So I've made battling the Strawberry Milkshake my personal conviction
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So I've made battling the Strawberry Milkshake my personal conviction
Some people fight disease, others fight oppression. I will fight the strawberry milkshake, which does't bring (Mod Censored) to the yard, except broken runners. After reading the stories about this, I got red dog mad and decided to spread the word. Of course, my first plan of action is doing the external cooler swap on my own vehicle, then I will inform each and every 4runner owner I know and meet, as well as offer to perform the change for the cost of parts and a 24 pack of Pabst or some delicious steaks.
It's such an easy and cheap fix, but we (the vast majority or 3rd gen 4runner owners) are unaware of the issue. I only learned about this plague about a week ago when I started reading posts here. I went out and found so many posts on this it made me want to vomit in terror. I saw some pics of a disassembled OEM radiator with 11x,xxx miles and I could see how the problem manifests. If I decide to replace my radiator (which only has 12x,xxx miles on it) when I do my TB/WP, I want to cut into the lower portion of the core and expose the cross section where the core and tranny fluid are separated to see if we can identify the specific area where failure occurs. Unless it's been done already, which I'm sure it has.
It's such an easy and cheap fix, but we (the vast majority or 3rd gen 4runner owners) are unaware of the issue. I only learned about this plague about a week ago when I started reading posts here. I went out and found so many posts on this it made me want to vomit in terror. I saw some pics of a disassembled OEM radiator with 11x,xxx miles and I could see how the problem manifests. If I decide to replace my radiator (which only has 12x,xxx miles on it) when I do my TB/WP, I want to cut into the lower portion of the core and expose the cross section where the core and tranny fluid are separated to see if we can identify the specific area where failure occurs. Unless it's been done already, which I'm sure it has.
Last edited by Lysmachia; 01-18-2011 at 10:23 AM. Reason: Filtered Cussword - Read the Rules please
#2
my 2 cents
actually offering to swap radiators is the way to go. external coolers, ...are a headache, don't let anyone lie to you. yes it is easy, but a headache nonetheless (parts, time involved, is it really optimized for the transmission...?
a 01998 radiator is a drop in.
actually offering to swap radiators is the way to go. external coolers, ...are a headache, don't let anyone lie to you. yes it is easy, but a headache nonetheless (parts, time involved, is it really optimized for the transmission...?
a 01998 radiator is a drop in.
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my 2 cents
actually offering to swap radiators is the way to go. external coolers, ...are a headache, don't let anyone lie to you. yes it is easy, but a headache nonetheless (parts, time involved, is it really optimized for the transmission...?
a 01998 radiator is a drop in.
actually offering to swap radiators is the way to go. external coolers, ...are a headache, don't let anyone lie to you. yes it is easy, but a headache nonetheless (parts, time involved, is it really optimized for the transmission...?
a 01998 radiator is a drop in.
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my 2 cents
actually offering to swap radiators is the way to go. external coolers, ...are a headache, don't let anyone lie to you. yes it is easy, but a headache nonetheless (parts, time involved, is it really optimized for the transmission...?
a 01998 radiator is a drop in.
actually offering to swap radiators is the way to go. external coolers, ...are a headache, don't let anyone lie to you. yes it is easy, but a headache nonetheless (parts, time involved, is it really optimized for the transmission...?
a 01998 radiator is a drop in.
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good for you BDTB- spreading the word to all the 3rd gen Runners with automatics is a noble endeavor.
I would agree that for the average owner/driver that the addition of an external tranny cooler is simply overkill and not necessary. But take my advice with a grain of salt-I'm a manny tranny guy.
I would agree that for the average owner/driver that the addition of an external tranny cooler is simply overkill and not necessary. But take my advice with a grain of salt-I'm a manny tranny guy.
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good for you BDTB- spreading the word to all the 3rd gen Runners with automatics is a noble endeavor.
I would agree that for the average owner/driver that the addition of an external tranny cooler is simply overkill and not necessary. But take my advice with a grain of salt-I'm a manny tranny guy.
I would agree that for the average owner/driver that the addition of an external tranny cooler is simply overkill and not necessary. But take my advice with a grain of salt-I'm a manny tranny guy.
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koyo a1998 is the radiator replacement most including myself have used after replacing the OEM one.
Siding with Big Balls, I'd replace the radiator first and if you have $$$ left over, get an external tranny cooler such as the B&M 70264 or Tru Cool 4588 and mount it right up against the condenser....
Siding with Big Balls, I'd replace the radiator first and if you have $$$ left over, get an external tranny cooler such as the B&M 70264 or Tru Cool 4588 and mount it right up against the condenser....
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I had a Koyo put in at 45K thanks to a wonderful front end collision, and I am happy to leave it at that. Especially when the temps are very cold and I want my tranny to warm up fast.
Sure there are the rare days I would like some additional cooling, but I would prefer the everyday benefit of faster-to-warm with the integrated cooler.
Sure there are the rare days I would like some additional cooling, but I would prefer the everyday benefit of faster-to-warm with the integrated cooler.
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Primary enemy of a transmission is heat, and having an external cooler not only completely eliminates the possibility of ever having a milkshake, but also extends the life of your transmission and fluid by keeping it cooler. Not a requirement certainly, and for the majority of 4Runner owners a rad replacement is probably fine, but since this is a website for enthusiasts who take pride in caring for their vehicles, there will be a preponderance of external cooler solutions over radiator replacement.
