Lately my 5 spd has been reel hard to shift. Reverse is worst but even 4th to 5th is way harder thatn it should be.

My own little tests lead me to belive that even with the clutch pressed all the way down, there is still some contact in the clutch plates causing the gears to be in motion when I'm trying to shift.

Is there an easy way to adjust the clutch throw like below the dash?

This makes sense now, but a week or so ago I had to readjust the switch that is the safety for the clutch that makes sure it is clutched before the starter works.

Please help, and thanks a lot.

Lamm

 

URGENT HELP NEEDED!

in 4low with the clutch jamed to the floor and the brakes off the thing drived foreward. This sucks, a lot. Anybody experianced this? I need help, please :cry:

 

Could be there is too much free play in the clutch pedal, according to the manual there should be 5-15 mm of play in the pedal before resistance is felt. The master cylinder push rod is adjustable under the dash. These are the instructions from the FSM, sorry no diagrams. Specs for 1995 are for all 2nd gens.

ADJUSTMENTS
CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT
1) Measure clutch pedal height from highest point of clutch
pedal pad to floor panel. See Fig. 1. Ensure clutch pedal height is
within specification. See CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS table.
2) If clutch pedal height adjustment is required, loosen lock
nut and rotate bolt at clutch pedal height adjustment point until
correct clutch pedal height is obtained. See Fig. 1. Check clutch
pedal free play and push rod play. See
CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY & PUSH ROD PLAY.
CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS TABLE
Application In. (mm)
1995 .............................. 6.20 (157.5)
1996 ................... 6.89-7.28 (175.0-185.0)

CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY & PUSH ROD PLAY
1) To check clutch pedal free play, push clutch pedal
downward until beginning of clutch resistance is felt. See Fig. 2.
Note distance clutch pedal moves. This is clutch pedal free play.
2) Clutch pedal free play should be .20-.59" (5.0-15.0 mm).
If clutch pedal free play adjustment is required, loosen lock nut on
push rod at master cylinder. See Fig. 1. Rotate push rod to obtain
correct clutch pedal free play. Tighten lock nut.
3) To check push rod play, slightly push clutch pedal
downward until slight resistance is felt (point where push rod just
starts to operate clutch master cylinder). See Fig. 1. Push rod play
should be .039-.197" (1.00-5.00 mm) at top of clutch pedal. This
ensures a slight amount of clearance at push rod.
4) If push rod play adjustment is required, loosen lock nut
on push rod at master cylinder. Rotate push rod to obtain correct push
rod play. Tighten lock nut. Recheck clutch pedal free play and clutch
pedal height.

 

This is some awsome info Eric,

My pal (who is smarter than I) is on his way over, I feel this is the problem.

Thanks a lot!

Lamm

 

Sounds like either the clutch master or slave cylinder is going bad to me. Leaking slowly and getting air in system. Check for leaks or low resivour.

 

My mechanic suspects that there is a prob with the cylinenders too. I have no reason to belive that it is the clutch itself. Tonight I'm gonna bleed the system and check for leeks.

Eric The Reds info helped, but even with the rod at maximum adjustment it still sticks to the flywheel some.

Anybody have parts prices on the cylinder(s)? Just curious, money is tight lately with $1.99 gas and all. Thanks a lot and keep the ideas coming.

Lamm

 

Start with a good bleeding of the lines. Look hard for a fluid leak.

 

So, did you ever fix this problem??? Mine doesn't like to go into reverse very easily either, have to go to 1st or 2nd then back to reverse most of the time. Other gears aren't too bad, but definately more difficult than the other 6 standard tranny vehicles (Fords, Nissan, Mazda) that I have owned.

Mark

 

[QUOTE=4x4Lamm]Lately my 5 spd has been reel hard to shift. Reverse is worst but even 4th to 5th is way harder thatn it should be.

My own little tests lead me to belive that even with the clutch pressed all the way down, there is still some contact in the clutch plates causing the gears to be in motion when I'm trying to shift.

Is there an easy way to adjust the clutch throw like below the dash?

This makes sense now, but a week or so ago I had to readjust the switch that is the safety for the clutch that makes sure it is clutched before the starter works.

Please help, and thanks


Had the same problem with my 94 5-speed before and after putting a new clutch in . pulled my hair out for a while trying diffferent things. finally gave up and put in a different weight oil in transmission. I have had 10-30 Mobil-1 in there for 15000 miles and it solved the problem and is dead quiet. This was only my fix to my problem hope that it may help yours. !

 

I seem to be having the same problem, and it has gotten really bad. I am not driving my truck right now, because even when the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor it is nearly impossible to get it into gear.
The clutch is not disengaging...

So in reading this and a few other related posts I guess the starting point would be bleeding. I hope that will fix it without the need for expensive replacements.

One problem: I don't know how to do it. Is there anybody that can help me out with how to bleed the system?

 

I had a problem similar to this. I'd have to push the clutch all the way to the floor, and even then it would barley go into gear.

It was the Master Cylinder. This seems to be common among Toyotas. My friend's toy had the same problem.

 

just replaced my master cyl and hoses - it fixed this.

 

Ok, thanks... I've been talking to my roommate about this and he seems to think its the cylinder too. Would replacing the master cylinder be something I can do myself with somewhat limited mechanical experience, or would I be better off to take it to a mechanic?

Thanks for the help with your related problems.

 

it cost me $130 for parts and labor.