!!Speedy's Supercharger Thread!!
05-10-2007 | 06:39 AM
#261
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From: Fort Worth, TX
The ESC1 does affect wither the engine is in open or closed loop...Mark even you should have seen this(or maybe i just did 
)...
Using the scanner you will SEE when the ECU is in open or closed it says right on the screen. As SOON as you hit the ESC1 setpoint (what is it...something like 1-2psi?) the screen changes from CLOSED to OPEN. Remove the ESC1 and goto the SAME pressure/throttle point and the screen will read CLOSED. The problem i see with the ESC1 is that it goes into OPEN loop like it is supposed to but after a short period of time (0-80mph accel at 3-4psi) it will start going closed-open-open-closed-open and the afr goes screwy....so yes the ESC1 does make it go into open loop.
Thats what confuses me about the whole thing...and of course you can tell the ecu to go into open loop when you want it to...just manipulate it To bad us AUTO guys cant do this 
Or im just on crack.....i dunno...
)...Using the scanner you will SEE when the ECU is in open or closed it says right on the screen. As SOON as you hit the ESC1 setpoint (what is it...something like 1-2psi?) the screen changes from CLOSED to OPEN. Remove the ESC1 and goto the SAME pressure/throttle point and the screen will read CLOSED. The problem i see with the ESC1 is that it goes into OPEN loop like it is supposed to but after a short period of time (0-80mph accel at 3-4psi) it will start going closed-open-open-closed-open and the afr goes screwy....so yes the ESC1 does make it go into open loop.
Thats what confuses me about the whole thing...and of course you can tell the ecu to go into open loop when you want it to...just manipulate it
To bad us AUTO guys cant do this Or im just on crack.....i dunno...
The ESC1 plugs into the wires for the oxygen sensor, and nothing else... and there is no signal that can come from the oxygen sensor to make the ECU go into Open Loop (and there's no magic wire that you send a signal through to trigger Open-Loop operation), so it is my suspicion that you are seeing some sort of an artifact of something else going on behind the scenes...
Last edited by mastacox; 05-10-2007 at 06:42 AM.
05-10-2007 | 06:45 AM
#262
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Indeed, but the REAL question: is it the ESC1's fault, or are our ECU's extraordinarily hard to fake out? This is important because it could be that the same thing will happen with an SMT-6 or -7 that is trying to do the same thing...
05-10-2007 | 09:38 AM
#263
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From: Vancouver, Canada
Well, I'll have to check this to see for myself, but I REALLY don't think this is the case. In the past when tuning I have physically seen my ECU in Closed Loop, with fuel trim at or near zero, and running at 12.0:1 AFR. This tells me that "sometimes" the FTC1-E works as advertised and allows Closed-Loop tuning, by making the ECU think the AFR is 14.7:1.
The ESC1 plugs into the wires for the oxygen sensor, and nothing else... and there is no signal that can come from the oxygen sensor to make the ECU go into Open Loop (and there's no magic wire that you send a signal through to trigger Open-Loop operation), so it is my suspicion that you are seeing some sort of an artifact of something else going on behind the scenes...
The ESC1 plugs into the wires for the oxygen sensor, and nothing else... and there is no signal that can come from the oxygen sensor to make the ECU go into Open Loop (and there's no magic wire that you send a signal through to trigger Open-Loop operation), so it is my suspicion that you are seeing some sort of an artifact of something else going on behind the scenes...
I do agree that the stinkin esc1 sometimes work.
05-10-2007 | 09:45 AM
#264
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From: Vancouver, Canada
I can see THIS option (much like the esc1) to have similar results.....
Option 2: SMT6 or 7's ability to TUNE LAMBDA....
You DO NOT tune the truck via the maf anymore, now its just telling the stock ecu that its not at 14.7:1 instead its at say 15.2:1 at which point the ecu will be like "OH SNAP" and richen out the mixture which is what YOU want. So you see the o2 sensor will still work but you are modifying what the ecu sees.
05-10-2007 | 02:40 PM
#265
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From: Nashville, TN
I got to see and ride in a SC'd 3.4L Tacoma today for the first time. A guy here locally has a 2001 S-Runner with the SC on it, TRD headers, and high flow cat. He has about 50,000 SC'd miles with no other upgrades but is well aware of URD and the kits and has plans to get one down the road. He's apparently set the by-pass valve to 5psi to keep it somewhat reasonable, but admits to driving the truck very aggressively.
It was an interesting ride. The power is pretty substantial. Even though that S-Runner is a lighter vehicle than my 4Runner, and a 5 speed, I believe with the fuel and timing upgrades I'll be right there with him.
It was pretty cool to feel the back end pushing out with that TRD LSD in action when he got on it hard. It was a balmy 87 degrees and humid here today to boot.
It was an interesting ride. The power is pretty substantial. Even though that S-Runner is a lighter vehicle than my 4Runner, and a 5 speed, I believe with the fuel and timing upgrades I'll be right there with him.
It was pretty cool to feel the back end pushing out with that TRD LSD in action when he got on it hard. It was a balmy 87 degrees and humid here today to boot.