#13
Primary enemy of a transmission is heat, and having an external cooler not only completely eliminates the possibility of ever having a milkshake, but also extends the life of your transmission and fluid by keeping it cooler. Not a requirement certainly, and for the majority of 4Runner owners a rad replacement is probably fine, but since this is a website for enthusiasts who take pride in caring for their vehicles, there will be a preponderance of external cooler solutions over radiator replacement.
too cold atf is not so great either.
#14
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I'd agree. 2000 was the last year. In May of 1999 it was a real battle to find one here in NJ. I was at the dealer trying to locate one when their new car carrier came in and there was one 5spd on it. I bought it before the wheels hit the ground.
#15
I'm bypassed, and I've been watching my temps with a ScanGauge II for the last 7 months. We've had enough cold weather (below 20 degrees F....it's currently below zero as I type this) at this point, I can confidently say my transmission warms up just fine. 85% of the time, it's warmed up to at least 110, and my coolant temp is still below 170. The other 15% of the time, namely when I let the truck warm up in the driveway, and then get right on the highway, the ATF does stay pretty cool....hovers around 100 degrees.
That's not a problem when the torque converter is locked up though, and as soon as it unlocks and I start driving in town, it's heats right up to 140ish. Bottom line: the transmission makes enough heat to warm up the fluid.
I just use a good ATF (Valvoline MaxLife) and enjoy knowing i can't get a milkshake unless I stop at Dairy Queen and buy one.
Last edited by quicksilvr; 01-19-2011 at 12:45 PM.
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Normal driving environment should be taken into account as well. Living in Texas, I'd rather have a separate transmission cooler for the 75% of the year that it's warm over the 25% that it's cold. My transmission only starts to feel sluggish when the whole truck is cold and it's less than 40-50 degrees outside. In that case, I just keep it in 2nd until my engine starts to warm up. TruCool has a bypass for that reason.
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Normal driving environment should be taken into account as well. Living in Texas, I'd rather have a separate transmission cooler for the 75% of the year that it's warm over the 25% that it's cold. My transmission only starts to feel sluggish when the whole truck is cold and it's less than 40-50 degrees outside. In that case, I just keep it in 2nd until my engine starts to warm up. TruCool has a bypass for that reason.
#18
True. However, I'm confident now that even a completely bypassed setup (external cooler only) still allows the fluid to reach proper temperature.
I'm bypassed, and I've been watching my temps with a ScanGauge II for the last 7 months. We've had enough cold weather (below 20 degrees F....it's currently below zero as I type this) at this point, I can confidently say my transmission warms up just fine. 85% of the time, it's warmed up to at least 110, and my coolant temp is still below 170. The other 15% of the time, namely when I let the truck warm up in the driveway, and then get right on the highway, the ATF does stay pretty cool....hovers around 100 degrees.
That's not a problem when the torque converter is locked up though, and as soon as it unlocks and I start driving in town, it's heats right up to 140ish. Bottom line: the transmission makes enough heat to warm up the fluid.
I just use a good ATF (Valvoline MaxLife) and enjoy knowing i can't get a milkshake unless I stop at Dairy Queen and buy one.
I'm bypassed, and I've been watching my temps with a ScanGauge II for the last 7 months. We've had enough cold weather (below 20 degrees F....it's currently below zero as I type this) at this point, I can confidently say my transmission warms up just fine. 85% of the time, it's warmed up to at least 110, and my coolant temp is still below 170. The other 15% of the time, namely when I let the truck warm up in the driveway, and then get right on the highway, the ATF does stay pretty cool....hovers around 100 degrees.
That's not a problem when the torque converter is locked up though, and as soon as it unlocks and I start driving in town, it's heats right up to 140ish. Bottom line: the transmission makes enough heat to warm up the fluid.
I just use a good ATF (Valvoline MaxLife) and enjoy knowing i can't get a milkshake unless I stop at Dairy Queen and buy one.
because I cannot find this info anywhere
thanks
#19
"""" cloudcap previously said:
FYI, I've had a ScanGauge II for a few months and recently puzzled out the XGauge codes for measuring automatic transmission fluid temperature. Here's the scoop:
TXD: 686AF101B4
RXF: 044105B40000
RXD: 2808
MTH: 00090005FFD8
I've verified that this works with my '02 4Runner and suspect that the codes would work with an FJCruiser as well (even though the FJ is a *much* less capable off-road vehicle....). Please let folks know if you try it and it works for you. I'm not a regular reader of this forum, but wanted to pass the info along as it seems to be of general interest.
Regards"""""
Last edited by SRT4runner; 01-20-2011 at 01:13 PM.
#20
I replaced my stock radiator with a Spectra radiator bought at Autozone (Lifetime warranty and it's good quality) and added a Tru-cool 4454 as well hooked up in series with the radiator. Sure the problem can still happen the way it's hooked up now, but with this setup I'm confident there is enough cooling for the trans in the hot summer months, and that the fluid will stay warm enough in sub zero temps. I monitor the temps with my scangauge II and the trans will average around 110*f when its 10*f outside, and in the hot summer it never goes over 200*f. This is within the ideal range of trans fluid temperature. I feel if I regularly change the coolant and replace the radiator every 5-7 years I should not have any issues with the milkshake (knock on wood).
Are there any documented cases of aftermarket radiators failing and causing the milkshake?
Are there any documented cases of aftermarket radiators failing and causing the milkshake?