So First off, I want to say THANK YOU to the guys at Shrockworks. They were the only shop out of 5 that I called that were willing to "rush" my order for the sliders. They had them fabbed and shipped to me in 2.5 weeks. Everywhere else told me 4-6 weeks. (edit: just checked my email and they actually had them fabbed and shipped to my door in 11 days!)

For everyone who has been looking for bolt on sliders. These seem to be the most basic mounting out there. you are required to drill 8 holes total. I have not installed these yet, they just got here today. They seem to be very good quality and they are HEAVY! I didn't believe it when Fedex sent me an email saying the package was 107 lbs. Definitely true though. I ordered mine bare metal to save time on my order. I plan on either using Hammerite paint or Herculiner. I haven't decided yet. Anyone have any suggestions?

I will post more pics once I install. It will be the middle of next week before I can install. We leave tonight to head up for a father's day camping/atv trip in Leadville.

 

Interesting there's only 2 mounting locations. Guess my demello's are just overkill. I'd get them powdercoated unless you like painting or don't mind rust.

 

Don't really have the $ for powdercoating. plus I actually do enjoy painting and I like the fact that once I end up on them, and break through the paint, I can touch them up myself. Don't like the fact that I can't do that with powdercoat.

 

I do have to admit, the only thing I didn't like about these sliders is their length. I wish they were a couple of inches longer. But what can you do when you are on a time crunch?

 

I wouldn't put those on my truck...

Look more like a bling bro-truck tube step than an actual functional slider. I can totally see those wiggling around if you tried to jack from them.

Do people really powdercoat sliders? Wow.

 

Let's put it this way, they attach in the EXACT same way as most of the aftermarket hitch receivers and bumpers. People tow 5000 lbs with those on a daily basis and those don't budge. the curb weight of a 1999 SR5 is 3725lbs. I really don't think these are going to budge.

Edit: I know the ones in this pic are on a 4th gen but same company, same materials.

 

what is the length on them? They look good.

Good investment to protect your body panels and underside. And using a local vendor, nice...

Mine are powdercoated. I think it was around $90, though that was 4 years ago now.

You can touch up powdercoating easy enough, mine are scraped up but you have to look really closely at them to see the touch ups. Some anti slip grit on the top side is a good idea-when they get wet( which admittedly is rare around here)-then they can get a bit slick for passengers to get in and out of the vehicle and slip on them.

Personally I would have them welded on- I think that was around $75 on my All Pro's. If you choose to bolt on then get appropriate Heavy Duty hardware or stainless steel or both if possible. If you're never going to remove them to move them to another vehicle then welded on is going to be a lot stronger.

If you are going to body lift then you might want to do that before you mount up the sliders. Just more food for thought.

Have a great camping weekend!

 

I really like those. I did the same thing with my Trail Gear sliders, painted with RustOleum hammer finish. Def post pics when you get 'em installed.

|dg

 

Thanks for the input guys. Just got back from leadville. The cargo/camping box worked great. (wish I had made it 2-3 inches shorter). I actually had to leave for camping twice, I was towing 2 atv's up with us but my parent's trailer was just too heavy. couldn't make it and had to turn around.

Ron, the length is 63" end to end. and for now I am going to bolt them on. they came with heavy duty hardware. I will see if I like the setup. if I don't I will weld them on after we run spring creek tail this next weekend. I am interested in how you touch up powdercoat tho?

Gonna try and get them put on asap. I will post more pics when I do

 

I wouldn't powdercoat them... waste of money in my own opinion. Spray paint works and looks great, and easy to touch up. Let me recommend the Krylon flat black or Duplicolor flat black. Use some self etching primer for a really good finish and durability.

 

Ok, I talked to a buddy of mine tonight. He told me about this paint called VHT Roll Bar and Chassis that he had painted his entire cage with. It is a self priming paint, and from what he has said, he's hit it many times while wrenching on his jeep and it hasn't chipped at all. Now I know that's not the full weight of a 3rd gen runner but sounds to be pretty tough. so I got a couple cans of that and a can of duplicolor rubberized undercoating, which I will tape off a stripe along the top and spray for added traction. I was going to just use grip tape but I would much rather have a few leg hairs pulled out than sandpaper gouges going up my leg when I get out. Hopefully painting tomorrow or tuesday. more pics to come then.

 

63 inches is I believe same length that All Pro Offroad builds.

You don't want them too long or they intrude on wheel travel. To touch up powder coating you just find a color very similar-we actually ended up using Testors black- it's paint for plastic models but it worked very well and blends in almost perfectly.

But what you have selected sounds/looks fine and looking forward to the final results.

 

Ok, I've had a lot going on since the campout, so I am just now getting the sliders painted. Halfway done. and here are some pics. Let me just say that it makes it 100x harder to do little projects like this when the only place I have to work on them is my balcony! More to come soon. The first is obviously pre paint, and the second is after 3 coats. Once that dries for a few hours, I will flip them over to paint and rubberize the top.

 

They should look something like this once installed

The length they are is perfect. They fit perfectly on my 99 with the sport package fender trim. Drilling those holes is a PITA - make sure you have sharp bits and a nice step bit. I thought about bolting mine on then decided to have them welded in place. I'm sure they'd be plenty strong bolted on, it was just easier to have them welded.

 

well, I got that message a day too late. lol. A buddy and I went to install them yesterday and were quite puzzled as to how in the hell to drill the holes on the upper frame?!?!?!? So after an hour or so of trying to figure it out. we just decided to say screw it and I will weld them on later.

 

You should be able to do it with a right angle drill. Welding is probably the better option, especially if you don't foresee the need to take them off.

 

So you paid for rush processing on fabrication of bolt on sliders, only to weld them on about 4 weeks later?

 

Make sure you weld on plates to the frame where you are going to weld them. they frame needs the bracing to hold up against jarring. Coming down hard on them can rip the frame where they are welded without them.

 

wow midget. what crawled up your a$$? are we kinda bitter at the world? I didn't have to pay any extra for the rush order. the kind people at Shrockworks did it all by themselves!the only reason I went with Shrockworks is because they offered to rush them out to me free of extra charge. The only reason that I made a big to do about them being bolt on is because I have seen several posts here where people were wanting completely bolt on sliders, since I had ordered them, I decided to start a thread that way it might be informative to those in the future. So to everyone out there who is interested in a productive thread on 3rd gen sliders, feel free to comment, question and have fun. To midget, (to put it in words so I don't get banned) GO FLY A KITE! and as far as the "big trip" that these sliders were for, unfortunately I had to miss due to a family emergency.

 

haha, don't get so upset about his comment/question. I also thought it was a bit humorous. But life is unpredictable, these things happen.