oh, and the shop wouldn't let me into the work area to take photographs of the install, so they took them for me with their own camera! I only asked for four different shots and they ended up taking about 20 to make sure they covered everything all the way down to showing the backlash on the ring and pinion!

 

I've posted the article of my gauge installation on my site. It's under the "Performance Gauges" link on the left.

TONS of pics.

www.hooliganbiketech.net/sportrunner

 

Planning to do the SC install on Saturday. Any last minute advice?