kyle_22r

i have ARP studs on my engine. one of the water jackets in the head was sort of corroded and was about 3mm from the fire ring, a ROCK gasket(same as engnbldr's) and ARP head studs should put a stop to that, as well as using good cooland and distilled water.

the real nice thing about the studs is that it's easier to align the head and head gasket, as well as the fact that you can put 30lbs more torque on them than factory head bolts, which in turn gives less of a chance for the head gasket to fail. i splurged and also bought ARP main studs.

Wildcat_4R

The ARP head studs do sound like a good idea. If I'm going to get all this expensive stuff, why not throw them in? I'm putting in my order tomorrow to Ted for:

Full rebuild kit +
pistons, full bearing kit, oil pump, timing chain + guides,full gasket kit
Street RV head +
268c cam +
Water pump +
=
My empty wallet

Where is the best place to buy the ARP head studs? LC?

kyle_22r

i bought mine on ebay, i think i paid $107 for my head studs.

PirateFins

Click me for info on the Supra AFM swap

87TurboYota

Hey, Wildcat I wish I would have seen this post earlier I am doing the exact same thing as you right now. Getting my block honed hopefully.. The Cylinder walls are a bit colored with soot. I hope it cleans up so they don't have to bore it. I was gonna replace my cam with a 270 cam on the DOA website. But I feel ya on the cost end man.. I'm gonna be broke.. I have a ton of things I'm replacing.

Wildcat_4R

87Turbo - Yeah, this whole "gotta pay for parts" thing is a little crazy. Why can't some independent investor sponsor me? Anybody? Bueller?....... So what are you planning on replacing/rebuilding?

I think chances are pretty high that my block is going to need to be bored slightly considering the bottom end hasn't been touched in 175,000 mi., but I won't know that until this weekend when I actually have time to finish removing my motor.

87TurboYota

I have a feeling there are plenty fo people on this forum with all the parts we need.. They are just flat out greedy! Yea it's really bad the guy at the machine shop was shocked to find my truck only has 150,000 miles on it. They said she had been neglected. She was a shop truck for a local autobody dealer for much of her life. I have a lot of things to replace since my timing chain broke someone who worked on it didn't tighten down the bolts on the guides. Check my webshots to how dirty my block is.. It's been sitting in a solvent tank at the machine shop for the past two days.

Snowmax3

I just stumbled along this thread and found some information that adds to my knowledge of the 22r and must say that I appreciate it. Now I don't mean to hijack this thread but I think this is a good place for my questions. I won a master rebuild kit from Ted back in December and I haven't sent him sizes yet because I haven't had a spare moment to tear my engine out. My 22re still runs good but definately has a ping in at 157k. I was going to rebuild the short block and put a rebuilt head that only has about 8k on it to make the long block.
Now my kit is to come with everything to rebuild the block and an option for the 268C or 268T cam. From reading so far I am leaning towards the 268C for "useable" power. I'm hoping to be able to just drop in this new cam and break it in without having to replace anything but I have fears that it won't be this easy. Any opinions on this? Also is a rebuild bottom half bad to do with a semi-new head?
This will be my first rebuild and a learning experience. However I am rather mechanically inclined and pick stuff up quickly and hope to maintain my level of good patience throughout this build. Now I just need to get the engine out and find a trustworthy machine shop that won't rob me blind..

kyle_22r

i'm guessing you mean the 261C cam? as long as you're not building a race engine, i think that'd be a great improvement for driveability. the 268 is between that and the 270 cam, sort of a good all-around cam. break-in shouldn't be hard, just might be a good idea to have your rocker arms checked out for wear, they may need to be resurfaced.

i rebuilt a 22R with no prior experience and it wasn't bad at all. just take your time and you should do fine. hardest part was remembering where i put all my timing cover bolts

Snowmax3

Thanks for the tips and the correction Kyle. I did mean and option between the 261C and a 268C/T (torker). I'm wondering because Ted's auction says to use the 261 if you have bigger tires and no gears. I'm only running some 31x10.50s and I was thinking that the torker might give me some good road results as this 4runner only sees mild trail use every now and then.
My kit is supposed to come with a new timing cover so that'll have to go out with the block to get decked properly. I've heard I have several options for machine work in Virginia Beach, but could you tell me a price I would want know where to know it's ridiculous? I'm hoping on just a hone too. My gas efficiency in my 22re isn't that great right now and I think playing with compression is going to make it worse.
On a side note, I've learned after tearing a lot of stuff apart before in the Navy that bagging and tagging is a big headache saver and I'm going to drag that belief in to an engine tear down very seriously. Nothing like finishing a lot of work and having a handful of leftover bolts.

kyle_22r

i agree there, i bagged just about every bolt that i took off the engine. had i not done that, i'd still probably be putting that thing together...

