Spark plug stuck?
#1
Spark plug stuck?
Today I started changing my spark plugs and the front right plug seemed very tight. I changed all of them but that one. It was able to come out a turn or so then just got tight as hell. I decided to run it down to the shop that changed them last asking what he thought. I assumed maybe they cross threaded the plug into the cylinder threads. After telling him what was going on he asked how much water I have been going through. I replied "not a drop". I know he was thinking my head gasket was leaking and that it rusted up or something keeping the plug in place. Well he ends up telling me to try WD40 to get it out. then goes on to tell me if need be he can do a re-thread job on it and told me the shop rates. this is the same shop that after doing a timing belt job and tune up had broke my throttle body tube (told me they just break like that) busted off a fuel rail bolt (said they break sometimes) but has never taken responsibility for their foul ups. I hope the spark plug comes out tomorrow after I WD40 it. Thoughts?
#2
Mine were tight...REALLY TIGHT. They were last changed about a 100K ago. I got on them with a 1/2" ratchet...something I wouldn't recommend to anyone, because of the danger of breaking the plug off. But ya do what ya gotta do.
As for the shop. Why do you keep going back? They got a cute mechanic or somethin'? Bad mechanics and high prices are what push me to do more all the time.
As for the shop. Why do you keep going back? They got a cute mechanic or somethin'? Bad mechanics and high prices are what push me to do more all the time.
#3
Originally Posted by gwhayduke
Mine were tight...REALLY TIGHT. They were last changed about a 100K ago. I got on them with a 1/2" ratchet...something I wouldn't recommend to anyone, because of the danger of breaking the plug off. But ya do what ya gotta do.
As for the shop. Why do you keep going back? They got a cute mechanic or somethin'? Bad mechanics and high prices are what push me to do more all the time.
As for the shop. Why do you keep going back? They got a cute mechanic or somethin'? Bad mechanics and high prices are what push me to do more all the time.
#4
Originally Posted by gwhayduke
Mine were tight...REALLY TIGHT. They were last changed about a 100K ago. I got on them with a 1/2" ratchet...something I wouldn't recommend to anyone, because of the danger of breaking the plug off. But ya do what ya gotta do.
#6
I changed some spark plugs on a friend of mine's Chevrolet a couple of weeks ago. A few of them were really tight. I got them all out, but had to fix the threads on one of the holes. I used a spark plug thread chaser thing I got at Autozone; it worked very well and was a life-saver. I think the plugs can get pretty tight from heating and cooling so much, even if they were installed fine initially. Good deal you got it out though.
-Nathan Buchanan
-Nathan Buchanan
#7
When that happens to me(it's always the hardest plug to get to usually), They usually will come out easily if the engine is nice and hot.
Most people change there plugs on a cold motor so they don't get brunt, but when that one plug is tight , a hot engine works usually.
Most people change there plugs on a cold motor so they don't get brunt, but when that one plug is tight , a hot engine works usually.
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#8
Originally Posted by Nathan Buchanan
I changed some spark plugs on a friend of mine's Chevrolet a couple of weeks ago. A few of them were really tight. I got them all out, but had to fix the threads on one of the holes. I used a spark plug thread chaser thing I got at Autozone; it worked very well and was a life-saver. I think the plugs can get pretty tight from heating and cooling so much, even if they were installed fine initially. Good deal you got it out though.
-Nathan Buchanan
-Nathan Buchanan
#9
Originally Posted by 86toyota
When that happens to me(it's always the hardest plug to get to usually), They usually will come out easily if the engine is nice and hot.
Most people change there plugs on a cold motor so they don't get brunt, but when that one plug is tight , a hot engine works usually.
Most people change there plugs on a cold motor so they don't get brunt, but when that one plug is tight , a hot engine works usually.
#10
Aw heck, I thought you said you got it out. I'd just keep spraying WD40 on it and use a big breaker bar and an extension. Also, what works for me sometimes is putting a slightly smaller (maybe 3/4" or so) deep wall socket on top of the plug and giving it a slight whack with a hammer. This might help free it up a bit. Try not to bust off the plug though; that wouldn't be good . I'll bet you can get it off. Good luck
-Nathan
-Nathan
#11
Originally Posted by Nathan Buchanan
Aw heck, I thought you said you got it out. I'd just keep spraying WD40 on it and use a big breaker bar and an extension. Also, what works for me sometimes is putting a slightly smaller (maybe 3/4" or so) deep wall socket on top of the plug and giving it a slight whack with a hammer. This might help free it up a bit. Try not to bust off the plug though; that wouldn't be good . I'll bet you can get it off. Good luck
-Nathan
-Nathan
#12
Originally Posted by Nathan Buchanan
I used a spark plug thread chaser thing I got at Autozone
(See my gas cap thread... they never responded to me )
When using one of those how do you keep the depris from getting into the engine?
#14
LOL, yeah autozone is kinda like Satan. When I used the spark plug hootus, I didn't notice any slivers of metal at all; I think it pretty much straightened the threads out. Most of the junk that could have got in the cylinder normally would have got in the anyway from removing and replacing a spark plug. I suppose a small sliver of metal could have got in the cylinder, but I doubt it was enough to hurt anything. It sured beats the heck out of taking the head off and tapping a new hole, though.
-Nathan
-Nathan
#15
Originally Posted by 934rnr
The Toyota FSM says to put antiseize on the threads of the plugs when you reinstall them. I did they come out way easy now.
As for breaking the plug, or not breaking the plug. When you get on it with a breaker, use a good 6-point socket and make sure that you have correct extension and keep everything aligned properly. Recheck the alignment often as you nurse it out.
#17
My biggest fear before I changed my plugs last week was having one not come out. I didn't use anti-seize and thought (with my luck) one would be stuck. But luck was with me and they all came out fine. The new ones had antiseize on them!
Like Hondatec said, try PB Blaster, that stuff works very good!
Like Hondatec said, try PB Blaster, that stuff works very good!
#18
Who installs their spark plugs with an impact gun?
I wouldn't worry about breaking your spark plug, all your going to do is break the porcelain anyway,
it shouldn't effect the part that goes into your head.
If you do break it off it could actually help you by letting you use a shorter socket thus causing less movement from side to side.
I wouldn't worry about breaking your spark plug, all your going to do is break the porcelain anyway,
it shouldn't effect the part that goes into your head.
If you do break it off it could actually help you by letting you use a shorter socket thus causing less movement from side to side.
#19
I would use the anti-sieze compound. Other than that, follow the above suggestions and above all BE PATIENT! I know when I get frustrated and rushed, I am more likely to mess something up. Good luck!
#20
Use a torque wrench when you put the new plugs in.
I've always used anti-sieze compound on the threads. I also use it on back of my rotors, caliper bolts, many other places.
I've always used anti-sieze compound on the threads. I also use it on back of my rotors, caliper bolts, many other places.
Last edited by Bluto; 09-08-2004 at 10:06 AM.