I have a 96 runner and recently the rear drivers side tire has been locking up on the snow. It only does it when it is cold or where I haven't driven it in a while. We replaced the wheel cylinder and did a break flush. It seemed to be a little better but it still locks up. The only way that I have found to get the tire loose is to put it into reverse. What do you guys think I should check next?

 

Is the axle seal leaking? Are the rear brakes adjusted properly?

 

The axle seal was replaced back in August. As for the breaks being adjusted, I adjusted them to where they wern't rubbing on the drums.

 

Should be .05 to 1mm from the drum..

 

Maby your Adjuster is froze up

 

How do I know if it is .05 to 1mm from the drum?

I was driving it around for a while today and it was getting a little bit warmer then the passenger side.

 

Is this common? Should I go ahead and replace the adjuster?

 

Easy to adjust as the brakes are self adjusting actually. While going in reverse pull the emergency brake back slowly till it clicks about 15-17 times..this will automatically adjust them.

 

Thanks, I will go and give it a try and see if that does the trick.

 

Keep in mind that this "trick" didn't work for me. Mine were so far out after I changed the axle seals and shoes that I had to use the star adjuster method. Personally, I find the star adjuster method easy. Jack up the vehicle via the axle, spin a wheel, adjust the star wheel until the wheel only spins about 1/2 way around with a moderate spin. I don't know, that worked best for me.

 

To clarify this only works if the drums are close to adjustment andnot off by much, the star wheel method is what I would use if I didnthave adjusted them yet.

 

Ok I went out and tryed pulling up on the E break a few times and I think it tightened it up a little but I don't know if that is just because the breaks are warmer now then in the cold morning. So I will try it again in the morning and see if it is better.

What is this Star adjustment method that you guys are talking about?

 

See attached (FSM pdf)

 

Ok I readjusted everything. I went out and tryed it in the cold morning and it was still draging. I don't know why it only locks up when it is cold and I haven't driven it in a while. Would the breaks lock up in cold weather if they were not adjusted properely?

 

You said that you replaced the axle seal. Was it leaking? Did you replace the Lube soaked shoes? Lube soaked shoes will be more grabby on the drum.

 

I had exactly the same problem with my '98. Right rear wheel would stay locked, especially on snow/ice. After a while I found out that either the e-brake cable or lever was sticking because of rust and mud and what not in there.

 

When I had the axle seal done it was leaking at the time. I only replaced the wheel cyclinder, I left the shoes alone.

 

How did you go about fixing it on your 98?

 

There is a lever mechanism on the passenger side. It needs to freely move back and forth as the e-brake is pulled. If it gets rusted, it can cause one side to stick. Check that out. You can't miss it.

 

If the surface of the shoes is contaminated it will screw up the coefficent of friction and could cause it to lock up. Also if it is not adusted tight enough it could lock up in the cold due to to much clearance. You want the shoes to rub against the drum a little.

Think of it this way: Imagine I tied a rope around your waist and told you to run, and eventually I was going to pull the rope to make you stop. Would you want me to leave the rope slack, or pull tension on the rope?

If their is a gap between the shoe and the drum (the rope is slack) when you stop it will jerk to a stop and lock up. If their is drag (tension on the rope) it will stop smoothly. When it is really cold the metal doesn't expand as much and increases the gap between the shoe and the drum.

I would replace the shoes if they came in contact with axle or brake fluid. After that I would tighten the brakes on that wheel.