Wildcat_4R

So far I've documented every little piece that has come out of my engine bay. It seems like it is going to be pretty easy to get it all put back together because of it. The machine shop that I talked to (Gary's Machine Shop in Tucson) about my block listed off the following prices: magnafluxed: $45, hone and bore: $85, decked: $60, polish crank: $25, grind and polish crank: $50, balance rods: $60.

What does balance and blueprinting entail? Is that just concerning the crankshaft and rods? Also, anyone have a recommendation for how much to bore out the cylinders. I would like to put my order in to engnbldr.com but I don't know what size pistons I should order. As well, I would just like to thank everyone who has replied to this thread adding bits of information here and there. Once I get this project done I am going to try and set up a DIY 22RE rebuild with all of the info I've collected and pics of the process so it will answer future rebuilder's questions.

Phssthpok

The simplistic explination for balancing is to weigh each assembled rod/piston combo to find the LIGHTEST one, and then remove metal from the others (generaly from a boss on the rod cap for just this purpose) to bring them all even. If they talk about spin balancing, then they will attatch weights (called bobbins I think) to your rod journals equal to the mass of your balanced rod assemblies, attach the flexplate or flywheel as applicable, and spin the crank up to a determined RPM (my machinist does 12K) and then add or remove metal from the crank counterweights as needed to eliminate harmonics.

Blueprinting is merely writing down each and every friggen final measurement, clearance, tolerance, weight, etc. on-and-or-in the engine as it is assembled.

Unless you are seeking to maximize displacement I would reccomend going with the minimum overbore neccessary to achieve true round bores. If your kit size choices are 20, 40, or 60 over, and you only need to go 10 over for round, go ahead and get 20. But there's no special gain from going to 40 or 60 over unless, as I said, you want maximize displacement.

Wildcat_4R

I guess this begs the questions: What would be the benefit of getting all of this machine work done? Would it outweigh the cost?

Phssthpok

That all depends on what you plan to use the engine for. If you were to plan on drag racing the beast, or do a lot of full throttle mudding then I would say yes, it's worth it. If you plan to use it for nothing more than a commuter car then I would say to settle for a basic balance and forego the blueprinting.

Either way, getting the reciprocating assembly balanced would be, IMHO, an absolute MINIMUM requirement. It can only add to longevity. Absolutely worth the investment.


there's an old saying that goes around regarding oil filter that seems to apply.:

Pay me now (higher cost oil filter), or pay me later (engine rebuild).

kyle_22r

my machinist told me that toyota engines are so well balanced, that having them screw with it couldn't really help. smooth as silk

Phssthpok

Of course.. once you introduce non-factory (piston) castings that legendary factory balance could be upset.

I know next to nothing about toyota engines in particular... but I DO know that when it comes to Mopar engines, the main journals are so true from the factory that line boring ( align-honing to some ) is a wasted effort.


**EDIT**

You know.. now that I think about it more.. new pistons, rings and bearing will in all likelyhood negate and factory balace Toyota put on that engine.. however good it was. you really should concider getting it balanced for longevity.

Phssthpok

Bumpity-bump... any updates?

Wildcat_4R

Well.....things have taken a back seat. A friend who has my engine hoist is in LA right now....was supposed to be back on Mon. but it doesn't look like he'll get in to tonight. So, my beautiful little 22re is still sitting in my engine bay and not at the shop.

Have any ideas on how to remove the block without the help of a nice hydrolic lift? Hopefully I can get a hold of the lift tonight so I can it out and prep it for a run to the shop on monday. I have decided I will be getting the engine balanced. A couple extra bucks should help increase the longevity of the build and at the very least, give me some piece of mind. Better do it right the first time.