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i actually have a few questions..

has anyone had any trouble with the 1.2 kit on a stock 99 4runner? their ad says that youll need sliders and a class 3 hitch if you have a stock rear bumper. why? whats the conflict? does it actually not work?

also, about sliders, are there any sliders out there that function as a slider, but also make it a little easier to get in and out of the truck?? the ones ive seen appear to make it more difficult.. any that have a step area on them?


lastly, about the various air intake mods...
i think i have it down.. the deckplate mod is where you cut a hole in the stock air box and put a watertight cap there when necessary. the isr mod removes a restrictive peice of plastic and replaces it with a smooth pipe.
but the elbow mod? would that really be necessary if the other 2 are done?? thanks alot!

btw, the green/red wire mod i found on here rocks! Thanx

 

good luck with your mods and feel free to ask questions and browse around for other answers and various fun stuff.

please correct me if any of my information is inaccurate or straight up WRONG , i'm still working on my Yotatech GED when i know some of you have your Doctorate.

 

thanks patywgn..

im stil a little confused tho.
isn't the elbow the first inline in the intake tract?? that being the case, wouldnt removing the elbow really not do much unless you had capped your deckplate hole?(if you had already done the deckplate mod?)

also, anyone know how much it typically costs to install a kit like that?? either the 1.2 or the 7.. thanks

 

My opinion: forget about the deckplate and ISR mod. Waste of time. Minimal gains if any, please use the search and read for yourself: both have been beat to death on YT.

You need additional weight for the SS #1 system. I installed it with just a hitch and it was crazy high/stiff. After the sliders and bumper were installed it works like advertised. Steve recommends certain setups for a reason, and I've found his suggestions to be accurate and worthwhile.

If you don't think you'll need sliders, you probably won't ever reap the advantages the #1 system has over the #7. The 7.. system is very capable on its own.

 

It didn't cost me anything to install the Sonoran 1.1 (now 1.2) system. All it takes is the instructions off Steve's website, some tools, buddies and beer (will cost a bit). I am not mechanically inclined and found it relatively easy. Just took some time due to the rust I was dealing with and had to cut and weld some stuff due to "rust" complications (long story). Otherwise you and some slightly mechanically inclined friends and jacks/tools should easily tackle the job. Remember it's not difficult, just time consuming (8 hours for me and my buddies with air tools). Why pay someone $50-100/hr X 8 hours = ? shop rates when you can do it free? All you are doing is changing out some coil springs (rent a spring compressor for the fronts), shocks, panhard bar, diff drop, rear brake line extension. And do some "searches" on yotatech regarding recommendations/suggestions/information on this particular lift. That's it. (I know I make it sound easy, but aside from some cussing it really wasn't too bad at all).

By the way, I love my lift , absolutely no regrets getting it.

Just my 2 cents.

Cheers and good luck.

 

Buy the kit that matches your vehicle description and wheeling needs as per Sonoran Steel’s site. As Jon stated above “Steve recommends certain setups for a reason, and I've found his suggestions to be accurate and worthwhile”. Don’t bother sourcing the parts yourself, much of the kit is custom fabbed. Quality, performance and customer service are well worth the price.

You could have the front end done by a shop and finish the rest in your garage. Plenty of write-ups around here to get you going.

 

Vermejo is right, Steve at Sonoran was excellent at help determine which lift you need based on your wheeling requirements. And I was very happy with his service.

Cheers