24. After detaching the speedo cable from the undercarriage, pull it out of the cab completely.

25. Replace the cable and thread the ebrake cable through the bracket in the reverse way you pulled it out.

26. The rest is just the reverse of how it was disassembled.

 

Things that I thought about in retrospect:

1. Be very careful how the e-brake cable is removed/installed. The same goes for the new speedo cable. One very acute bend in the cable may permanently crimp it, and you'll be looking at more money for replacement.

2. Before bolting down the speedo bracket to the cab floor, use the slackness in the loose speedo cable to reinstall the cluster to the speedo cable. It's a big pain otherwise trying to get them to connect with a short speedo cable.

3. Double check to make sure the heat resistant rubber wrap on the speedo cable does not make direct contact with any hot areas under the fire wall. I've heard that this can be a source of problems if it melts through the cable. Secure the soft tabs on the cable clamp that's already attached to the firewall to keep the cables off the hot metal below. See step 21 for a pic.

 

For some reason, the noise just quit the day after the fix. So far, no noise and the needle has been silky smooth!!!

 

2 weeks and counting. No more noise coming from the speedo cable. Yaaaaahoooooo!!!

 

I am going to have to do this on my 2nd gen :cry:


I am wondering how difficult it is going to be to get the instrument panel removed ? Or is it about the same as the 1 gen? Are there any on-line manuals or write ups that show how to remove the dash? I know it's kinda a dumb question , I just like to see what I am getting into before I start something .

Also is the stealer going to be the only place to get this cable?

 

Instrument pannel is the easy part. just a philips screw driver and a 10mm socket.

one cheater tip: instead of removing the ebrake cable, just cut the hole that the ebrake goes through where it goes through the floor. bend the metal braket, remove cable. do the same on the new bracket, bend back straight. it worked for me. i started removing the ebrake stuff and i said forget that.

the bracket that i'm talking about is in picture number 17. i just cut it near the top straight through. bent it out of the way and the ebrake cable came out.

 

:pat: Whats the hard part?

 

I found the hardest part trying to get the end of the new speedo cable to fit back into the cluster. There is a better way that I stumbled upon at a later time. Simply pull the speedo cable from inside the cab to give you more slack. Plug the slackened speedo cable into the cluster and then remove the slack by pushing it through the floor from within the cab. Much easier...

Troy

 

hardest part for me was getting it over the tranny, while it's still warm

 

What all needs to come off before I can get to the cluster?? everything?

 

https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...lo/l33t35t.htm

here's my review on how to install new gauges. shows all steps on how to remove the cluster. enjoy

 

thanks!

 

Thanks guys. I just replaced my speedo cable on my 95 4runner and all of this information was a big help. My install took me total around 3 hours and I am no pro.

I am not much into mechanics, but since I bought my 95 this fall. I have been learning a lot and saving a lot of money too.

 

I just did this to my 86 4runner, what a PITA! Getting the bitch over the trans was stupid. I couldnt have done it wothout 2 people. And getting the gauge cluster out was also very hard because the speedo cable didnt allow any slack to pull it forward so that i could get my hand back there to disconnect it. I have the turbo's digital gauges so idk if its any different. Finnally got it all done, NOW I KNOW HOW FAST IM GOING!!! YAY!!! Been guessing for weeks.

 

not seeing any pix...

however,
fwiw i just did the speedometer cable on a 88 Toyota 4x4 with 3.0 engine and it has the e-brake cable through the firewall plate that is attached to the speedometer cable and what ive done was simply cut the plate to allow the e brake cable to not be disturbed

worked great.


further notes.

the new cable was longer, allowing the re-attachment to the cluster must easier
attach the drive line part 1st, and the cluster part last
remember the bendable tabs to keep the new cable in place.
done.

 

Thanks for posting this guys. Especially cutting the bracket. Whole job took me an hour and a half because I read this first.

 

wish i could see the pics

 

Ijust did it on a 95 4runner the hardest part was all the switches in the dash.

 

Every thing!!!!!!

 

I can't see the pics or start a new thread? Help us!!!