seized diff plug
#1
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seized diff plug
anybody know the best way to remove a seized diff fill plug? the paper thin surface of the nut on my front diff is stripped(damn you, previous owner) and it doesn't want to come out, no matter what i try to do
isn't there some kind of kit that drills a hole and is able to extract these kinds of things?
isn't there some kind of kit that drills a hole and is able to extract these kinds of things?
#3
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i went to the store and got some pb blaster. i'm gonna try soaking it in that stuff for a few days. if i cant get it out then, things might have to get drastic(blowtorch, impact wrench, hammer drill etc)
#5
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Try using a hammer and chisel to back the plug off. That's how I got the one on my dad's Toy off. You might want to think about upgrading to the low profile Camry drain plugs which use an Allen wrench to tighten/loosen 'em once you get yours off. You're less likely to strip and over tighten these plugs.
#6
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I wouldn't try the Dremel method mentioned above. If you really buggered it up with that you would really be in trouble!
They do make kits for extracting dorked up bolts, they are usually called "EZ-Out"s. You drill a hole, then insert what is basically a reverse threaded bolt and tighten and screw it into the hole, which removes the plug.
Have tried biting into the remaining head with a pipe wrench? A useful tool, the more pressure you use, the tighter it grips!
They do make kits for extracting dorked up bolts, they are usually called "EZ-Out"s. You drill a hole, then insert what is basically a reverse threaded bolt and tighten and screw it into the hole, which removes the plug.
Have tried biting into the remaining head with a pipe wrench? A useful tool, the more pressure you use, the tighter it grips!
#7
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i'll have to try that pipe wrench method. i'm not concerned about recovering the plug one bit, since i have 3 brand new ones from the factory that i found in under the seat still in their plastic bags. i'll definitely get those low profile plugs for the drain holes eventually, though
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#8
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Definately hit it with some PB blaster and let it sit over night.
Then go after it with some vice grips and a hammer if necessary.
If it still won't budge use a torch to heat and cool it several times.
Should be enough to losen it but some are quite difficult.
Then go after it with some vice grips and a hammer if necessary.
If it still won't budge use a torch to heat and cool it several times.
Should be enough to losen it but some are quite difficult.
#9
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I'd think a propane torch would be good enough for heating it up, that and a BFH with vise grips, and you'll get it off. It's us against them, and we always win...
#11
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Originally posted by kyle_22r
i went to the store and got some pb blaster. i'm gonna try soaking it in that stuff for a few days. if i cant get it out then, things might have to get drastic(blowtorch, impact wrench, hammer drill etc)
i went to the store and got some pb blaster. i'm gonna try soaking it in that stuff for a few days. if i cant get it out then, things might have to get drastic(blowtorch, impact wrench, hammer drill etc)
I then had the bright idea that I could have just welded a 1 foot x 1" wide x 1/4" bar to it and then I probably could have broken it loose that way. Problem with that is if it broke loose, then you gotta cut the bar off so you can rotate it.
anyway, my suggestion would be weld a bar to it if you have access to a welder or drill and tap a hole like I did and just wait until you pull the 3rd for maintenance.
good luck.
Originally posted by kyle_22r
isn't there some kind of kit that drills a hole and is able to extract these kinds of things?
isn't there some kind of kit that drills a hole and is able to extract these kinds of things?
Last edited by keisur; 11-23-2003 at 07:31 PM.
#13
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might have to drive it down into the shop tomorrow and try welding someting to it tomorrow. i have access to a welder at school(being that i take welding full-time) and i'm sure that could work if i don't have luck with the pipe wrench
#15
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Welding a nut to it should work fine, always has for me. If you get real desperate you could hit it with a .50 cal, the resulting hole should be around the right size and all you'll need to do is put some threads in it...
#16
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well, looks like i'm gonna do some welding tomorrow
pipe wrench + pb blaster didn't work. that thing is on there GOOD. i'll have to go find myself about a 16 or 18mm nut and weld it on there, and try to bust it loose
i take it i should drain what's in the diff before giving this a shot, right? i'd assume it's safe to drive with no fluid in front diff as long as the hubs are unlocked
pipe wrench + pb blaster didn't work. that thing is on there GOOD. i'll have to go find myself about a 16 or 18mm nut and weld it on there, and try to bust it loose
i take it i should drain what's in the diff before giving this a shot, right? i'd assume it's safe to drive with no fluid in front diff as long as the hubs are unlocked
#17
Originally posted by kyle_22r
well, looks like i'm gonna do some welding tomorrow
pipe wrench + pb blaster didn't work. that thing is on there GOOD. i'll have to go find myself about a 16 or 18mm nut and weld it on there, and try to bust it loose
i take it i should drain what's in the diff before giving this a shot, right? i'd assume it's safe to drive with no fluid in front diff as long as the hubs are unlocked
well, looks like i'm gonna do some welding tomorrow
pipe wrench + pb blaster didn't work. that thing is on there GOOD. i'll have to go find myself about a 16 or 18mm nut and weld it on there, and try to bust it loose
i take it i should drain what's in the diff before giving this a shot, right? i'd assume it's safe to drive with no fluid in front diff as long as the hubs are unlocked
#18
Contributing Member
Originally posted by jjdeneen
357 magnum
9mm
38 special
if those dont work you can try....
30-06
308
30-30
357 magnum
9mm
38 special
if those dont work you can try....
30-06
308
30-30
Go with the magnum!
#19
Contributing Member
Well I am just guessing here, but I would think you could tack weld a nut onto the plug without draining the fluid. Just go slow and allow cooling time between the tacks. In fact it might be more dangerous to have the oil drained because there would be more air and fumes in the diff to explode, plus the oil will act like a heat sink. Either way there is danger.
#20
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by Glenn
Oh, I suppose you could drive without any gear lube in the front diff with the hubs unlocked, but what if you STILL can't get it off? You'd really have a hard time filling it from the drain hole.
Oh, I suppose you could drive without any gear lube in the front diff with the hubs unlocked, but what if you STILL can't get it off? You'd really have a hard time filling it from the drain hole.
i was planning on going wheeling yesterday, and wanted to make sure i had gear lube in the diff(it pisses out past the seals since they're pretty much shot), and that's where the problem started
mark my words, it's GONNA work