Rock Sliders Installed with PICS!
#1
Rock Sliders Installed with PICS!
Ok, I just wanted to let everyone know what I decided to do for my sliders today. I'm using 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1/4" square tubing throughout, and here's the measurements of each piece for those that would like to do it yourself:
1) Outer Slider: 69 1/2" (Quantity 2)
2) Inner Slider under pinch weld: 67 1/2" (Quantity 2)
3) Inner Frame Supports: 6 1/8" (Quantity 6)
4) Outer Tube Supports: 5 1/8" (Quantity 8)
5) Frame Plates: 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 1/4" (Quantity 6)
My 4runner is a 1997 limited, and with the above dimensions, the sliders sit with the inner slider directly centered under the pinch weld, and the outer slider sits perfectly flush with the outermost part of my tires, which is just slightly wider than the limited's fender flares.
If you add it all up, you need 30 ft of tubing, plus the 1/4" flat plate. I had a shop make the cuts for me, which cost $25, so the total cost for materials with tax was only $137.79. The welder charged me $110 to weld the sliders together and weld it to my frame. So, basically the sliders cost me $268.79 total including paint. Boy do I wish I could weld as good as he does, because I could have saved $120. Oh well! The total weight of the sliders is roughly 130 lbs.
I'm very happy with the initial strength, and I can't wait to thrash them out on the trail. Last weekend I hit my rocker panel, but luckily it didn't do any visible damage, so I decided that since I haven't hit my rear bumper since I cut it all up I was going to finish the sliders first.
Here's the link: http://www.toyota-4runners.com/rock-sliders.html
Chris
P.S. On another note, today when I was up under the truck, I noticed that I have dome some pretty good damage to my undercarriage in between and including both cross members, including the transfer case skid and the balancer is totally screwed. So, maybe, skids may be my next adventure instead of the rear bumper. I've got to fix the broken parts first, though.
1) Outer Slider: 69 1/2" (Quantity 2)
2) Inner Slider under pinch weld: 67 1/2" (Quantity 2)
3) Inner Frame Supports: 6 1/8" (Quantity 6)
4) Outer Tube Supports: 5 1/8" (Quantity 8)
5) Frame Plates: 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 1/4" (Quantity 6)
My 4runner is a 1997 limited, and with the above dimensions, the sliders sit with the inner slider directly centered under the pinch weld, and the outer slider sits perfectly flush with the outermost part of my tires, which is just slightly wider than the limited's fender flares.
If you add it all up, you need 30 ft of tubing, plus the 1/4" flat plate. I had a shop make the cuts for me, which cost $25, so the total cost for materials with tax was only $137.79. The welder charged me $110 to weld the sliders together and weld it to my frame. So, basically the sliders cost me $268.79 total including paint. Boy do I wish I could weld as good as he does, because I could have saved $120. Oh well! The total weight of the sliders is roughly 130 lbs.
I'm very happy with the initial strength, and I can't wait to thrash them out on the trail. Last weekend I hit my rocker panel, but luckily it didn't do any visible damage, so I decided that since I haven't hit my rear bumper since I cut it all up I was going to finish the sliders first.
Here's the link: http://www.toyota-4runners.com/rock-sliders.html
Chris
P.S. On another note, today when I was up under the truck, I noticed that I have dome some pretty good damage to my undercarriage in between and including both cross members, including the transfer case skid and the balancer is totally screwed. So, maybe, skids may be my next adventure instead of the rear bumper. I've got to fix the broken parts first, though.
Last edited by ravencr; 10-26-2003 at 11:58 AM.
#4
Definitely need pics. Sounds like you're pretty close to what I think is what I want. The length sounds long enough to actually extend under the flares themselves - right? I've got a 2000 Limited and have been considering some sliders so I'm always interested in how various types look with the limited flares.
#6
Yes, they go right under the limited's fender flares. I designed them so they were easy to cut and assemble. No angle cuts, no special mounting, etc. I also chose to go with the heavier 1 1/2" 1/4" tubing instead of running 2" 1/8" or 3/16" tubing for added wall thickness and still maintain the same strength as a 2" 3/16" tube. I'll have some pics for everyone tomorrow morning.
Chris
Chris
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#8
Originally posted by FirstToy
Hey mang, dats da ol' bait n' switch with the title of the thread, mang.
Hey mang, dats da ol' bait n' switch with the title of the thread, mang.
I got a Snake mang!
haha
I wanna see the pics too! I think I am gonna try to fab up my own set o' sliders too with the help of a buddy, and Purdue's MET labs! free welding! woohoo!
#9
Aw man!
I saw the new post, I clicked it with anticipation, read the thread posts and no PICS! Rats! I wanted to see what they looked like to steal, borrow, any ideas that I might like! I guess I'll have to wait until tomorrow...I'm still interested to see what angle you used between the main support and the outer rails.
Sounds good though!
Brian
Sounds good though!
Brian
#14
Here's the pics of the sliders!
Here's the link to the pics: http://www.toyota-4runners.com/rock-sliders.html
Sorry for the delay on these!
