Mine does that too.

 

'k, good call, and they're great batteries, but remember that the battery you have now could be good, but the alternator just isn't kicking enough to charge it.

See if you can find a shop that will do a bench test of the alt... some Schucks/Kreger's will do it. Don't fall for the test with the battery hooked up, it's not as "pure".

 

Yeah, the odd thing though is that when i left his house, he lives like 20 - 30 miles from me, mostly all freeway. after getting off the freeway heading back home, i took the chance to test to see if it was still wiggin out, and everything worked just fine. so the drive on the freeway charged the battery back up? or a bump knocked the connection back on enough to supply the ftc with enough power. Im lost.

 

Well, it didnt do that when were were tuning it to get rid of the ping at all. which is the first time we were tuning it. It just happened when all this other comotion took place.

 

Naw, cause when everything went back to normal it was reading the proper afr's to what we set according to the ftc. And if the lm-1 was bad, that wouldnt cause me to ping in all boost and rpm ranges. when we first got the initial tune for me to drive it safely in and out of boost using the lm-1. so i dont think its safe to say its bad.

 

Where is the lm1 reading battery voltage?

At that low of a voltage your dash light would be on signifying that something is wrong. Remember the LM1 HAS to power a wideband heater so if y ou are taking power from a source that has a very weak power line (small gauge wire) then you will have a massive voltage drop.

If you verify that yout voltage is low at the battery then you will never get a good tune. Voltage drop like that severly affects the performance of your injectors, and without proper compensation you will not have a good tune.

Your ecu has a built in battery voltage compensation map but that is for stock setup only and once you hit open loop the compensation and under boost the compensation wont help you out enough which will lean out the injectors.

 

the lm1 is pulling power from the cigarette lighter and it reads it when its warming up the sensor.

I just got done talking to a mechanic here at my plant and he tested the battery. its fine, and then we hooked up the meter when the truck was started and it was reading 14. so as of now both alt and bat are good. Hes suggesting there is a ground that is loose somewhere. which i can see because ground is a very important part.

 

If alt and batt check out, ground gets my vote as well.

 

Did you ever follow up on that and call up gadget to see what he had to say about it?

 

I may have failed to mention earlier that i had rinsed off under the hood including the batter earlier that day. But it ran perfectly fine until we tried to start to tune it. So, it may be the ground post terminal. some of the corrosion may have seeped inbetween the post and the terminal causing a bad connection. I will be going over all the wiring and cleaning the batter + terminal with some baking soda and water as soon as i get home today. If the problem persists, it just maybe a bad unit

 

Do you have the stock battery terminals? I don't like the design having two separate bands wrap around the post. I had a problem with my 98 where it was actually arcing from one band to the other. I went to my buddy's audio shop and got a nice one made for car stereos and didn't have a problem after.

 

Naw, i replaced those when i replaced the battery.

Just cleaned the terminals, and now its stumbling real bad at idle..... Im starting to believe the ftc is bad.

 

Nope, I just reset it each time.

 

WOW that was a lot of reading. Umm all very interesting and good to learn since Im starting this process.

I know you guys were talking about different units and was wondering if this might become something helpful?

"We have some new calibration units on the way to us that combine the AIC/Timing Calibrator with the AFR Sensor Calibrator in the same box. You may want one of those when they are available to save a few $ instead of buy two different units. The AFR Sensor Calibrator function is not adjustable however. It uses a preset map that we have developed over the last year or so tuning all the different boosted 5vz applications."

That is quoted from Gadget just two days ago. Just thought Id throw it out there to see if it made any difference.

 

do any of ya'll know any of the cam specs/ head flow rates of a 5vzfe?

 

Mine does this, but only if I don't let the FTC sit for about a minute after changing the map. If you wait a little bit longer before starting your engine after you change something, the problem will go away.

 

Just a quick update:

Cleaned the posts and terminals yesterday when i got home from work. Didnt make a difference. And it was too damn hot outside to check the wiring to the ECU in the sun, 107F outside . Tonight ill have the garage to go over the wiring, which i know 100% they are good. but before i call gadget I want to make sure everything is connected good and proper. I know its not the boost line that goes to the ftc itself, because when i hook up the laptop to it, the box's follow according to rpm and boost/vacume. So right there alone is telling me its getting power to the unit otherwise i would not be able to connect it to the laptop.

Im getting a strong feeling its the FTC thats bad .

 

Ohh yeah, forgot to ask, Do you guys know how the stock ecu runs with the LM-1 connected to it?

Heres what im thinking:

The ecu tried to run an AFR of 14.7 all the time in closed loop? Then once it hits open loop it runs it a bit richer to around 12.0 - 12.5 AFR??? because this is what my truck is doing right now, even if i make changes to the map. I cna only get it to hit the 12.0 at WOT. anything before that it runs at 14.7 and then even sometimes get leaner.

This only occures in 1psi and above, anywhere in vacume it stays at 14.7. So i can safely drive the truck as long as i dont boost it.

 

Not sure if you have one cause i came in on the 16th page... but you should definitely get an O2 sensor calibrator so that your part throttle boost will be better tuned (12.5-13.5 AFR). I got one and even with my 12 psi pulley i never saw 14's in boost AT ALL!

 

I have the split second ftc-e, which there isnt much calibration i cant do with that sensor, because the stock ecu tries to fight the ftc settings to keep it at 14.7 which is stock. and understandable if your not in boost or racing around. It only tries to condition it when your pressing the pedal down slightly to prevent it from going too lean.