05-11-2007 | 09:33 AM
#267
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I found another good SC 4Runner resource page. Somehow this guy's 97 model 5 speed wasn't too terrible on AFRs without any upgrades, even with a 2.2" pulley.
http://n8rws.com/TRD9.htm
I e-mailed and he now has 130K miles on the 4Runner with 94K SC'd. Other than clutch issues he's not had problems.
He also used a TrueTrac and told me he had issues with it after 25K miles, but he said he's done 100s of drag strip runs and constantly slams gears on the street. He said it didn't detonate or anything, but started making funny sounds and he found small metal pieces in the diff fluid. The TrueTrac still worked, but he decided to remove it and found the pinion gears had scuffed the side of the case.
I'm not sure which TrueTrac he owned, but supposedly the new one I ordered is beefed up and has a new part number (913A610). Eaton has one in a 9 second car and says they haven't had any problems.
http://n8rws.com/TRD9.htm
I e-mailed and he now has 130K miles on the 4Runner with 94K SC'd. Other than clutch issues he's not had problems.
He also used a TrueTrac and told me he had issues with it after 25K miles, but he said he's done 100s of drag strip runs and constantly slams gears on the street. He said it didn't detonate or anything, but started making funny sounds and he found small metal pieces in the diff fluid. The TrueTrac still worked, but he decided to remove it and found the pinion gears had scuffed the side of the case.
I'm not sure which TrueTrac he owned, but supposedly the new one I ordered is beefed up and has a new part number (913A610). Eaton has one in a 9 second car and says they haven't had any problems.
Last edited by Speedy; 05-11-2007 at 09:36 AM.
05-11-2007 | 09:56 AM
#268
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From: Seattleish, WA
I found another good SC 4Runner resource page. Somehow this guy's 97 model 5 speed wasn't too terrible on AFRs without any upgrades, even with a 2.2" pulley.
http://n8rws.com/TRD9.htm
http://n8rws.com/TRD9.htm
It's a cheap way to get more pressure, but it's not the best thing to do given that you're basically pushing the stock fuel pump past it's design limits.
05-11-2007 | 10:23 AM
#269
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From: Nashville, TN
Note the "Kenne Bell Boost a pump", this is a voltage kicker that makes the fuel pump spin faster which increases the fuel pressure.
It's a cheap way to get more pressure, but it's not the best thing to do given that you're basically pushing the stock fuel pump past it's design limits.
It's a cheap way to get more pressure, but it's not the best thing to do given that you're basically pushing the stock fuel pump past it's design limits.
05-11-2007 | 11:29 AM
#271
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From: Vancouver, Canada
yep....heat stress and detonation will lower the durability of the engine...hes only at 94k...im at 240k....he may not see that number.
05-11-2007 | 11:32 AM
#272
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From: Nashville, TN
Most people seem to have really good success with the 2 step cooler plugs and 160 thermostat, water wetter combo.
I'm going to use the timing control in the 7th inj controller with the above solutions.
05-11-2007 | 12:30 PM
#274
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From: Nashville, TN
05-11-2007 | 01:04 PM
#276
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I've completed the NA gas mileage research.
87 Octane = 19.66MPG 60/40 Hwy/City consistent route over 1 week
93 Octane = 21.05 MPG 60/40 Hwy/City consistent route over 1 week
Same air temps, same tire pressures, same everything. Gas from same station as well.
Kind of interesting. On past 3.4L powered vehicles they did better with 87 when I did this same study. I ran a few tanks of each to make sure the computer had plenty of time to learn as well before doing the calcs.
87 Octane = 19.66MPG 60/40 Hwy/City consistent route over 1 week
93 Octane = 21.05 MPG 60/40 Hwy/City consistent route over 1 week
Same air temps, same tire pressures, same everything. Gas from same station as well.
Kind of interesting. On past 3.4L powered vehicles they did better with 87 when I did this same study. I ran a few tanks of each to make sure the computer had plenty of time to learn as well before doing the calcs.
05-12-2007 | 07:41 PM
#277
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From: Nashville, TN
Did a test today with the Autometer full sweep electric gauge to see if the sender needed a ground. NOPE it doesn't. Dropped the sender in a glass of hot water and it read the temp just fine.
However, I suspect it uses the ground at the gauge, which means I won't be able to tie into the factory dimmer for the gauge illumination as that would throw off the temp reading.
However, I suspect it uses the ground at the gauge, which means I won't be able to tie into the factory dimmer for the gauge illumination as that would throw off the temp reading.
05-12-2007 | 09:13 PM
#278
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From: Seattleish, WA
??? You should just be able to run the white wire to the dimmer. it won't have any affect on the sensor reading.
05-13-2007 | 08:39 AM
#280
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Guys over there reported having to tie both wires into the dimmer rheostat, one on each side in order for the dimming function to work.
Here's a link on the topic. So knowing that, think it will affect tranny temp reading at the gauge? I would ask Autometer, but their tech support isn't the best.
http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51822
