So I did the deckplate mod and the elbow mod on my 99 4Runner yesterday. And while I was under the hood, I figured I'd give a look-see about the ISR mod. But it was getting late, and I didn't think I could find a place to fab a pipe in time. I got to thinking, what if I just sealed up the slit in the resonator and so effectively it's the same result as removing the whole piece, plus it keeps a more "factory" look. And the question became, how to seal up the slit inside the tube...

So my question is, would it be possible/safe to just tape up the slit? I put some electrical tape and then duct tape (stickier) to see if that would work - it certainly sounded great. But I'm not sure how safe that is. So before I go driving all around, I figured I'd see what you all thought of that? Any concerns? My obvious one is, what if the tape comes undone. Now the duct tape is really strong, but I'm wondering if big temperature changes might effect it?

Thoughts?

thanks,

Kurt

 

I'd be pretty weary about putting tape just before the throttle body. If it came undone and made it into a combustion chamber, that could spell disaster. I don't remember exactly what the intake looks like on a 3.4L, but the object of the ISR mod is to give air the fastest, most unrestricted path to the TB. Are you effectively doing that with the tape? My $.02. Good luck, Eric.

 

Eric's fears are well placed. The last thing you want to do is present a way for something to get sucked into the engine, the second-to-the-last thing you want to do is to present someTHING to get sucked into the engine.

I've seen people seal up the holes with duct tape, but frankly, it's asking for trouble, even the plumbing piece method can backfire on you. A couple of people here (myself included) have had a piece come loose and get sucked down the pipe. That's kindofa' bummer when you're driving along and things just kinda' stop. ...it would be a lot worse if it were a piece of duct tape that could make it into a cylinder.

Either get a pipe bent or do the plumbing end-cap method. Don't get swayed by the "quick and easy".

 

For under $100 you can get the Airraid.

 

airaid mit with a trueflow filter good to go get it from here http://www.burtmanindustries.com/

 

Well, you've all confirmed my fears. Tapes coming off. So the question is, what to do instead...

What's the "plumbing end-cap method?"

And what about PVC instead of metal?

thanks all,

K

 

YT's tech section kinda' has that covered:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f130/intake-silencer-removal-mod-3rd-gen-4runner-2000-a-75168/
(check the 2nd writeup from Bob, post #4)

Basically, you're removing all the boxes then plugging the resulting holes with "end caps" from the plumbing section of your local Lowes/Home Depot.


Works fine, I did a friend's using PVC. Two things though - 1) Use thick walled PVC, the heat in the engine bay can get pretty warm and will soften up thin walled stuff. 2) If you use a coupler to handle a bend, smooth out the ridges on the inside of the pipe. You don't want anything in there that will cause the air to start buffeting.

 

Wait, isn't the MIT essentially the same as the pipe ($6) that Bob mentions in his write-up?

 

Ahh... the Young One learns fast.

There is a TON of discussion on this forum and others about the Airaid products versus just heading to an exhaust shop for a piece of mandrel bent tubing.

The general consensus is that if you're a physics major, you'd be able to show a flow gain in the Airaid tube when compared to a piece of tubing. But what most of us care about here is if it will show up on a dyno. And that answer is basically "no", the difference is small enough that it's within the margin of error on a dyno, and as such can't be empirically measured.

The Airaid tube IS different than just a straight pipe (it's got an interesting bulge at supposedly "the right spot"), and of course its "diameter is optimized for your application". But umm... Unless we're comparing 1.5" exhaust tubing with an Airaid, it ain't gonna make any difference that you'll notice.

Now, there IS a difference going from a "plumbing cap" job to a tube. That's the route that I took and it's very clear.


The thing you need to keep in mind is that the ISR mod (any of them) is there to improve throttle response and smooth out acceleration. It will NOT get you horsepower. It just gives the air a more direct shot into the throttle body.

 

OOO! But the other piece of Elton's advice should NOT be poo-poo'd. That TrueFlow filter will be KEY to getting all the air you can from the front of the air box through the MAF and into th tube.

It's a VERY good product - the Amsoil air filter is highly regarded as well.

 

So ventures to Home Depot and PepBoys turned out subpar results. So I'm checking with my machine shop at school to see if they can fab the piece.

But I have another question, where to get the Tee and the 7/32" hose? I called Home Depot, and they don't have it. I don't think PepBoys will either.. suggestions?

thanks

Kurt,
btw, northfacer581's rig....droooool

 

What if you filled the crack with silicone or JB Weld?

 

Bump, I am really curious about the silicone!

 

Wait, a 99 3.4L runner shouldnt even have a need for an ISR pipe, only the 3.0 needs one like that. All you need is a piece of pvc pipe like an endcap or the kind of endcap for a wrench, and some hose bars.

THe guys with the 3.0L v6 need that kinda pipe b/c they dont have that little outlet on the actual intake tube. If you wanna make a whole new tube, then yea you wont find much at home depot.

You dont need a tee, and a 3/8 diameter fuel hose that pepboys sells will work.

As for the guy asking if silicone or jb weld would work, bad idea-it breaks down it its in your intake.

 

do it with a pipe... just go to a muffler shop and have them expand a piece out.

the silicone idea sounds promising, but i'd still be weary of sticking that in there

I did the tape thing too to try out the idea, I just made sure to use a long piece that wrapped outside the pipe so that there was no way of it coming off and getting sucked in the engine

 

for the '99, yes you just need a straight piece of pipe, but you also need a tube "T" and a little more tube of some sort, there is a line coming from bottom end of intake silencer that I tee'ed into another line on top of intake

 

That is how i did mine on my '99. It is a piece of... oh.... 2.5" ID exhaust pipe flared to fit.

Cost me nothing but a $5 tip.

 

yep, that looks just like mine

 

So you dont have these kinds pipes: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f130/intake-silencer-removal-mod-installation-96-97-3-4l-engines-74837/

Oh, my bad then...

 

yep, not on my '99 SR5 V6