I gotta say that the whole waiting 1 min before you can start your truck.....thats friggen balls guys.

I dont understand why they have not updated there hardware to accept real time tuning. That is the crappiest thing i have ever heard! I tuned one FTC for a local customer here and he had to pay for a lot more dyno time than any other piece of hardware out there.

/rant

Anything below 1psi you will be running lean....there is nothing you can do about it. Heck even above 1psi before you go 90%+ throttle you will still have the FTC-E fighting the stock ecu because the esc1 unit built into the ftc doesn't work for long periods of time before stopping until you blip the throttle again.

This is the reason why i have 2 smt6's in my truck, one for open loop the other for closed loop. Playing around with that right now and i have it running 16:1 at light throttle cruse and 13.9:1 as i start to get on the throttle underload until open loop hits and the second smt6 is now in control which brings me to 13.3:1. I am running N/A right now i dont need to run rich

Its working great so far and i have no problems with the ecu at all

 

Well i have 2 more things to check, Im sure my truck is due for a new o2 sensor in the first place. Since a bad one will make it run lean (which is my case right now) im going to replace the o2 sensor before the cat. That is the last possible thing that can be wrong before pointing fingers at the ftc. so wish me luck that its just a bad o2 sensor. by the way, the truck has 109k on it being 11 years old with the stock o2. I dont think it will hurt to change it either way.

 

Good idea. That way at least you know for sure it's not that part. Keep us posted, I'm dying to know what the problem is.

 

Can you not use a PSC piece in conjunction with the FTC on your truck? My PSC calibrator tunes the part throttle AFR along with what i change in my AFC.

 

UPDATE:

Well, that is the first and last time i install a damn front o2 on a 4runner 4x4. Took me over an hour and a half just to figure out how to unclip the old one. For those with a 4x4 you need 2 people. Take off your center console to get to the boot covering the transmission. Remove the boot and you can see the connectors under there, and you need someone with needle nose plyers to pinch the clip and the other person to pull it apart under the truck.

Anyways. It seems like it removed some of the ping. But its still running lean to what we have the maps at... Now there is one last thing i can do and that is to try to richen it up through the ftc...... It may have been just possible that we got a good tune off a bad o2 sensor... thats what im praying on. If that doesnt work well then the only assumption is the ftc is bad. And i cannot afford to have my truck down another month because im sure URD will want to get the ftc and test it before they send me a new one.........

Now that i have been paying more attention to the AFR's, i do notice that when i do let off the gas it does get rich right away. then goes into cut off. Immediatly when i let off the throttle, the lowest i have seen it go is like 11.9 afr. And this happens at any time in vacume or boost at any rpm. Do you know of something greedy????

 

They must have changed something in the later models. On my 2002 4x4 getting the front O2 sensor unplugged was pretty easy. The connector was attached to a bracket that bolts to the tranny. I just simply unhooked it.

 

Yeah mines bolted to a bracket too, but on top of the transmission, where you cant reach around to get to it. only way to get to it is from the driver side in one tiny spot and under the shifter boots.

 

Weird. Mine's bolted to the connection at the tranny cooler line on the passenger side.

 

For whatever reason, the "E" function on the FTC-E like you have did not work on my truck. It would esentially cause my 02 sensor to "lock-up" as gadget put it. My symptoms were:

1. While in part throttle, low boost situations, my afr's would stay at 14.7 for awhile and then eventually richen up. However, when they richened up, it plummeted to 10's even after I trimmed out fuel with the FTC-E. What was happening is the signal sent by the FTC-E to confuse the stock ecu was causing the stock map to go ultra rich. Since it was inconsistent, I could not tune the problem away.

2. After the above mentioned occured, My afr's would go super rich again to the 10's while still in vacuum! Even though the FTC-E was not sending the signal (triggered by boost), my stock ecu was "locked up" and would keep dumping fuel even though I was in vacuum. I would be crusing along at 50 mph or so and lightly press the gas (10%). I would be reading about -10hg vacuum but my afr's would dive down to 10's and sometimes even 9's. Further, when I would come to a stop, I would stumble and lean out to the point that I would stall.

It does not seem like you are having this issue though. When you let off the gas, it is normal for it to read a bit rich untill your wideband starts seeing a steady stream of exhaust again. If you do start having some of my symptoms though, try bypassing the 02 hook up wires going to the FTC-E and see if they go away.

Good Luck!

Gregg

 

Mine tries staying at 14.7 all the time. Until i hit open loop. then it richens it up.

Explain what you mean by bypassing the o2 hook up. Connect it back to stock? and leave the other 2 from the ftc tapped off?

 

Yes, bypassing just to get the 02 part back to stock. However, it does not seem that you are having the same issue I was.

Do you know when you have the E function to trigger? You can set the point (usually around 2 psi) at which you want to try and control the AFR's in closed loop.

 

How do you adjust that?

 

We just left it at 7psi, which what came with the unit. We had it working properly having it set there, that is if we are talking about the same thing. but now all of a sudden it doesnt want to work anymore.

for the ftc-e model go to output settings, set output b mode to over pressure and set the over pressure to 4 psi. Is this what your talking about. this is what the U-Tune guide says.

 

just ask to see if you can get another one and send yours back so there is the least amount of downtime. Thats personally how i have handled similar situations before.

 

Yup - thats how you set the triggering point. I tried all psi amounts with no luck.

 

Yeup...... I just tried the same thing and it was a no go.....

And mastacox. I let mine just sit for like 3 - 5 minutes keys out of the ignition and all. And got the error P0100 again..... something definetly isnt right. because when we first tuned it. i waited 30 seconds to 1 min and no CEL at all......

 

Well, this morning on my way to work, i did notice when im not in boost, its would start to get rich, but the lowest i seen it go was 11.0 probly cause i couldnt hold it long enough to get it to 9 like yours was getting to because by that time id be doing quite a bit over the speed limit.

So by bypassing the o2 wires, what is this actually going to tell me? How is the FTC then supposed to feed it more fuel if its not connected to it? or now with it bypassed, it will only engage in open loop or at the set psi??

 

By re-hooking up the stock 02 sensor wires, you will just be bypassing "E" Function of the FTC-E. You will still have control over your fuel, but only in open loop at WOT. You should not be seeing your afr's in the 11's while in vacuum - that is waaay too rich. Your stock ecu should be trimming fuel out of your larger aftermarket injectors until it sees 14.7:1. With the stock 02 sensor wires hooked back up to a stock configuration, it will also try to keep your afr's at 14.7 all the way through part throttle- low boost situations untill you hit open loop - WOT. At that point you can alter the afr's by adding and subtracting fuel with your ftc.

The "e" function is supposed to let you add and subtract fuel while in part throttle but had some undesirable side effects for me. However, one of the problems I had was it going rich while still in vacuum Immeditaley when the throttle was even just barley tapped on. I could be going 15 mph, tap the throttle and it would dive down to 10's without even increasing speed. Yours doesn't sound like it is doing it that severly if at all. Try tuning it first and just keep an eye out for some of the symptoms I have mentioned.

 

But......

The thing I dont understand is, it worked just fine for a week after the initial tune. Then decided to go bonkers.

And the pinging is still there

 

Have you pulled any timing to try and get rid of the pinging?