Chris
P.S. I'll be writing more about them on that page soon, but I wanted to get the pictures out first.
Sorry for the delay on these!
Chris
P.S. I'll be writing more about them on that page soon, but I wanted to get the pictures out first.
#16
Actually, as a step they don't really help much for getting in and out, because they aren't much lower than the opening in the door. But, as far as getting on it and using it for leverage while off-roading or putting stuff on the rack it will work great! It's actually more of a pain getting in and out of the truck with them on, because your legs rub against them. But, I didn't build them for looks or a step, but strictly rock sliders to bounce off rocks when needed.
Chris
Chris
#17
90 degrees
Originally posted by ravencr
As I've said before, no angles were cut!
Chris
As I've said before, no angles were cut!
Chris
Any reason you ran them straight out instead of angling up the outer bar like most are done? Just curious...
Brian
#18
The reason is simple. The limited's fender flares would not have been protected if I angled them up. The outer tube would have to have been 6-8 inches shorter leaving the fender flares totally exposed to the rocks when the rock reaches the end of the slider. Plus I don't like the look of the ones that angle up for some reason. But, the main concern to me was to have maximum protection of the rocker panels in addition to the lower portions of the fender flares, which I've hit numerous times.
The way the sliders are designed provides that protection. Some might say it looks stupid on the ends with the 1" lips, but I don't really care about the looks all that much. The reason the inner tube is 2" shorter than the outer tube is due to possible rubbing on the tires, which is what caused the 1" lip on each end of the outer tube.
I've actually decided that I'm going to paint them the same color as my fender flares, which will help to blend them in real well.
Chris
P.S. These are were designed with 98% function/2% looks in mind, so please keep that in mind! I know a lot of folks like the rounded tubing at the ends, etc., but if they think about what will happen when the rock gets to the end of the tubing, they might reconsider that design, unless they love to smack their fenderwells or flares. At least that's my opinion!
The way the sliders are designed provides that protection. Some might say it looks stupid on the ends with the 1" lips, but I don't really care about the looks all that much. The reason the inner tube is 2" shorter than the outer tube is due to possible rubbing on the tires, which is what caused the 1" lip on each end of the outer tube.
I've actually decided that I'm going to paint them the same color as my fender flares, which will help to blend them in real well.
Chris
P.S. These are were designed with 98% function/2% looks in mind, so please keep that in mind! I know a lot of folks like the rounded tubing at the ends, etc., but if they think about what will happen when the rock gets to the end of the tubing, they might reconsider that design, unless they love to smack their fenderwells or flares. At least that's my opinion!
#19
Well thought out
Originally posted by ravencr
The reason is simple. The limited's fender flares would not have been protected if I angled them up. The outer tube would have to have been 6-8 inches shorter leaving the fender flares totally exposed to the rocks when the rock reaches the end of the slider. Plus I don't like the look of the ones that angle up for some reason. But, the main concern to me was to have maximum protection of the rocker panels in addition to the lower portions of the fender flares, which I've hit numerous times.
The way the sliders are designed provides that protection. Some might say it looks stupid on the ends with the 1" lips, but I don't really care about the looks all that much. The reason the inner tube is 2" shorter than the outer tube is due to possible rubbing on the tires, which is what caused the 1" lip on each end of the outer tube.
I've actually decided that I'm going to paint them the same color as my fender flares, which will help to blend them in real well.
Chris
P.S. These are were designed with 98% function/2% looks in mind, so please keep that in mind! I know a lot of folks like the rounded tubing at the ends, etc., but if they think about what will happen when the rock gets to the end of the tubing, they might reconsider that design, unless they love to smack their fenderwells or flares. At least that's my opinion!
The reason is simple. The limited's fender flares would not have been protected if I angled them up. The outer tube would have to have been 6-8 inches shorter leaving the fender flares totally exposed to the rocks when the rock reaches the end of the slider. Plus I don't like the look of the ones that angle up for some reason. But, the main concern to me was to have maximum protection of the rocker panels in addition to the lower portions of the fender flares, which I've hit numerous times.
The way the sliders are designed provides that protection. Some might say it looks stupid on the ends with the 1" lips, but I don't really care about the looks all that much. The reason the inner tube is 2" shorter than the outer tube is due to possible rubbing on the tires, which is what caused the 1" lip on each end of the outer tube.
I've actually decided that I'm going to paint them the same color as my fender flares, which will help to blend them in real well.
Chris
P.S. These are were designed with 98% function/2% looks in mind, so please keep that in mind! I know a lot of folks like the rounded tubing at the ends, etc., but if they think about what will happen when the rock gets to the end of the tubing, they might reconsider that design, unless they love to smack their fenderwells or flares. At least that's my opinion!
Sounds like you thought it all out. I looked at the pics and you definitely have the fender flares protected. I won't have that problem here since I took mine off, but I am looking at adding some bushwhackers after the SAW/OME lift, so that is something to consider. Thanks for the ideas and they do look good IMO!
Brian