Hey all...a neighbor buddy and I are going to attempt to replace the rear shocks on my '97, 4x4, 4runner. He has all the tools, shop, etc. He said it would be "no big deal, but maybe just to check and see if there are any common problems, mistakes, etc. that others have experienced. Replacing OEM with OEM. Appreciate any advice, estimated time, tools needd, etc... Thanks!
MDB

-bound to cover just a little more ground...

 

Is this a Taco or 4Runner? And why not get better shocks than OEM?

 

If it is a 4Runner, Just take your time because the top nuts are a real pain to get at. Save yourself some time by dropping your spare tire to give you more room. If you just turn the nut you will notice that it will just keep spinning. If it isn't too rusted sometimes you can simply hold the top bell of the shock but if it is stuborn like mine was and you have the new shocks on hand a saws-all makes really quick work of cutting it off. Just be carefull not to cut anything else like a fuel line. Look at your new shocks to see what I am probably not doing a very good job at explaining.

 

sorry guys, duh...4runner SR5

Want to keep that factory ride...most of the research I've done here shows the OEM is still one of the best options for a DD.

 

I have the OME 86's and it is my daily driver and my wheelin rig. They are not bad shocks for the money and a lot of us are running them. It all depends on how you use your Runner. If I was doing more extreme off roading I would be running something like Bilstein 5100's or Fox but these do fine.

 

just to clarify, I'l be replacing with stock Toyota shocks...

 

BTW~ has anyone done a writeup on this? Can't find one?

 

Brian might have something on his site...

It's really easy. To remove, simply get a wrench on the top nut (I think it's a 12mm). Then, start to spin the shock body - yes the shock body - until the nut is loose. The wrench will brace itself so don't worry about that. Now, remove the lower nut (14mm I think) with the shock in an extended position. Bang it off with a rubber mallet. Replace in the same manner, only this time have someone or something hold the shock body while you tighten the top nut. Careful, don't damage it!

Took me about 30 minutes to do my buddy's runner who does not have a 1" BL like me. It's cake.

 

it's not difficult.. but depending on how much rust you have, it might really put up a fight. mine was rusted like hell and i soaked it over night with pb blaster. still, it took two people using two hands on each tool to undo the nut on top.

for taking the old shock off, if it puts up a fight for you like it did for me, use a pipe or a chain wrench around the shock body itself (it doesnt matter if you damage it because you're replacing it). Have someone hold that tight with two hands, and then another person to use two hands on a box end wrench or a ratchet. If it still doesnt work, get a longer ratchet.

for more space to work, remove your spare (like someoen said before me) and if necessary, remove your rear tires.

 

I want to say it was very difficult and I don't have any rust. Very similar to this post, I had to hold the shock with a clamp while my buddy tried to loosen the nut on top. The difficult part is that there is very little room up top to get to the nut and the tower that the shock goes into gets in the way. I posted a similar question a month ago and some even sawed off the old shock. I know others here are very versed in this type of thing but if you haven't done it and you're in an area where there tends to be rust in the undercarriage, it may be difficult but not impossible.

 

Thanks for the great responses guys. Since I live in coloroful CO, hopefully rust won't be a problem. Sounds like two sets of hands are a must and a little "engineering" may be in order. Wish me luck...

Upon closer inspection, it appears the fronts are orginal too. However they aren't leaking and still ride good @ 130k (not too shabby). Might as well replace those too though, huh?!?! Toys are so addictive. Soooo.........what about the fronts? Same story, or a whole new ballgame?

 

The fronts are much more difficult and involved (you are dealing with a coil spring). Don't mess around with those. Make sure a pro is around or doing it.

 

Maybe I'll just wait another few months and pay to have them all done at once then. Labor on both of the rears was only like $70. Might be worth the extra$$$ to avoid the headache...drop it off, pick it up, enjoy...

 

I just stuck a wrench up in the area where the nut nut was and twisted the shock body with one of those rubber grip things... Did it all by myself... Of course, the wrench ended up spinning until it hit something that stopped it from spinning so it was pretty easy to get off... Hardest part I would say is getting the rubber grip to hold firmly.

 

Don't let anyone tell you different - a reputable shop should only charge you one hour worth of labour to do all 4 shocks. Maybe an 1 1/4 hours if you have to deal with coils, etc. But no more.

 

For $70, it's worth it to have someone else deal with it. Although our fault, my buddy scraped up one of his knuckles really good trying to get on of the original shocks out. If you're going to do front and rear, you should probably do them at the same time because you will need to align the truck after you do the work. It's better to do it once.

 

Sorry, you don't need to align a vehicle after doing shocks do you? I was told by an alignment/suspension shop that new shocks don't require an alignmen. Or is this only on coil sprung front suspensions? (Mine is torsion bar IFS/Leaf sprung solid rear axle obviously).

 

I could be wrong but I was told that everytime you mess with the suspension and anytime you get new tires, it's best to do an alignment. The 3rd gens definitely have a coil/shock front suspension.

When I did my Revtek lift and swapped out shocks, I know that my camber was off just by sight...

 

Dang, I just had the alignment done with my new tires last week. I pased on the upgrade to buy lifetime alignent for about $40 more. CAn anyone clarify this for me? Do I need another if I go ahead and do the fronts? Eve though it was just done?

 

Ummm yes, addictive indeed. I've already sunk $5,000 into my rig and I only paid $1800 for it. Although I wouldn't get more than $2500 for it, I've learned a lot about tinkering with it. I expect to get all my money back after driving it for another 10 years.

Troy