Snow Chain Questions...
#1
Snow Chain Questions...
All you bad weather experts out there, I have a couple of questions for you.
I have a 4WD 4Runner. The situation is on road snow driving and snow chains. While chains for both is expensive for someone like me that might drive less than 10 days a year on snow (vacations only) it must be the best.
Do you put them on the front, the back or both and why?
I have a 4WD 4Runner. The situation is on road snow driving and snow chains. While chains for both is expensive for someone like me that might drive less than 10 days a year on snow (vacations only) it must be the best.
Do you put them on the front, the back or both and why?
#2
I like all 4 the best for max traction. If you only do two go with the back.(I think if you had them on the front only you would tend to fish tail) Costco has a great price for real chains--I have been up to my mirros with these on. I miss the snow! you may also want to check out Brigestone blizzaks--incredible in the snow and ice--you can stop fast. hope this helps.
#3
There are arguments that go both ways. Some people say put them on the front because that's what steers the truck, but others say put them on the back because when you drive downhill and hit the brakes you won't loose control. The argument there is if the chains are on the front, the front has more traction. If the front has more traction then it will want to swap ends with the rear.
In the end I don't think it matters that much, but then again I grew up in San Diego.
In the end I don't think it matters that much, but then again I grew up in San Diego.
#4
For very occasional driving, it's not worth the $$ to buy chains for all 4 wheels. One set will do just fine 75% of the time that you need chains (on road). Put them on the rear unless your rear diff. is locked/lockable. Most front diffs. are locked when engaged, giving equal power to each wheel. An unlocked rear will send all of the power to the wheel with the least traction. Having chains will give both wheels equal traction. A limited-slip rear diff. will help some, but ony to a point. One wheel on a very slick surface is essentially the same as having one wheel in the air.
With chains on only two wheels you should still follow the same safe driving practices that you would without chains. You will have better starting/stopping ability, but one end of the truck will still be free to slide around. Take it slow & anticipate the next move of everyone around you as well as your own.
With chains on only two wheels you should still follow the same safe driving practices that you would without chains. You will have better starting/stopping ability, but one end of the truck will still be free to slide around. Take it slow & anticipate the next move of everyone around you as well as your own.
#6
Originally posted by Robinhood150
Say what?!
Say what?!
#7
No, all stock toyotas have an open front diff (except for some LCs). The 1996-2000 have the elocker option and everything after that has the traction control. The only trucks in the US that have a front locker from the factory are the Rubicon, H1, Gwagon, older LCs, unimogs, etc.
The 4th gens have a torsen center diff with a push button locker (for the center). Otherwise, the front and rear are open. The japanese versions have the option for a rear torsen, but still no front locker or LSD.
On a standard, part time 4wd engaging the 4wd connects the front axle to the back axle. That is what is locked, not the differentials. I think you're thinking of the ADD system. ADD locks the passenger axle to the rest of the differential.
The 4th gens have a torsen center diff with a push button locker (for the center). Otherwise, the front and rear are open. The japanese versions have the option for a rear torsen, but still no front locker or LSD.
On a standard, part time 4wd engaging the 4wd connects the front axle to the back axle. That is what is locked, not the differentials. I think you're thinking of the ADD system. ADD locks the passenger axle to the rest of the differential.
Last edited by Robinhood150; 11-05-2003 at 11:42 AM.
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#8
Oh, and in regards to the original question, I think I'd put them in the back but I don't have any particular reason for that. Most of the time you don't need chains with a 4wd anyway, although the CHP can make you put them on.
#9
IMHO, the reality of the situation in CA is the road will be:
a) Totally open
b) Chains required or 4wd snow tires
c) Closed
While technically there is a "4wd snow tires + chains" state, CHP just closes the road first. If you are only concerned about highway type use, buy a cheap set of chains so you can show the CHP that you have them, and don't worry about it.
With that said, I have chains for all four!
a) Totally open
b) Chains required or 4wd snow tires
c) Closed
While technically there is a "4wd snow tires + chains" state, CHP just closes the road first. If you are only concerned about highway type use, buy a cheap set of chains so you can show the CHP that you have them, and don't worry about it.
With that said, I have chains for all four!
#10
I just got chains for my truck (not cheap for 33's) anyways, I've tried them in the front, and I can say that it makes a huge difference. the back end really slides around for me mainly because I have a locker in the rear. I plan on getting a set for the rear soon. I figure I'm going to hit some really bad passes on my way back to seattle so getting as much traction as possible is good.
#12
I go with chains in the rear too and you really only need 1 set of chains unless you plan to go where no man (and his 4runner) has gone before
Just remember too that 4 wheel drive does NOTHING to stop you any better than a honda civic in ice or snow. If its slick out and you hit the brakes, studs or chains are the only things that will do anything to slow you down
Just remember too that 4 wheel drive does NOTHING to stop you any better than a honda civic in ice or snow. If its slick out and you hit the brakes, studs or chains are the only things that will do anything to slow you down
#13
Physics shows that you want to keep traction in the rear, say you hit the breaks, your rear end is going to try to pass you, spinning you one way or the other. Putting more weight over your rear tires is always a good thing, but putting all your traction up front is like pushing a shoping cart from the front.
#14
Chains on the rear is usually my choice. The steering components on the front end are more likely to be damaged by the vibrations that chains create, while the rear end doesn't have those issues.
If it's bad enough that chains would be required for both ends, I don't want to be out on the road. It's noth worth my life.
If it's bad enough that chains would be required for both ends, I don't want to be out on the road. It's noth worth my life.
#15
I'm glad someone else asked this.... I was about to ask.
So having a rear locker and a light rear end.... I pretty much have to go with chains on all corners? Great....... so where can I get the best price on chains that will fit 33's?
So having a rear locker and a light rear end.... I pretty much have to go with chains on all corners? Great....... so where can I get the best price on chains that will fit 33's?
#16
Put them on the rear, or all four. Never on the front only. This is what the manufacture recomends and studies have shown to be true. I have witnessed 3 accidents caused by people putting chains on the front only. This was caused by the back ends of cars swinging around going down hills.
#19
Originally posted by SkyRat
Okay, there is pretty strong consensus to put chains on rear only if you only have one set.
What mode of 4WD would you all recommend?
4WD HI or 4WD Locked HI?
Okay, there is pretty strong consensus to put chains on rear only if you only have one set.
What mode of 4WD would you all recommend?
4WD HI or 4WD Locked HI?
#20
Since when do you need traction with steering? Steering only points the car, traction is needed on the power wheels. Now, when you have 4WD like all of us, it's a little hazy but having fishtailed enough I'd vote for chains on the rear.