Drill out the stripped screw head. One screw and some zip ties will hold it in fine when you're done. Not an uncommon problem...

 

When oiling a K&N you have to "oil sparingly" as the folks at K&N told me on the phone years ago.

 

I will give that a shot CYi5...Thanks!

Yeah the K&N just was a bad idea to get...I thought it would help. I've oiled it once and didn't really use alot. JUNK! Hope the clean works..Probably should just get a new one with 135K

 

Did you pull any vacuum lines somewhere in the process?

 

Just the 2 on the airbox/tube...nothing else

 

Have you ever replaced the O2 sensor(s) on your rig? I replaced both for a friend last year who had the same CEL code and that did do the trick, but in your situation, it could be a dirty/dead MAF. For the O2 sensors, either toyota or denso, no other brand. As the P0171 indicates, it is mostly like a faulty sensor (Oxygen, MAF, or ECT).

Also, if you did not take the time to check the gap of the plugs, do so. If you do not have the right tool, buy a spark plug gap wire gauge in which one of the wire sizes is either .043 or .044. When I bought my plugs at O"reilys in March, one was gapped close to .025 out of the box. That is way too tight. There is a good tutorial on the Web (maybe Youtube) of how to properly gap them.

 

No it has the original O2 sensors...Where can I get a wire gauge? I was concerned about the gap myself, but I can't seem to find the gauge anywhere local to check

 

Kragens, Checkers, O'Rileys, Autozone, Pepboys, even Sears. Ask them and tell them the gap you are looking for and for less than $10, you should be good to go. KD Tools # 165 is the kind you are looking for but they do not have the correct wire size.

I would imagine now it is the O2 sensor, probably Bank 1. This is unless you live in the Golden State, where there is an A/F sensor to contend with. Use the search engine to find out how to change them.....

 

carefully clean the maf... especially after the k&n Get maf safe cleaner for it though.

 

And i know folks have heard me say this--but it is time to replace some sensors....as others have said also

O2/AFR's, TPS, MAF if beyond repair cleaning.....----I would also pull the injectors quick and send them out to be tested & cleaned--not enough time--try the fuel injector cleaner they use when the truch is running......and check for OIL SLudge...who knows

You are going to have to start testing things--that is the only real way to figure out what is going wrong

 

Thanks hross14 and everyone else. I am going to clean the MAF fully and see if that helps. It is at least drivable now...before it was barely. I agree I need to change the o2...TPS is possible too but I first want to see how cleaning the MAF does. When I cleaned the IAC it seemed to clear up the driving issue, must have been gunked up with junk. I also played around with the coil pack boots to make sure they were good. It is running...not a lot of power..but not crazy bogging down either.

 

MTTOY-- at these kinds of miles (135k) it is just time to change thoe items i mentioned. They wear out and need to be changed. You may clean the MAF and that will fix the problem but for how long?

Why not change all the sensors and be back at square 1? Just saying--Understandable if its not the right time for you either.

At the very least you could ohm/test your sensors and that should eliminate some variables.

Good luck

 

I got a CEL on my '98 when it had around 128K, replaced the O2 sensor and no more issues. I ended up changing out my plugs and wires at 153K.

You stated you had a CEL early on in the post but never said what it was or mentioned if you even checked to see what it was and just started to change stuff. When you disconnected the battery you would clear any CEL codes that were stored in the ECU from previous faults. Replacing all that you did in the initial "tune-up" in and of itself would not be the issue or the complete fix. It should have smoothed out any issue asscoiated with those replaced items. From what I have experienced, changing those items due to rough running with NO CEL should have for the most part fixed the issue you described. But seeing how you had a CEL previously, if you never address the casue of the CEL no matter what you replaced as a part of a normal tune-up at the milage you stated would not resolve the rough start/running, but make it a bit smoother but the issue would still be there.

Now that you have replaced all the items up to this point AND stated the CEL returned with a readable code, you should have a good starting point to resolve the issue at hand. You have eliminated the simple things. Cleaning the MAF after having a K&N filter is a must. Once its clean, I would either attempt another reset of the ECU and drive the truck and see if it returns or if the engine perfomance improves, it not, you need to then continue on the sensor route. The CEL code will give you the options you need to check/replace. #1 on my list would be to look at the O2 sensor. Good luck, sometimes these engines can be a PITA! But for the most part, you will get through it.

 

Thanks guys...so I could not get the last MAF sensor screw out...so I went ahead and put the spray straw on the MAF cleaner can and sprayed in the hole...hope it made it in there..Started the car and not better at all...like it was in the beginning actually...so I replaced the TPS (its the orig so why not) same thing...replaced the fuel filter same thing...replaced the o2 sensor..I had to get a Bosch...it was all that I could find without having to order. It was rough at first, but this time I was determined to have it run I mean the only things left are the MAF, IAC, Injectors..or maybe the timing is off..so I drove it and eventually it started to smooth out. I still don't feel like it is as peppy, but no check engine light and it drives. o2 sensor 100..TPS 60...wires 36...spark plugs 24 not too bad.

 

and by the way...you were right Gerdo. The Bosch O2 looked a little different though...the part that goes into the exhaust isn't as long as the Denso was that was in there. Weird

 

my truck is a Wh*re. I spoke too soon...got a check engine light after driving it for a little longer. Dammit! Haha Oh well..I hate throwing parts at cars. Thats why I was so reluctant to change things. I will get the codes scanned again tomorrow and see whats up. Maybe the MAF is bad.

 

Don't let a little itty bitty screw get the better of you. You're going to have to get it out whether you clean the MAF or replace it.
Either way, you're, uh....

 

yeah I guess I am being a puss...dam screw. I just don't want to mess up the MAF if its not bad yunno? Dealer says 700 to replace...advance auto say 100 for a reman, non denso.

 

I cannot for the life of me figure out how to post on this site, so sorry for butting in on this thread!!! I am replacing a head gasket on a 86 four runner, and cannot get the intake manifold off the head. I have found the hidden allen bolt and have removed all other bolts and the two nuts. The manifold is loose and will move, but it WILL NOT come off...any sugestions? thanks guys,
Eric

 

So I manned up and was able to finally get the screw out of the MAF..I cut into it with a cutoff wheel on a dremel type tool (the extractors stripped it more and did not work) I got it out and it was a dirrty wh*re. cleaned the crap out of it with MAF cleaner and all the crap that was on the little "hairs" eventually came off. I cleaned everything. Put it all back together, unplugged the battery to reset and started it up. Took it for a drive...and I got a chub...its like a new truck again! Acceleration is AWESOME. I am in love. Now its time to put the tundra brakes on...but thats another week. Thanks guys for the help! I figure those sensors, plugs, wires and filter needed replacement anyway..with 135K on the clock and all. Yippeee!