Thanx...

I used a drill attachment - "Rapid Strip" to take off most of the grime. Then I used a wire brush on the stuff it missed. After that I cleaned it. Then spayed it (3 coats) high temp engine paint.

 

If you want to get these guys (and me) off your back, sell that "spare" motor and get yourself the SMT6 and the Walbro Fuel Pump ($465). The "hack job" on the ECU is up to the installer; it can be a clean, trouble-free install. Besides, guys like Mark, Johnny, and myself have gone through the blood, sweat and tears of installing the SMT succesfully. We are just itching to walk someone else through the process without any issues.

 

Actually, that's quite easy to counter: If there no problems, please explain why, after Gadget pointed out the issues, that TRD decided to create the 7th injector kit? Add to that the decision, based on problems, for TRD to discontinue the S/C's?

No one is attacking you, but they are trying to save your engine.

 

I am not supercharged any more because I blew a hole in the piston. I have a new motor now, and can't afford the URD kit, so no supercharger for me. Let me tell you that $1200 is cheap insurance when compared to a new motor. I wish I had URD from day one. Plus there seems to be some positive power gains also. Just my 2 cents.

 

That is good to hear Christian, I'll be taking you up on that soon.

 

Was your motor "pinging" a lot? How many miles b4 it blew? More details....

Thanx
Peter

 

TRD is discontinuing the S/C's for the 3.4. I did not know that. When did this come out?

 

Remember... you can have pre-detonation ("ping") without being able to hear it. If you can't hear it, you won't know it's there unless you keep an eye on EGT, or other less obvious symptoms like power loss on a hill or sagging through the power band or pulling the plugs on a regular basis to check for high temp erosion.

 

Is there an easy way to watch EGT? I have not noticed any power losss or sagging through the power band. It runs very smooth and has even power throughout. I will pull the plugs at the next oil change and see what they look like. Do you have any pics of "high temp erosion" on a plug??

I got it to ping for 2 sec, but only under this condition: up hill on hwy @ 60mph (low rev in OD), by gradually adding gas sending SCr into boost 4-5psi till it dropped out of OD. Now, I'm running with the ECT on... this drops it out of OD sooner and has eliminated the issue (thus far). Otherwise, I have towed my brother's truck with it... pulled hills... and it has not made any "ping" noise. The only other thing I've noticed was a drop in my MPG... from 18 to ~16. I think it is mostly due to driving faster (overall), I'll see what happens next tank. It has over 1000 miles with the SCr now... the CEL has not come on once.

 

Nope, you're gonna have to drill a hole in the exhaust manifold and run an EGT gauge.


Sure...

Google popped this up pretty quick... http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark2.asp


You can have predetonation without any noise.


And it may not... The lean-out condition happens at WOT, or in general when the ECU goes into open loop. So depending on you drive, the ECU may not pick up on it. It's well documented that a S/C 3.4L engine will be running lean on a standard install.

 

Hey guys----Montypower seems pretty set on not adding fuel mods. He probably has no idea what his AFRs are or whether has detonation or not but that's his deal. You have all been gracious in providing advice, warnings, and advantages of fuel mods. His truck----his money. Good luck Monty.

 

I concur... I'm pretty done with this thread.

Good luck Peter!

 

I appreciate your concern and advice guys. It is likely that I will do fuel mods at some point in the future. For now, I don't have time to mess with them. Hopefully, the motor will hold up... Once I get another daily driver I will seriously look into it.

I will be listening for any "pinging"... and will pull my plugs at the oil changes... Any other suggestions of things to watch for until the fuel system is upgraded?

I really like the 7th injector setup you have TRDOLMAN.

 

How about an Air / Fuel Ratio gauge.
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugesearch.aspx

 

It won't show a lot unless you've trained your eye on what to look for. An A/FR meter across a stock O2 snesor won't really show you the closed loop A/FR, it'll be too busy tracking the bouncing that the O2 sensor reports back to the ECU. But, if it can respond fast enough, it WILL show the A/FR at WOT (or an open loop condition in general).

A valid A/FR can only really be seen with a wideband O2 sensor... About $300 including meter and such. Add some $$$ for a shop to install the addition bung in the exhaust path.

That said, I do run an A/FR meter on my truck which is tied into the stock O2 sensor. The meter has circuitry to smooth out the swings, but you still have to "learn" how it works in order to not freak out when it shows 16:1. I also have an Innovate Motorsports wideband which I've run along side of the other meter so that I know what's really going on.

 

No offense Mt. Goat, but that gauge is pretty useless. For one thing they normally run off a regular O2 sensor. Mark can run one because he has a 96 and does have a regular O2 sensor. Montypower has an air/fuel sensor since he has a 99 model so it won't work (without other electronics being added to get a "so-so" reading). A wideband O2 sensor like the LM1 like Mark said will give him an accurate measurement. This tool is great (I have one as well) but the cost is up there.

One suggestion might be to go to a dyno shop. A run on the dyno won't cost that much and will show, using their wideband, what the AFRs are at the different rpms in open loop/WOT. If the AFRs are above the 12 range in open loop----my advice is to pretty much keep your foot out of it until he adds more fuel. The wideband at the dyno shop won't be completely correct because the reading will be at the end of the tailpipe after the cats. An accurate reading can only be taken before the cats but it will be close enough to give him and idea of what's actually going on. If the dyno shop tech knows what he is doing, he will stop the run if the AFRs are dangerously lean to prevent damage to the engine. Just a thought for some "cheap" answers.

Montypower, I like my 7th injector setup and it performs well for me as my dyno numbers suggest. It is a viable option for you but there are "secrets" to make it operate properly. If you decide on that option, I can help you with what I have learned.

 

I have a S/C and am at a high altitude (Denver). When i took my 4r to Seattle, i had the ping. However, when I got back into the mountains, the engine ran great again. How important would it be to get something like the 7th injector kit even though I am at this high of altitude?

 

As long as you keep it at the high altitude, you should be OK. It still would be a good idea to know what your AFRs are though just to be safe. Running a blower on a truck at the higher elevations is like running a stock truck at sea level. In fact your power might be close to the same as a stocker at sea level. The air is less dense and your actual boost is lower so the need for extra fuel is much less as long as you keep your stock pulley on.

 

You could connect a computer to your OBDII port which will read your 1st o2 sensor values and then use lambda to see how close you are to perfect afr. Just an idea.

 

Cool, now on to other mods

Got any links for lambda? I have autotap, which may display on Toyota... not sure since it is mainly for american cars.. Gonna have to look that up.