Hello everyone,

So the ECU in my 2001 4runner got fried and I need to replace it. Where exactly is it located and does anyone have any tips that I should know about?

Thanks in advance,

Ben

 

It's under the passenger side kick panel and it's easy to replace, but what makes you think it's fried?

 

Thanks MTL. I took it to the stealership yesterday and they said it's dead. I think my friend crossed the jumper cables when she was giving me a jump the other day which subsequently fried the Alternator Fuse and ECU.

From what I've read the ECU will calibrate itself right?

 

Actually on an 01 it's above the glove box. Remove the glove box, the heater duct and the metal brace below the air bag and you'll see it. I don't know if it'll come out with the airbag in the way though. If you're replacing it yourself disconnect the battery first.

 

Oh I'll be sure to disconnect the battery first.. Hopefully I can get it out without having to disturb the airbag too much.

 

Good call, I forgot they moved it in later models.

Here's a pic......

 

Cool, thanks for the pic MTL.

The dealer also stated that the ETCS may be bad too. Is it possible that the ETCS is sending an error code only because the ECU is bad or will I for sure have to replace both?

 

I think the dealer is playing parts replacement because they have tried everything in the FSM diagnostic tree and narrowed it down to that (at least I hope thay have). There's not much anyone on here could say beyond that without know alot more detail about your situation (ie symptoms) and what the dealer has tested so far.

 

as far as i know, correct me if im wrong anyone, that if your truck starts and throws codes, then the ecu is fine.

 

Well, it tries to start but won't fire up. I've got a replacement ecu coming in tomorrow so we'll see if that fixes it.

 

Did this happen all of a sudden or did it get progressively worse (ie hard to start, then finally died one day)?

 

All at once. Probably happened when my friend got the jumper cables crossed while I was in the drivers seat trying to start it. She was just trying to be helpful.

*Note to self* Keep overly helpful girls away from my rig.. =/

 

Overly helpful girls can be useful and even fun, but i guess that depends on what there helping with. . The note should be next time hook it up yourself and let the girl look pretty and thank her later

 

I'm curious where you're getting your replacement. I went to the stealership when I figured I had a bad one...they wanted $1100! I ended up getting one online for $300, flashed with the newest firmware available. Works great now. FYI the cpu can be bad and still run, I ran on 5 cylinders until I could get my new one swapped in.

 

really? ok, thanks for correcting me. stealership wanted 1700 for my ecu when i thought it went bad a year ago, i got one from a private party for 60 bucks, turns out it was a cable. so somewhere in san diego i have a spare ecu layin around... lol. never go to toyota of escondido in san diego... lol

 

Yeah bro, ECU's have to be the bane of all things to go wrong...I think I just lucked out that it would run hehe...as per what the dealer said as well. I cringed when I hooked up my scantool and had *tons* of CELs, even though the dummy light never lit up...go figure.

 

Yeah, that does sound like you roasted the ECU somehow.
It's either that or a burnt/damaged ground somewhere (since low ECU voltage will cause similar problems).

 

I think my local dealer quoted me a price of somewhere around $900 for a new one from them. I found a replacement thru a local import parts salvage yard for $200. Comes with a 90 day warranty too.

 

Did you get a chance to replace it yet?

If not, might wanna make sure that the ECUs match...an auto trans ECU won't work right with a manual, and if you have a later model 3rd gen with the security "chip" inside your keys you will have to go to the dealer to reprogram it...it won't run until you get that done. Atleast that's what I've been told...

 

Well, I swapped out the old ECU with the new one this morning but it's still doing the same thing. I don't have the security chip on my ECU so it shouldn't have to be reprogrammed. Looks like I'm going to have to take it back to the dealership and have them fix it.